Gas Fire Flue in Attic - British gas did smoke test and it appeared leak
Andrew
As my subject suggests I appear to have a leak in my flue located in the
attic feeding up to the roof.
British Gas suggested replacing the pipework. However, can anyone provide
a view on using High Temperature sealant (max 350 C.) and aluminium tape.
Is it legal?
When completed I am planning to bring in Corgi registered gas man to
service and test fire.
--
A
Bob Minchin
of the leak.
If there is a crack in flue pipe then the sealant will crack again under
thermal/mechanical stress. If you have leaking joint then cement and
tape might work.
Bob
Andrew
The stuff I'm planning to use is as follows (excuse the pun, but I'm not
plugging it). The flue is approx 10 years old and appears to be leaking
around the normal joints....not very much....enough to have BG stop me
using the fire.
Fortafix High Temperature RTV Silicone - HT FLEXSEAL 350
I bought myself some red smoke pellets and matches so should get a
reasonable idea of where it is coming from, but thought I'll do the whole
length to be safe.
Any thoughts appreciated.
A.
--
AR
Bob Minchin
pretty cool. Flexible sealant sounds a good idea. You can also buy the
continuous strip jubilee clip stuff and use it to form clamps to close
each joint after the sealant has been applied.
Good Luck
Bob
fred
<Nos...@nospam.com> writes
>Andrew wrote:
>> Bob
>>
>> The stuff I'm planning to use is as follows (excuse the pun, but I'm not
>> plugging it). The flue is approx 10 years old and appears to be leaking
>> around the normal joints....not very much....enough to have BG stop me
>> using the fire.
>>
>> Fortafix High Temperature RTV Silicone - HT FLEXSEAL 350
>>
>> I bought myself some red smoke pellets and matches so should get a
>> reasonable idea of where it is coming from, but thought I'll do the whole
>> length to be safe.
>>
>pretty cool. Flexible sealant sounds a good idea. You can also buy the
>continuous strip jubilee clip stuff and use it to form clamps to close
>each joint after the sealant has been applied.
>
gas closure plate tape to overlay that, then you know that the adhesive
is suitable for elevated temp use. Alu tape may not have hi temp
adhesive unless it is of a certain spec.
Temporarily using masking tape to confine the silicone to the seam of
the joint might be a nice idea as then the overlaid tape will be
sticking to the flue pipe, not the silicone.
--
fred
BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs
js.b1
If this is a class-1 brick chimney...
- Repoint the chimney as necessary
- Close to the fire it fire cement is generally used
If this is a precast flue...
- Generally further inspection is needed
- Is a precast block miss-aligned or cracked
- Is mortar missing, dry joint etc
If this is anything else further investigation not "sticking plaster".
A lining for a gas fire is not expensive, it's just a plate top &
bottom, plus a pipe. I think ?Wonderflue? is one type. A lining for a
wood burner conversely is very expensive re double wall and so on.
You are allowed a certain limited degree of leakage from a chimney
BTW, however the precise details matter.
It would be worth checking with a Gas Safe person and posting to uk.d-
i-y where some exist.
Cash
> Since when do BG service gas fires?
Since whenever you ask them to. Every time they book a boiler service with
me, their call-centre operator asks if I have a gas fire and want it
serviced at the same time!
> If this is a class-1 brick chimney...
> - Repoint the chimney as necessary
> - Close to the fire it fire cement is generally used
>
> If this is a precast flue...
> - Generally further inspection is needed
> - Is a precast block miss-aligned or cracked
> - Is mortar missing, dry joint etc
>
> If this is anything else further investigation not "sticking plaster".
Funny that, because that is what BG did on a metal gas flue of mine - a
little bit of duct tape worked wonders, and is still there after 10 years
with no problems.
> A lining for a gas fire is not expensive, it's just a plate top &
> bottom, plus a pipe. I think ?Wonderflue? is one type. A lining for a
> wood burner conversely is very expensive re double wall and so on.
I think that you may live in cloud cuckoo land, I had a quote of over a
�1000 (not BT) to reline my flue for a gas fire only - not a simple reline I
admit, but it was "expensive".
Cash
js.b1
wrote:
> Funny that, because that is what BG did on a metal gas flue
> of mine - a little bit of duct tape worked wonders, and is still
> there after 10 years with no problems.
Depends on the flue, position etc, however I doubt "duct tape" has a
BS number :-)
> > A lining for a gas fire is not expensive, it's just a plate top &
> > bottom, plus a pipe. I think ?Wonderflue? is one type. A lining for a
> > wood burner conversely is very expensive re double wall and so on.
>
> I think that you may live in cloud cuckoo land, I had a quote of over a
> £1000 (not BT) to reline my flue for a gas fire only - not a simple reline I
> admit, but it was "expensive".
I've heard this several times.
- Gas fire lining - £360-480 (not expensive) right up to £1000
(expensive)
- Wood burner lining - £1700-2600 (very expensive re twin wall T316)
There is a substantial range of material cost & labour cost.
The REAL problem with a lined chimney is that they don't damage the
lining, it's why I would want a camera inspection post lining to
confirm it was installed correctly before paying. Cost of materials
mean that covering up a mistake is possible.
Andrew
See my diagram || and \\ are the flue.
|| Flue exits out of roof.
|| SMOKE test didn't show actual leak, but enough
\\ to create smell.
\\ Metal sections of the flue is mounted in attic space
\\
[ ] Metal sections connects the flue that is mounted into the wall
||sealed with silicon.
|| Flue is located in the wall.
The smoke pellets didn't show where the leak was coming from, but you
could smell them. Therefore I'm going to do a top to toe seal of every
join with HT Flexseal 350 from Fortafix and protect it with Aluminium
Foil Tape.....then retest the whole lot.
A