Overlock Sewing

[Tinisha]

Whatis the Overlock Stitch?

The overlock stitch is a combination of a straight stitch and a zigzag. It sews backwards and forwards in a straight line, but between every set of straight stitches, it sews a zigzag. If done correctly, this resembles serging, which is how most store-bought clothes are sewn. Therefore, it lends a professional finish to your handmade garments.

Overlock Presser Foot

While the overlock stitch can be sewn with a standard zigzag presser foot, it works best in conjunction with an overlock or overcast foot, which is specifically designed for this stitch.

Great instructions! Thank you. I do not have an overlock stitch choice on my machine (mine is a Singer 237 Fashionmate). Can I still do this on my current machine-sort of, with the special foot?

Thanks! Just found your site. I am just new to sewing and trying to learn.

The secret is the presser foot. I have an old and very basic machine and found a shell tuck stitch that resembled the overlock stitches but missing the back stitches. After experimenting with the overlocking presser foot, I discovered you can make even a plain zigzag finish look very nice. Just be careful and use the hand wheel for the first couple of stitches to make sure your needle is missing the center bar of the presser foot. My narrowest zigzag stitch hits the bar.

Using my new overlock foot for the first time, I was experimenting on different zigzags to use. Thankfully, I came across your site which gave me the answer. I would never have thought to use this stitch otherwise. Many thanks for your help.

An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through (such machines being called sergers in North America), though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.

Overlock sewing machines usually run at high speeds, from 1000 to 9000 rpm, and most are used in industry for edging, hemming and seaming a variety of fabrics and products. Overlock stitches are extremely versatile, as they can be used for decoration, reinforcement, or construction.

J. Makens Merrow and his son Joseph Merrow, who owned a knitting mill established in Connecticut in 1838, developed a number of technological advancements to be used in the mill's operations. Merrow's first patent was a machine for crochet stitching, and the Merrow Machine Company still produces crochet machines based on this original model. This technology was a starting point for the development of the overlock machine, patented by Joseph Merrow in 1889. Unlike standard lockstitching, which uses a bobbin, overlock sewing machines utilize loopers to create thread loops for the needle to pass through, in a manner similar to crocheting. Merrow's original three-thread overedge sewing machine is the forerunner of contemporary overlocking machines. Over time, the Merrow Machine Company pioneered the design of new machines to create a variety of overlock stitches, such as two- and four-thread machines, the one-thread butted seam, and the cutterless emblem edger.

A landmark lawsuit between Willcox & Gibbs and the Merrow Machine Company in 1905 established the ownership and rights to the early mechanical development of overlocking to the Merrow Machine Company.

Throughout the early 20th Century, the areas of Connecticut, US and New York, US were the centres of textile manufacturing and machine production. Consequently, many overlock machine companies established themselves in the Northeastern United States.

In 1964 several engineers and managers at one Japanese manufacturer[which?] redesigned the industrial serger they were currently manufacturing as a smaller, lighter model intended for home use. They presented their concept to their employer, and after it was rejected they quit and formed the Juki Corporation.

Nick Tacony, founder of Tacony Corporation, introduced machinery for producing the overlock stitch (so called "baby lock") to the United States market. This allowed sewing enthusiasts to produce clothing with finishing seams like those made by industrial garment manufacturers.[1]

Overlock stitches are classified in a number of ways. The most basic classification is by the number of threads used in the stitch. Industrial overlock machines are generally made in 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 thread formations. Each of these formations has unique uses and benefits:

Additional variables in the types of overlock stitches are the stitch eccentric, and the stitch width. The stitch eccentric indicates how many stitches per inch there are, which is adjustable and can vary widely within one machine. Different stitch eccentrics create more or less dense and solid-looking edges. The stitch width indicates how wide the stitch is from the edge of the fabric. Lightweight fabrics often require a wider stitch to prevent pulling.

Adding extra variation in stitch types is the differential feed feature, which allows feed to be adjusted; extra-fast feed creates a ruffled or "lettuce-leaf" effect. Finally, some merrowing machines contain parts to roll the fabric edge into the stitch for added durability.

A 4-thread overlock stitch is sewn with two needle threads which essentially sews two rows of stitching in your fabric while the looper threads wrap the edge. This stitch is best used on medium to heavy weight fabrics or on seams that see a bit of stress, such as on fitted garments. When you need flexibility in a seam, as well as durability, the 4-thread overlock is your best bet.

An overlock stitch, regardless of the number of threads you employ, is a great stitch for construction and general edge finishing. You can use this stitch to completely construct a garment and finish the edges simultaneously but you could use it in tandem with your domestic sewing machine. Some seams or fabrics benefit from being pressed open after being sewn in order to reduce bulk. In these cases, overlocking raw edges before construction may be the best bet.

There may be patterns that require extra attention to fit and detail where you prefer to baste seams before committing to a particular fit. In these cases, you may want to construct on the sewing machine before finishing edges on the overlocker.

Needle thread issues can be identified a few different ways. If looper threads can be seen from the front side at the point where the needle is penetrating through the fabric, your needle threads are probably too tight. On this sample, you can see little red dots where our lower looper thread is being pulled too tightly.

Alternatively, if your needle tensions are too loose, those threads will no longer appear as a clean, straight line of stitching. The looper threads will pull needle threads toward the seam allowance, which can be seen on both the front and back side of the fabric.

When needle threads get extremely too loose, it can even cause looping on the front and/or back side of the fabric. On this sample, you can see the little loops of green thread, meaning our right needle is too loose.

Last is tunneling. If your seam allowance is just pulled too tight (or conversely, if both looper threads are hanging loosely off the edge of the fabric), we need to adjust Micro Thread Control, or mtc. This is a lever that controls the stitch finger, a small metal piece that sits under the fabric at the needle area that supports the fabric at the point where looper threads are wrapping the raw edge.

Increasing the mtc (MicroThread Tension) will move the stitch finger out, creating more room between the fabric and the threads and thus reducing tension that results in tunneling. Conversely, reducing mtc moves the stitch finger in, bringing threads closer to the raw edge and eliminates looping.

As hobbies often go I have found myself getting deeper into leathercraft and started branching off into making waxed canvas bags with leather handles. That being said I picked up a Consew 206rb-5 as reccommended on this site and I absolutely love this machine! I am now on the hunt to find a Overlock/Serger that can go over the edge of 15oz waxed canvas doubled up. I find the amount of models and spec dizzying and I am hoping I can rely on your wisdom to point me in the right direction. These machine also get quite expensive but I know it will be worth it since it is frustrating trying to use a home serger for this application and is close to impossible. I am open to refurbished models since that would bring the cost down, and hope to keep it in the $1000 range if possible. Thank you for your help. If you know other resources that could help me I would greatly appreciate it.

Look out for a used Juki 4 thread, 2 needle MO series serger with a half horsepower motor. Or, contact Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines (see ad banners at top) and ask what they have in stock. For sure, Keystone Sewing and Techsew will have some for sale.

New 2 needle, 4 thread overlock machines, setup on tables with good motors, run from about $2000 and up. You'll want one with a wide throw to encompass all that material. The motor should be at least 1/2 horsepower.

I am no expert but I have a little experience to offer. Last year I was acquiring some machines and picked up a Juki MO-6714s that still had the factory sew-off fabric under the foot. The owner never turned the machine on since new. The problem was it was stored badly and had surface rust on some critical areas. I got it cheap, $600. I spent some time removing some parts and de-rusting them. I bought a new upper and lower looper and finger guide. It ended up being a perfect new machine.

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