Pipework to gas cookers - new regulations?

[Steve Jones]

Hello,

I've been told that there are new E.U. regulations in force which have
effectively banned the use of the traditional rubber hose and bayonet
connection for a gas hob or oven in a domestic kitchen.

The new regulations apparently say that cookers must now be hard-piped, with
a shut-off valve accessible near the appliance.

Can anyone confirm that such regulations exist?

If so, what would be the recommended pipework and fittings?
15mm copper? 8mm copper?? compression fittings?? or what?

Steve

[Craig Carr]

You've got it - no more bayonet type appliances under regulations.

I came across this recently when installing a kitchen. I initally was going
to throw caution to the wind and reuse the old bayonett connection but in
the end decided to hard pipe with 15mm copper pipe to the hob and also a
shut off valve to isolate if necessary. Yorkshire fittings are best, but
obviously it will be a compression into the rear of the appliance.

Steve Jones <steve...@pencoed-wales.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8mnkhj$ll$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...

[Steve Jones]

What I can't get my head around is how on earth can I connect 15mm copper to
the gas hob,
which will be sitting on a worktop with a built-under oven directly
underneath. No access from behind.

I suppose the gas supply to the hob is connected first, then the oven
(electric) is installed underneath. But that means if I wanted to remove the
hob for any reason, I would have to firstly remove the oven!

I wondered whether 8mm copper could be used as this should be flexible
enough to enable me to connect / disconnect with the hob unit tilted up
slightly from its place in the worktop.
Do you think 8mm copper would be too small to give the required flow rate to
the hob?

Steve

"Craig Carr" <ne...@craigliz.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8mpg65$6oj$1...@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

[Steve Jones]

[Steve Jones]

As you say, the rubber bayonet hoses are still on sale.
And we have been using them for years. Nothing could be simpler.

But in one store, they told me that my insurance could be invalidated by
installing a new unit with a rubber hose.

Infuriating!

"scoff" <Ihat...@spambegone.com> wrote in message
news:3990...@news.server.worldonline.co.uk...
> Would make the job of moving a cooker very difficult indeed if it were
> secured to the wall with a hard pipe!!!
>
> The DIY shops would also stop selling the rubber hoses, but they still
> are... What happens to existing cookers??
>
> Sounds like crap to me but most legislation does!!!
>
>

[Craig Carr]

Dave,

Are you installing a new kitchen??

If so I presume that you are installing the hob more or less in the same
position if not you will need to re-route the pipe to the new position. I
would use yorkshire fittings to do this.

When I installed my kitchen, the electric cooker sits between two base units
600mm apart and is supported on brackets screwed to the side of each unit.
(smaller electric ovens may actually be housed in a specially designed base
unit housing).

You will need to pipe in the hob first with the cooker out for 2 reasons.

1. TO PIPE IN THE HOB. - Connect to the end run of your existing/altered
pipe. You will need to get a good pipe bender to connect up. Make the
bends as tight as possible to the back wall, and check that the pipe run
you are proposing doesn't interfere with the depth required by your electric
cooker. (mine had a shamfer on the top of the oven to allow for pipe coming
up for the hob). I would use 15mm, (whats the diameter of the existing
pipework). In any case the connection at the back of the hob will be 15mm
compression fitting. Slip on an olive, tighten (but not to tight) and "bobs
your uncle". Oh I nearly forgot fit an isolation valve somewere in the run.
(if your pipework runs through kitchen units as opposed to the service area
at the rear of the base units then fit the isolation valve there for easier
access).

2. THE HOB WILL NEED TO BE LOCKED INTO PLACE. You wont be able to do this
if you fit the rubber hose and simply drop the hob back into the slot. Once
the hobs plumbed in there will be some sort of brackets from the hob that
you tighten up to the underside of the workbench to lock the hob into place.
In addition the hob is generally instaled on plasticine type sealent before
being tightened up.

You are quite right that to remove the hob again you will need to remove the
cooker, but how often is this likely?

Finally, as mentioned elswhere in this thread, you could invalidate you
house insurance. By all means do as I have suggested, but when finished
arrange for a qualified gas fitter to check over your work and "commision"
the job so to speak.

Steve Jones <steve...@pencoed-wales.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message

news:8mq3su$rm2$1...@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...

[scoff]

As of yesterday nobody had informed CORGI about a change in regulations!!!

I would suggest this would be the logical step to take??

The guy I spoke to said that the bayonet type rubber hoses were fine for
domestic gas cookers.

From the horses mouth so to speak!!

hope this clarifies things

Andy

[Craig Carr]

This may be the case for a stand alone gas cooker (ie hob and oven) but not
for seperate gas hobs.

The problem is that Steve is fitting an integrated electric cooker under the
integrated hob. Imagine the heat one of them things generates (especially
if on for a long time), and then imagine the effect the heat will have on
the rubber hose (ie it could perish).

This wont happen with copper pipe, hence the change in regs.

scoff <Ihat...@spambegone.com> wrote in message

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