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Mortice lock stiff to turn.

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Mal Travers

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Apr 23, 2011, 1:27:34 PM4/23/11
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Our mortice lock has gone from slightly stiff to turn to fairly stiff to
turn over the last week. Any suggestions or should it be replaced?
Mal

ARWadsworth

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Apr 23, 2011, 2:24:00 PM4/23/11
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WD40?
--
Adam


Mal Travers

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Apr 23, 2011, 4:24:31 PM4/23/11
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I wanted to be sure that it is OK to use.
It is a relatively new door as all in our building were replaced as part
of seemingly never ending Fire Precautions.
Derek

ARWadsworth

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Apr 23, 2011, 4:34:57 PM4/23/11
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Is it your door or a landlords door?

As it is a new door then WD40 will NOT help. Get the installers back in to
fix it ASAP.

--
Adam


Mal Travers

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Apr 23, 2011, 6:15:28 PM4/23/11
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On 23/04/2011 21:34, ARWadsworth wrote:
> Mal Travers<maltr...@hilltop.com> wrote:
>> On 23/04/2011 19:24, ARWadsworth wrote:
>>> Mal Travers<maltr...@hilltop.com> wrote:
>>>> Our mortice lock has gone from slightly stiff to turn to fairly
>>>> stiff to turn over the last week. Any suggestions or should it be
>>>> replaced? Mal
>>>
>>>
>>> WD40?
>> I wanted to be sure that it is OK to use.
>> It is a relatively new door as all in our building were replaced as
>> part of seemingly never ending Fire Precautions.
>> Derek
>
> Is it your door or a landlords door?
>
> As it is a new door then WD40 will NOT help. Get the installers back in to
> fix it ASAP.
>
Our door. Relatively new as in the last five years.
Derek

Woody

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Apr 24, 2011, 3:20:08 AM4/24/11
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"Mal Travers" <maltr...@hilltop.com> wrote in message
news:3cIsp.20$2z7...@newsfe15.ams2...


Remove the lock, take off the cover, and very carefully remove
the levers keeping them very strictly in order. Wipe each lever
clean then coat lightly either with specific graphite grease for
locks or with Waxoyl. Reassemble spreading a little more
grease/Waxoyl on the bolt and its slide (may need to be done
whilst the levers are out of the way.) Should fix the problem
indefinitely.

I suppose you will now tell us that this is a 'continental' style
lock that uses a Yale-type rather than a Chubb-type key? If so
then remove the barrel (usually by removing one screw in the edge
of the door and sliding out,) hold it vertical and squirt it with
a Teflon based lubricant. Exercise the cylinder whilst it is
still wet, then when all of the excess lubricant has run out
replace the barrel in the door.

I have no doubt that I will now be seriously flamed, but I have
used these techniques for years and have never had a lock cause
any problem as a result.


--
Woody

harrogate three at ntlworld dot com


Mal Travers

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Apr 24, 2011, 4:12:25 AM4/24/11
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I had assumed that there would be a special product to use.

> I suppose you will now tell us that this is a 'continental' style
> lock that uses a Yale-type rather than a Chubb-type key? If so
> then remove the barrel (usually by removing one screw in the edge
> of the door and sliding out,) hold it vertical and squirt it with
> a Teflon based lubricant. Exercise the cylinder whilst it is
> still wet, then when all of the excess lubricant has run out
> replace the barrel in the door.

It has a chubb key.


>
> I have no doubt that I will now be seriously flamed, but I have
> used these techniques for years and have never had a lock cause
> any problem as a result.

I await their comments:-)
If I conduct a search of all my junk I may even find a mortice lock that
I changed in our last flat.
Derek

Harry Stottle

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Apr 24, 2011, 4:59:48 AM4/24/11
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"Mal Travers" <maltr...@hilltop.com> wrote in message
news:9_Dsp.48662$Hl6....@newsfe23.ams2...

> Our mortice lock has gone from slightly stiff to turn to fairly stiff to
> turn over the last week. Any suggestions or should it be replaced?
> Mal
>

If the door is exposed to strong sunshine, and with it happening over the
last week, it might be that the heat is expanding the door, and causing a
bit of misalignment of the lock.

fred

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Apr 24, 2011, 5:16:44 AM4/24/11
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In article <JXQsp.6151$6W....@newsfe21.ams2>, Mal Travers
<maltr...@hilltop.com> writes

>On 24/04/2011 08:20, Woody wrote:

You haven't said whether this still applies when the door is open? If so
then definitely open the lock up and take a look for binding or lack of
lube (rare IME). As it's a lever lock mentioned below, these are
exceptionally easy to remove and dismantle with usually a single screw
holding on the backplate. If not then look for something constricting
the bolt action, your door may have moved/warped with the recent change
to better weather.


>>
>> Remove the lock, take off the cover, and very carefully remove
>> the levers keeping them very strictly in order. Wipe each lever
>> clean then coat lightly either with specific graphite grease for
>> locks or with Waxoyl. Reassemble spreading a little more
>> grease/Waxoyl on the bolt and its slide (may need to be done
>> whilst the levers are out of the way.) Should fix the problem
>> indefinitely.
>>
>I had assumed that there would be a special product to use.
>

I've never heard of waxoyl being used, novel. I've never used a specific
grease on lever type locks, in facts IME it's rare to need to add more,
if the moving surfaces are in need of lube then there's usually enough
displaced around the case to re-use. For a from scratch rebuild I use a
molybdenum based grease but that's just because I have it around, it is
the right consistency and it doesn't go off in air.

>> I suppose you will now tell us that this is a 'continental' style
>> lock that uses a Yale-type rather than a Chubb-type key? If so
>> then remove the barrel (usually by removing one screw in the edge
>> of the door and sliding out,) hold it vertical and squirt it with
>> a Teflon based lubricant. Exercise the cylinder whilst it is
>> still wet, then when all of the excess lubricant has run out
>> replace the barrel in the door.
>

Agreed on teflon lube for cylinders, I wouldn't use WD40 unless to wash
some other gummed up lube out of the pins. Blown graphite often sold for
the purpose is bad too as it can set like concrete is washed through it.

>If I conduct a search of all my junk I may even find a mortice lock that
>I changed in our last flat.

Maybe practice the dismantling on that one if you're concerned with
losing bits.

Good luck.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's bollocks

fred

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Apr 24, 2011, 5:34:29 AM4/24/11
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In article <QVL0ZyM8p+sNFwta@y.z>, fred <n...@for.mail> writes

>Agreed on teflon lube for cylinders, I wouldn't use WD40 unless to wash
>some other gummed up lube out of the pins. Blown graphite often sold for
>the purpose is bad too as it can set like concrete is washed through it.
>
And now for the answer to the missing words round, the answer is:

. . . if solvent . . . .

Mal Travers

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Apr 24, 2011, 5:44:09 AM4/24/11
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No we have a Flat.
Derek

Andy Champ

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Apr 24, 2011, 3:08:30 PM4/24/11
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On 23/04/2011 19:24, ARWadsworth wrote:

... will dry out to a nice, sticky, water-dispersant film (hence the
name) which will make the lock even worse than it is now.

It's not a good long-term lubricant.

Andy

Mentalguy2k8

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Apr 24, 2011, 4:49:24 PM4/24/11
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"Mal Travers" <maltr...@hilltop.com> wrote in message
news:IhSsp.37191$2W5....@newsfe16.ams2...

It could still be heat, my back door has 4 metal bolts that throw across
into the metal frame when you pull the handle up to lock it, and it always
gets stiff at this time of the year when the bolts and the frame expand.
It's not in direct sunlight, but the ambient temperature is high enough to
expand the parts. It's quite a precise adjustment, so even a small rise in
the temp can throw it out enough to be stiff. It fits like a charm in
Winter, I assume it was fitted and adjusted on a cold day!

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