Download Panorama Crop For Instagram [EXCLUSIVE]
Manuel Medina
All you have to do is choose your image from the gallery and choose how many slides you want to separate your photos into. Users also have free reign over the aspect ratio so they can choose which one best fits their desired outcome. In case you want to post your panorama in just one photo, you can also opt to use the No Crop post option, instead.
Overall, PanoramaCrop for Instagram serves as an easy way for you to elevate your Instagram posts by allowing you to create a cohesive transition between slides, so you can post your wider images without having to crop anything or anyone out. Just make sure to edit your photos elsewhere if you want to alter any specific elements before slicing your photos in this photo editor.
Hello everyone I have been shooting film for a couple years now, been developing my own for the past few months as well. I really enjoy panorama images and while an XPan would be awesome, it's definitely out of my budget. I do very much enjoy the point and shoot cameras with panorama crop modes, yea I know it's not the same and you lose detail but I love to be able to compose with panos in the view finder.
I do have a few of those point and shoots, a Nikon litetouch zoom 110 and also a Minolta Maxxums which has a panoramic crop mode. However I am looking for a mechanical SLR with this feature if it exists. Budgetwise could be up to $200 or so, not looking to break the bank. I have not been able to find anything like this so it may not exist, it seems like the panorama crop mode didn't really get popular until the 90s. Thanks for any help!
Howdy...still learning the finer details of Affinity Photo...I'm using 1.7.2.471 on Windows...trying to post a panorama on Instagram using the multiple sequential photo technique. Danged if I can figure out the guide system for nicely creating equi-distance widths so I can crop the wide pano down into multiple images. I'm hoping there's a nice way to setup the guides on the pano, then have Affinity Photo crop down the segments into their own individual files. Lots of video tutorials for PS on how to do this, and of course I do my work in Affinity.
Sooo...thanks a bunch for the quick replies. It pointed me in the right direction...I realized that I knew zip-zero-nada about slices and export personas, and found the help video on that (link below), and was able to export 5 sequential snips of my pano to the right dimensions with the right cropping.
To share an example...remember we want to maximize IG's photo dimensions without causing a server side resizing...vertical is then 1350, never changes...max horizontal is 1080. So when cropping a wide image, first snip ends at 1080, second snip starts at 1081 and ends 1080 pixels later, third snip starts at 2162 and ends 1080 pixels later, etc.
I never used the stitcher calss, but I think that you may get the estimated homography matrix at each pair of images, if you could obtain it easily, then you can multiply it with the corners of the first original image and so for the corner of the last original one, you will get their stitched coordinate, then get the min of left and right x-coordinates and min of up and bottom y-coordinates of each images. You may get the coordinates of of each stitched image, what you need to do in some cases of cropping.
As you can see it looks much more like scaling then cropping, but there is no scaling code working in the background...and again, if I remove cropping code, it doesn't happen. What could be the solution? Is this a bug, or am I just overlooking something?
Thanks, I was able to solve this issue. There was a default crop on the plugin, with different settings, strangely it somehow influenced the crops applied later. When I synced up some values, the issue disappeared. I still don't understand clearly what happened, but at least it's working good now.
Yea, I noticed it behaved differently with various versions of krpano, and also as you can see from my previous reply, actually it was a width value issue. The width was valid btw, but somehow applying a different crop width to the default crop width caused the problem.
The key to producing a good panorama is by overlapping each of the individual images to be stitched together, by between one third and one half. This gives plenty of room for the stitching software to be able to do its job and not have a situation where one or more images prove difficult to stitch together.
However, when I bring the two videos into either VideoStitch Studio or AutoPano Video I can get the two videos synchronized and calibrated, but I cannot figure out how to crop the projection to include the region of interest. (With VideoStitch Studio I even load the Hugin .pto file; I thought this should include the crop.) The videos they produce are always a small region of the video inside a sea of black:
(The final video dimensions will be very high resolution, on the order of 6k horizontal pixels, so I'd strongly prefer not to say "Just render it extra extra big and then use After Effects to crop out the center.")
Back in the film days, there were many different aspect ratios for various formats of film (1:1, 7:6, 5:4, 4:3, 3:2, etc.), giving photographers options. Some formats like 66 were used so that the images could be cropped into various aspect ratios later in the darkroom. For example, magazines preferred the 66 square image so photo editors could decide later which way to crop the images (cover photo with vertical crop or double-page spread with horizontal crop). There were also panoramic cameras made by companies like Noblex, Horseman, Linhof, Widelux, and Fujifilm that made gigantic medium format 612 and 617 negatives.
I have a 360x180 panorama photo. I took the photo with an app (Google PhotoSphere). Unfortunately my app doesn't save the individual photos I took, only the auto stitched panorama, with the "center" of the photo of its choosing.
Currently my only option is to view the photo in panorama viewing software, and take screenshots. However, this of course limits my resolution to my monitor, and only in the projection they're presenting it in.
Once everything looks the way you want it to, save the Hugin project (.pto) file, and go to the Stitcher tab, select the file output format and size you want, and click the Stitch! button to create your new panorama.
You can crop the panorama in a photo editor like Photoshop and then import it in VT PRO. Make sure to adjust the horizon line if you cropped it in the vertical axis in the settings panel to make it look correctly. If you limit the view in the horizontal axis you need to set the right amount of degrees of the new panorama in the settings panel so it is correctly projected (no distortion).
Images should overlap by approximately 40%. If the overlapis less, Photomerge may not be able to automatically assemble the panorama.However, keep in mind that the images shouldn't overlap too much. Ifimages overlap by 70% or more, Photomerge may not be able to blendthe images. Try to keep the individual photos at least somewhatdistinct from each other.
Although Photomerge can process slight rotations betweenpictures, a tilt of more than a few degrees can result in errorswhen the panorama is assembled. Using a tripod with a rotating headhelps maintain camera alignment and viewpoint.
Aligns and transforms the images as if they were for mapping the inside of a sphere, which simulates the experience of viewing a 360-degree panorama. If you have taken a set of images that cover 360 degrees, use this for 360 degree panoramas. You might also use Spherical to produce nice panoramic results with other file sets.
Devices such as the Ricoh Theta V and Insta360One let you capture full 360 panoramic images in a single take. Alternatively, you can combine Photomerge with 3D features to create a 360-degree panorama. First, you stitch together the images to create a panorama; then you use the Spherical Panorama command to wrap the panorama so it's continuous.
BETTER CROP
If you want to print this 4x6 photo as a 20x40 print, we would only need to crop out some of the sky and grass. We don't lose any part of the family. We wouldn't be able to print it 8x36 like above as we would need to lose too much off the top and bottom. We would end up with only the parents shoulders and the top of the girl's face.
Shooting a vertical panorama with your drone will allow you to keep a maximum number of pixels inside your portrait crop. Which is ideal if you want to have the best possible quality or if you are thinking of printing your photos, to hang them on the wall for example.
Let's assume you have a landscape photograph in standard format that you wish to not only improve by eliminating un-needed detail but that you also wish to transform into a panorama format, where the picture is much wider than a normally-framed photograph. The way to do that is by cropping your image.
Cropping a print is simple. Use a ruler and a pen to mark up the print, then bring it to your photo lab with the negative and ask them to make a new print, cropped as shown. If your landscape was photographed on film, you can mark up a print or even a contact sheet using a ruler and pen (such as a Pilot Fineliner pen) to show how you would like the image to be cropped, as demonstrated in the example above. Then, it is simply a matter of having a photo lab make a new print based on your marked-up example. (Be prepared to pay a little more, since your new print will essentially be an enlargement from your negative.) In this instance, the crop lines eliminated detail that did not contribute to the image and removed unnecessary areas from the top and bottom, resulting in a panoramic format (below) for a pleasing landscape.
The resulting panorama had distracting elements removed by cropping, and still contains interesting, relevant detail.
If your image was photographed digitally, the same cropping principle applies, but you get to do the work on your computer rather than handing it off to a lab technician. (Well, that is not necessarily true; you can always ask a photo lab to crop your digital images, too, in accordance with your instructions, and to either print them for you or save them as digital images on, for example, a CD.) Cropping a digital image requires image-editing software, such as Adobe PhotoShop. Most digital cameras are supplied with an image-editing application of some kind. The program will almost certainly have a cropping tool that is easy to use. Often, the Crop tool can also be used to make sure that the image's horizon line is level, an added bonus with landscapes. (One of the common errors that novice photographers make is to shoot a landscape scene where the horizon is angled rather than level.) For information on how to crop a digital picture using the Crop tool while also ensuring that your landscape picture is level, click here.