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Hardwood "ragging" through thicknesser

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MikeG

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Mar 12, 2011, 2:49:48 AM3/12/11
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Hi, I hope you are all well

We use Sapele (2") to make doors but are experiencing this problem
when feeding it through the thicknesser.

http://www.mgarner.co.uk/IMG_3604.jpg

http://www.mgarner.co.uk/IMG_3600.jpg

As can be seen from the photos, it's not across the whole piece (5"),
or the whole length - it's just in patches.

This happens regardless of:
the state of the blades
the feed speed.
the amount we take off at each pass

We recently tried Utile but had the same result.

Any ideas please?

George W Frost

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Mar 12, 2011, 3:42:12 AM3/12/11
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"MikeG" <from...@supply.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ln8mn6di24vmt19c2...@4ax.com...

I would be inclined to feed it in the other direction and see what happens
there


Tim W

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Mar 12, 2011, 6:57:27 AM3/12/11
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"MikeG" <from...@supply.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ln8mn6di24vmt19c2...@4ax.com...


That's because it's sapele. Not much help to you, I know. The interlocking
grain is a feature of the timber - that's what gives it the attractive
stripe - caused by the growth in a helix instead of straight up the trunk,
first clockwise, then anti-clockwise so that it is very hard to machine it
without tearing. Whichever way you plane it it is always against some of the
grain.

If you can't get an acceptable result by very sharp blades and very slight
cuts which you have already tried then you are left with sawing, scraping
and sanding or using another timber. A good finisher can sometimes do
something to fill the grain. Good luck.

Tim W


RonB

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Mar 12, 2011, 8:42:39 AM3/12/11
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I get that with figured walnut or maple on occasion. As George
suggested running in opposite direction might help. you might also
try dampening the area (lightly) with water on a damp rag before
feeding. You will end up with a little sanding but it might lessen
tearing the problem.

RonB

Doug Miller

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Mar 12, 2011, 8:53:29 AM3/12/11
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Well, as Tim said, that's a characteristic of the wood, caused by interlocking
grain. You might try any or all of the following:
- make sure your cutting knives are razor-sharp (DAGS for "Scary Sharp")
- take *very* light cuts ( < 0.005" at a time )
- skew the boards so the cuts are not perpendicular to the long axis
- failing the above, use a thickness sander instead of a thickness planer

Leon

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Mar 12, 2011, 9:05:58 AM3/12/11
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"MikeG" <from...@supply.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ln8mn6di24vmt19c2...@4ax.com...


Try spraying a mist of water on the surface before sending it to the planer,
soften the wood fibers.


dpb

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Mar 12, 2011, 9:32:55 AM3/12/11
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On 3/12/2011 1:49 AM, MikeG wrote:
> Hi, I hope you are all well
>
> We use Sapele (2") to make doors but are experiencing this problem
> when feeding it through the thicknesser.

...[tearout seemingly random]...

> Any ideas please?

In addition to Tim and Doug a planer w/ helical knives cutter head may
help although the thicknessing sander is undoubtedly the most practical
solution for production work.

--

Lew Hodgett

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Mar 12, 2011, 11:05:56 AM3/12/11
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"MikeG" wrote:

-----------------------------------
Leave about 1/32" proud on final thicknesser pass, then bring to final
size with a drum sander.

Lew

BobS

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Mar 16, 2011, 11:14:07 PM3/16/11
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"MikeG" wrote in message news:ln8mn6di24vmt19c2...@4ax.com...

http://www.mgarner.co.uk/IMG_3604.jpg

http://www.mgarner.co.uk/IMG_3600.jpg

Any ideas please?

Mike,

1. Inexpensive way: Dampen the surface with water so the whole surface is
damp (no need for it to be soaking wet) and let it rest for a minute before
running thru the planer.

2. Not so inexpensive way: Get a drum sander
http://www.jettools.com/us/manufacturing/en/products.html?node=4647&category=7316

I have the 16/32 and it is the way to go when you're working with squirrely
grain. Leave about 1/16" on each side when you come off the planer and then
run it thru the drum sander for finishing.

Bob S.


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