Breaking into a ring main
bob
I'm putting in a new double socket and just below where the socket will be
is a 2.5mm ring main cable. I want to just cut this and put the new socket
in the run. My problem is if I cut the cable say 6 inches along and this
will then wire into the socket, the other end of the ring main cable will be
short. IS it OK to put one of those plastic 32A screw connectors to
lengthen the ring main cable and bury this in the wall?
Thanks to anybody who replies,
Bob.
Dark Angel
Yes - you can use a connector block to bring together the ring main,
however, not sure about buying in the wall. Will you have access later? I
know it probably sounds a bit paranormal but over a prolonged period, the
screws in a connector block do untighten themselves because of the
electricity surges going thru' the mains. Sounds daft, but true! Would it
be possible but the terminal block in a blanked off socket installed just
for that job?
ARWadsworth
"bob" <b...@adplan.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ba8lq6$nqh$1...@hercules.btinternet.com...
floorboards. Why not use two 30 amp junction boxes under the boards to
extend the ring so you do not need to put a box inside the wall (which is
not a good idea). Or use just one junction box and make the new socket a
spur.
Adam
Ray
thus: use the existing cable to connect to the new socket and an additional
piece of cable from there to original socket. Only a few pence more than
plastic connector and polyfilla to cover it up, an awful lot safer though.
Ray
Dark Angel
>buying in the wall. <snip>
Of course, I meant to the burying!!
Dudley
What's wrong in using a connector block - that's exactly what they're
designed to do, I thought.
Ray
electrical conections must be made in a fire and damp proof container -
plastic/galvanised. In all sensible reasoning the risk of fire is minimal
thus we are left with damp. In the worst case of rising damp there is
obviously a danger. In a normal room enviroment plaster is designed to
breathe, ie take in moisture from the the room and transfer it to
underlining brick or wood work hence damp/moisture will in time make the
surrounding area live. I'm not scare mongering by saying that because the
risk of shock is low, but there especially for toddlers with sticky wet
fingers, however from painfull experience it can cause mccb's to
intermittently trip out because some current trickles down to earth - try
finding a connector in a wall. And the main point I was trying to get
across which I'm sure you will agree with is in a lot of cases to do the job
right often takes only a little more effort, but can save a lot time in the
future.
Ray
Dudley
OK - point understood! I thought there was a fatal design flaw in using
terminal blocks that's all! I just got a bit concerned because I've used
one in my recent kitchen refit to add in an extra socket on to the ring
main.
Terry Dutson
"Dudley" <use4...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:yjRxa.7415$sJ4....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
junction boxe(s) if possible, The use of connector blocks is not permitted
under current wiring regulations. The risk is small, but it could cause a
fire. If you really need to use connectors, have a look at:
http://www.wt-henley.com/downloads/pdf/Connector_Boxes_web.pdf
What I do find very disturbing is the suggestion of screws untightening in
connector blocks due to electricity surges (see previous thread from Dark
Angel). I have in fact experienced this in 13A plugs and so I now regularly
make inspections on all my household appliances. I always thought that this
was due simply to movement, i.e. constant plugging & unplugging. But what
about all the hundreds of electrical screw fixings throughout every house in
all the sockets and junction boxes? Should we be using threadlock?
Terry Dutson
Drakanthus
> connector blocks due to electricity surges (see previous thread from Dark
> Angel).
>
>
I wonder if the loosening is down to surges or simply the 50Hz hum gently
but persistently vibrating the screws?
--
Drakanthus.
draka...@hotmail.com
(Spam filter: Include the word VB anywhere in the subject line or emails
will never reach me.)
Terry Dutson
"Drakanthus" <Draka...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rPSxa.7500$sJ4....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
Seems a very plausible theory to me and well worthy of investigation, but
why do the screws on my spectacles keep coming loose? I've never connected
them to the mains to my knowledge! By the way, I don't know "50HZ", but if
you hum it, I'll play it for you! (I've heard of 10CC and AC/DC, but that's
a different story).
Terry
Chris Oates
"Terry Dutson" <terry....@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:E%Rxa.7741$Mu3.1...@newsfep4-glfd.server.ntli.net...
> > What's wrong in using a connector block - that's exactly what they're
> > designed to do, I thought.
> >
> I would advise that you follow the advice in the previous mails and use
30A
> junction boxe(s) if possible,
>The use of connector blocks is not permitted
> under current wiring regulations.
Could you point me to the relevant paragraph.
A lot of devices might need re-designing ;)
Chris
Chris Oates
"Drakanthus" <Draka...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rPSxa.7500$sJ4....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
in
> > connector blocks due to electricity surges (see previous thread from
Dark
> > Angel).
> > Terry Dutson
> >
> >
>
> I wonder if the loosening is down to surges or simply the 50Hz hum gently
> but persistently vibrating the screws?
Thermal cycling
Chris
Paul Saunders
down, like most materials, it relaxes. Even going back after a couple of
days you would be able to tighten them down further when applying the same
torque as the first time.
As regards lengthening the cable you could use insulated butt splice crimp
terminals with a piece of heatshrink over the top for added protection. If
you do this though, I would recommend that you use a proper ratchet crimp
tool. The colours are red, blue and yellow for different wire gauges, blue
being the one for 2.5mm cable. Needles to say, the earth cable should be
suitably sleeved along its full length.