At the point where it joins the walls, it seems that the flashing (if that's
what it's called - a wide strip of sticky looking black tape) is failing.
Q1 - what's the best, and safest way to get onto that conservatory? I cannot
see any fixings into the walls (but they may, I guess, be covered by the
existing flashing). I know I'll need to use some system of crawl boards, but
I'm petrified that my 15st will come crashing through.
Q2 - what's my options for re-sealing these edges? Obviously the old stuff
will need to come off. Will it come away cleanly, or need burning off or
something? Is there anything better than this 'tape' that I can use to
re-seal it following removal?
Cheers
JW
You may need scaffolding, if you want to do it safely.
>
> Q2 - what's my options for re-sealing these edges? Obviously the old
> stuff will need to come off. Will it come away cleanly, or need burning
> off or something? Is there anything better than this 'tape' that I can
> use to re-seal it following removal?
>
> Cheers
>
> JW
The 'tape' as you call it is ideal unless you want to go to the effort
of cutting lead flashing into the pointing. I did some 15 years ago and
it's still like new. I would have thought that re-applying the sealing
mastic on top of the old (having removed as much as possible) would work OK.
Rob Graham
"Rob Graham" <rttg...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:qKadnSrW-YV9UI_W...@bt.com...
Thanks Rob. Given the rain we've had today, I've decided I'll get a pro to
do it - and quickly. If they go through the conservatory, then I'll be after
their insurer! ;-)
I will see what the different estimates are for mastic vs. lead. I've
actually found the original construction booklet that the previous owner
left us, and it shows lead flashing being used.
Cheers
JW
================================================
The sticky tape ('Evostik Flashband' or possibly an own brand version from
Wickes etc.) is usually quite effective especially when used in
conjunction with the correct primer. However its success depends on the
soundness of the mortar joints. If the mortar is crumbly rain water can
travel through the mortar behind the Flashband. If this is likely to
happen (test the mortar in a few places) then you'll make a much better
job using more conventional lead flashing cut into the wall by about 1".
Cic.
--
=================================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
=================================================
"Cicero" <shel...@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2009.11.29....@hellfire.co.uk...
>
> The sticky tape ('Evostik Flashband' or possibly an own brand version from
> Wickes etc.) is usually quite effective especially when used in
> conjunction with the correct primer. However its success depends on the
> soundness of the mortar joints. If the mortar is crumbly rain water can
> travel through the mortar behind the Flashband. If this is likely to
> happen (test the mortar in a few places) then you'll make a much better
> job using more conventional lead flashing cut into the wall by about 1".
Ah - thanks. That sounds like exactly what has happened. I have noticed that
the mortar is very crumbly throughout most of the garage.
Do you have any idea what I should be expecting to pay for that to be done
by a pro? About 6 metres of flashing to be done.
Cheers
JW
================================================
Sorry, I have no idea of price (I'm not a professional - just DIY) but I
think it could be quite expensive if it needs scaffolding, although many
pros will work off *safe* crawler boards.
I think it would be worth hiring or buying a small access tower and doing
the job yourself in stages.
"Cicero" <shel...@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2009.11.29....@hellfire.co.uk...
>
> Sorry, I have no idea of price (I'm not a professional - just DIY) but I
> think it could be quite expensive if it needs scaffolding
I think it just needs a strut of some sort inside, to give extra stability
to the overhead timbers.
================================================
If you're happy with that kind of arrangement 'Acrow' building props
would give very adequate support (with load spreaders on top) but you
would need to ensure that they couldn't fall over. They're quite cheap to
hire and frequently crop up for sale second hand. Plan this carefully -
falling through a glass roof could be painful!
"Cicero" <shel...@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
news:pan.2009.11.29....@hellfire.co.uk...
> On Sun, 29 Nov 2009 21:29:06 +0000, John Whitworth wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> "Cicero" <shel...@hellfire.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2009.11.29....@hellfire.co.uk...
>>>
>>> Sorry, I have no idea of price (I'm not a professional - just DIY) but I
>>> think it could be quite expensive if it needs scaffolding
>>
>> I think it just needs a strut of some sort inside, to give extra
>> stability
>> to the overhead timbers.
>
> ================================================
>
> If you're happy with that kind of arrangement 'Acrow' building props
> would give very adequate support (with load spreaders on top) but you
> would need to ensure that they couldn't fall over. They're quite cheap to
> hire and frequently crop up for sale second hand. Plan this carefully -
> falling through a glass roof could be painful!
>
> Cic.
Great - thanks - I'll look into those.
It's a [very noisy] polycarbonate roof - but the ground still hurts when
being reunited to it! ;-)
John