Hot Glue Sticks to replace rawlplugs
Elliott Cowton
Donkey's years ago when I bought my B&D Hot Glue Gun the instruction
manual said that it was possible to buy a type of glue stick that was
suitable as a replacement for Rawlplugs.
I suddenly find that I need to put some rawlplugs into a random stone
wall where the mortar tends to crumble when drilled with an ordinary
drill. I would love to get hold of some of these glue sticks as they
would seem the answer to all my prayers, however B&D seem to have
stopped making them and none of the vendors/web searches I have tried
have turned up a positive result.
I have been offered a tube of something for my caulking gun that costs
around £15 for a small tube but that seems a terrible waste for just 5
or 6 holes to be plugged.
Another suggestion I have been given is to use No More Nails in the
hole and coat the screw with WD40; I am told that when the NMN sets I
should be able to unscrew the screw, fit the "bit to be held" onto it
and re-screw it.
Questions:
1. Anyone had practical experience with using NMN/WD40 in this way?
2. Anyone know where I might get the these glue sticks as they
really seem like the best option?
TIA
Elliott
I am on the look out for some ho
BigWallop
"Elliott Cowton" <elliott...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:7T7Ca.16631$sJ4....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
Why are you drilling into the mortar and not the stonework itself ?
If you must go in to the mortar, then why not take a big six inch nail and
hammer it in to the mortar to the depth you need for an ordinary plastic
wall plug.
No more nails for an exterior, I take it's exterior, job is OK, but not
recommended as long exposure to weathering makes it crumble.
As for hot gun glue sticks which replace wall plugs, I personally haven't
heard of it.
My advice is, get a decent hammer action drill with a good masonry bit to
the size you need, and do the job properly.
BigWallop
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Elliott Cowton
"BigWallop" <spamguard@_spam_guard_.com> wrote in message
news:V98Ca.2271$BD1.14...@news-text.cableinet.net...
>
> Why are you drilling into the mortar and not the stonework itself ?
>
Its a Purbeck stone cottage, its an interior random stone wall that
has been rendered so I have no idea where the stone is and where the
mortar is under the rendering unless I strip the entire wall, fit the
screws and then re-plaster. A local builder described this particular
row of cottages as being built of quarry waste in around 1650 - small
lumps of stone mortared together and then rendered on both sides with
a plaster made up of unwashed sand from the local beaches.
The rendering I am working on probably dates from around 1850 so is
none to good if you let a hammer action drill loose on it and the
stone is very prone to destroy drill bits - I know, this is the second
time I have had to renovate this particular cottage in the last twenty
years. To give you an idea of how hard the stone is, I have also
pretty much destroyed a bolster chisel trying to cut a chanel for a
water pipe elsewhere in the property, and I do know how to use a
bolster chisel properly.
> If you must go in to the mortar, then why not take a big six inch
nail and
> hammer it in to the mortar to the depth you need for an ordinary
plastic
> wall plug.
Not an option as that pretty well destroys the rendering as well - I
know, I've tried. Also, in places the rendering is not deep enough to
take a long rawlplug.
>
> No more nails for an exterior, I take it's exterior, job is OK, but
not
> recommended as long exposure to weathering makes it crumble.
>
Interior - shower room - need to hold up the shower unit and the
shower head - new ones would not fit on old holes.
> As for hot gun glue sticks which replace wall plugs, I personally
haven't
> heard of it.
>
Trust me, they did exist - B&D themselves have told me this week that
they stopped doing them around a couple of years ago because they were
accessories and not "core business", but that they felt that I should
be able to get them from a supplier somewhere.
>
> My advice is, get a decent hammer action drill with a good masonry
bit to
> the size you need, and do the job properly.
>
Been there, done that, own the marketing rights for the tee-shirts...
:-)
This is a well known problem in the area, and the local builders
merchants keep the tubes of the caulk I described in the original post
on the shelf (in most other places I am told they tend to be a special
order). The problem is that, as I said, £15 is a lot of cash for 5 or
6 holes and apparently the stuff has a life of about a month once it
is opened (so I won't be able to keep it until the next time I need
it), thus hot melt glue for my 100W gun seems like a very attractive
alternative if I can find some.
Elliott
Cicero
Have a look at: www.screwfix.com They sell polyester resin fixing @ £5.35p
which might suit your purpose. Watch out for the delivery charge which might
make it not worthwhile you're only ordering one item. You might find a
similar product closer to home.
Alternatively, since you seem to have no choice but to go into the mortar,
try using the old-fashioned method of wooden wedges or pegs. Drive them in
firmly and screw into them.
Cic.
BigWallop
> news:JB8Ca.16660$sJ4....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
> >
Try here Elliot:
http://www.acefixings.com/new_page_5.htm
Have a look at the Heller Plus and Max Drill Bits. They are meant for hard
granite and other natural hard stone.
They shanks are meant for an SDS chuck grip, but they should be able to fit
a standard 10 mm chuck.
It's the best I can come up with just now.
AWM
> Hi All
>
> Donkey's years ago when I bought my B&D Hot Glue Gun the instruction
> manual said that it was possible to buy a type of glue stick that was
> suitable as a replacement for Rawlplugs.
>
A good trick is to grout the raw plugs in with "No More Nails" -- works a
treat
Howard Neil
> has been rendered so I have no idea where the stone is and where the
> mortar is under the rendering unless I strip the entire wall, fit the
> screws and then re-plaster. A local builder described this particular
> row of cottages as being built of quarry waste in around 1650 - small
> lumps of stone mortared together and then rendered on both sides with
> a plaster made up of unwashed sand from the local beaches.
>
> The rendering I am working on probably dates from around 1850 so is
> none to good if you let a hammer action drill loose on it and the
> stone is very prone to destroy drill bits - I know, this is the second
> time I have had to renovate this particular cottage in the last twenty
> years. To give you an idea of how hard the stone is, I have also
> pretty much destroyed a bolster chisel trying to cut a chanel for a
> water pipe elsewhere in the property, and I do know how to use a
> bolster chisel properly.
I have a similar problem with my house. My answer is to use an SDS drill for
when you hit stone. I use an undersized bit in case I hit mortar (enlarging
the hole to correct size if I hit stone). I then use Universal Plugs from
Screwfix ( http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=59386&id=79361
shows the 6x35 size but there are a couple of other sizes). These will
hammer into the undersized hole to give a tight fit in the mortar.
If the hole is in mortar, I use a screw that is longer than the plug. This
plug then deforms sideways and provides some grip in mortar. For this to
work properly I find I need to use the Screwfix TurboGold screws as lesser
screws seem to grip the plug and twist it, ruining the expansion effect.
Then it all depends on the whether the mortar is strong enough to take the
weight of the item being fixed.
There are two there methods that have been suggested to me but I have yet to
need to try either. They are:
1. Dig out an area of mortar between the stone and replace it with cement.
This can then be drilled and plugged as normal.
2. Drill a number of holes until you have sufficient in stone for your
needs. Plug these and screw timber to the wall, covering the mess left by
the holes in the mortar. Fix the item that you wish to install to the
timber.
Both of these methods are a bit drastic and, so far, the Universal Plugs
have worked for me.
Howard Neil
BobS
BobS
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Reply without question to cheznous2?@tiscali.fr
"AWM" <not...@nowhere.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:bbc7v9$6u9$1...@hercules.btinternet.com...
Elliott Cowton
"Cicero" <s?e?d*a?*@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pR8Ca.2313$dZ1.14...@news-text.cableinet.net...
>
>
> Alternatively, since you seem to have no choice but to go into the
mortar,
> try using the old-fashioned method of wooden wedges or pegs. Drive
them in
> firmly and screw into them.
>
There's a marvellous bit in one of the early hitch hiker's guide to
the galaxy books where the super computer has just suggested to the
two philosophers that if they play their cards right they could make a
killing as pundits on the chat show circuit. One turns to the other
and asks "Why didn't we think of that?" The other replies - "dunno,
maybe our brains are too highly trained".
Cicero, what a staggeringly simple idea, why didn't I think of that?
Thanks to everyone else who contributed ideas.
Elliott
Who is off to practise cutting small wedges.
Cicero
Glad to be able to help.
Cic.
Bill
> Hi All
>
> Donkey's years ago when I bought my B&D Hot Glue Gun the instruction
> manual said that it was possible to buy a type of glue stick that was
> suitable as a replacement for Rawlplugs.
>
> I suddenly find that I need to put some rawlplugs into a random stone
> wall where the mortar tends to crumble when drilled with an ordinary
> drill. I would love to get hold of some of these glue sticks as they
> would seem the answer to all my prayers, however B&D seem to have
> stopped making them and none of the vendors/web searches I have tried
> have turned up a positive result.
These are pads (epoxy?) esp for difficult holes. Packs were £1.99 for 10 (or
20?) pads.
Meant to pick some up to try as I'm always getting this problem in
daughter's victorian solid walls.