Salamander pump problem
On Web
(noisy as heck though). Now we have a problem.
Normally we turn off the electrics to the pump (fused and switched spur) in
the evening so that it doesn't kick in late at night when running the basin
taps. Yesterday when turned on the pump was dead. None of the indicator leds
on the top were lit. I assumed a fuse had blown - consumer unit was fine so
I switched the fuse in the spur - still dead. Tried turning it off for a few
hours. Tried again and then it burst into life. Working fine.
Today a similar story. Pump worked in the morning, dead in the afternoon.
Called Salamander. Waited to be called back. Tried pump again - working!
five minutes later dead again.
The pump is about two years old and is either just in or out of warranty.
According to salamander they will sell me a replacement at trade price and
scrap my old one if I can't find the pump purchase details. They think it's
probably a fault with the PCB - which they cannot supply or repair - so a
replacement will be required.
Anyone experienced anything similar? I'm wondering if perhaps it's a dry
solder joint or something. The pump has an LED panel on the top and I just
thing it's just not getting any power (otherwise it would be lit with a
fault indication).
With such a short life I'm a bit reluctant to buy one from them again. I'm
also wondering if a two year life is 'reasonable' for a water pump.
Any ideas?
Paul
Palindrome
A dry joint on the pcb seems a reasonable explanation.
The legal situation is that it is nowt to do with Salamander, unless you
purchased it direct from them or unless you can meet their warranty
requirements (eg have a receipt and are within the warranty period, etc)
Two years life isn't reasonable. However, your claim would be against
whoever supplied it to you.
As you are on diy.home, I assume that you are considering taking the
cover off and looking at the pcb. Seems a sensible idea, if done
sensibly. However, if you can get the supplier to replace it, that is a
better option.
--
Sue
On Web
news:I7Kfk.45048$bC5....@fe07.news.easynews.com...
Absolutely. I wasn't that impressed by Salamander telling me that PCBs were
individually calibrated to the pump during manufacture so couldn't be simply
replaced (they then went on to say that they probably didn't have any
anyway).
> Seems a sensible idea, if done sensibly. However, if you can get the
> supplier to replace it, that is a better option.
The plumber who installed the pump was pretty unhappy that I'd bought a
Salamander pump and suggested that the many installation requirements meant
that warranty claims were difficullt.
Paul
> --
> Sue
Ian_m
> The plumber who installed the pump was pretty unhappy that I'd bought a
> Salamander pump and suggested that the many installation requirements
> meant that warranty claims were difficullt.
>
A mate of mine had a warranty issue with a shower pump couple of years ago,
can't remember the make Pump wouldn't start sometimes.
The manufacturers agent came out and refused a warranty replacement as
- Not fitted with 22mm full bore isolation valves (only standard non full
bore valves) thus may have damaged the pump.
- The pump was not easily accessable in rear or airing cupboard.
Anyway the plumber who originally fitted it took it apart, tightened a screw
on internal connector block (motor run capacitor) and pump worked fine.
Didn't change the isolating valves as what was the point as most of the
shower pipework in the house was 15mm, this being the limiting flow rate
factor.
Brianb
"Ian_m" <ia...@dsl.pipex.com> wrote in message
news:I5WdnWhjjct86B3V...@pipex.net...
> SNIP
>
>> The plumber who installed the pump was pretty unhappy that I'd bought a
>> Salamander pump and suggested that the many installation requirements
>> meant that warranty claims were difficullt.
>>
Salamander refused to warranty as the header tank didn't meet their
requirements. The current one has been installed for 4 years now, but I
agree that it's too noisy. Question is what to replace it with? The pump
is a whole house pump so can't be replaced by an regular shower pump. My
other alternative is a pressurised tank, but most of my house is plumbed in
15mm from the stop tap. So I don't think that the flow rates would be high
enough.
If you come up with a solution to your pump I'd be interested in the
outcome.
On Web
"Brianb" <bri...@cheerful.com> wrote in message
news:Ttsgk.11309$KW4....@newsfe16.ams2...
After a big struggle (the cover is fastened with two screws with heads
clearly designed to make casual tampering difficullt) I managed to get the
cover off the control electronics. Some VERY careful proding of the mains
connector block caused the pump to break into action. Aha I thought, the
block must be loose and/or have damaged connections. I managed to disconnect
the incoming cables and then thought it may not be the block - it may be the
cables themselves breaking with the vibration.
I resoldered the pins of the block and cut cable leading to the PCB by a few
inches then reattached the cables to the correct places.
On power-up it appeared dead. After a few attempts I did get a green LED but
that was followed later by a flashing red LEd indicating that the pump was
running dry. Currently it's dead. :-(
Paul
On Web
news:Z8wgk.10156$A42....@newsfe14.ams2...snip
>> If you come up with a solution to your pump I'd be interested in the
>> outcome.
>
> After a big struggle (the cover is fastened with two screws with heads
> clearly designed to make casual tampering difficullt) I managed to get the
> cover off the control electronics. Some VERY careful proding of the mains
> connector block caused the pump to break into action. Aha I thought, the
> block must be loose and/or have damaged connections. I managed to
> disconnect
> the incoming cables and then thought it may not be the block - it may be
> the
> cables themselves breaking with the vibration.
>
> I resoldered the pins of the block and cut cable leading to the PCB by a
> few inches then reattached the cables to the correct places.
>
> On power-up it appeared dead. After a few attempts I did get a green LED
> but that was followed later by a flashing red LEd indicating that the pump
> was running dry. Currently it's dead. :-(
If I can't get this working tomorrow, I'm going to have to buy a
replacement. Salamander is my cheapest and easiest replacement, though I'm
loath to buy another.
Other than Salamander, Stuart Turner look like the favourites round here.
The Salamander pump could cope with a negative head. I think that our flow
rates might be good enough just to have a flow triggerred pump rather than
have the system pressurised all the time.
If I have to get a replacement I might take the opportunity to raise the
pump off the floorboards (they act like a sounding board). I'm wondering
about the best way to try and insulate the sound transmission. Some rubber
matting might be an idea - I noticed Homebase were selling rubber tiles for
outside use, maybe they'll do the job..
> Paul
On Web
what happened.
I was resigned to buying a new pump, but reluctant to buy another
salamander, even with a price premium over Stuart Turner. I kept an eye on
ebay for some bargains and as luck would have it an identical pump was being
sold there - pickup only and missing the hose connections (which I already
had). The seller had removed the pump after installing a megaflow mains
pressurised system. I was told the pump had only been in use for a few
months before being removed. I won the auction for £102, so even if the unit
wasn't new it seemed a good buy in comparison with £300+ for another
salamander or £400+ for a Stauart Turner.
Seller demonstrated that it worked by switching it on for a couple of
seconds before I took it home.
Pump is now installed on a rubber mat and seems quieter than before, so now
everyone's happy again.
I notice that the special exchange price that Salamander offered in return
for my pump is now the 'sale' price on their website.
If anyone wants a defunct pump..
Paul
info.e...@gmail.com
However now a have new problem with this noisy rascal. It has slight positive head and always worked fine on positive-head setting. For some reason however it had to be reconfigured to negative as the pump started to 'chase' in positive-head setting. No big deal so far but after a while it is as if it started pulling air into the system which leads to very inconvenient (boiling) noises in the electrical heaters that are fitted on the output side. I fiddled a bit with the pressure of the little tank but to no avail. Any ideas most welcome.
Vir Campestris
> I had similar issue with ESP75CPV. It appeared to overheat. One of the impeller appeared dragging/grinding/fusing against the inlet plate. Clip to hold it in place had come off. This had happened with the other impeller within a year, without the overheating though. Hope this helps.
> However now a have new problem with this noisy rascal. It has slight positive head and always worked fine on positive-head setting. For some reason however it had to be reconfigured to negative as the pump started to 'chase' in positive-head setting. No big deal so far but after a while it is as if it started pulling air into the system which leads to very inconvenient (boiling) noises in the electrical heaters that are fitted on the output side. I fiddled a bit with the pressure of the little tank but to no avail. Any ideas most welcome.
>
> On Thursday, July 17, 2008 at 4:51:16 PM UTC+1, On Web wrote:
>> I have a Salamander ESP CPV 100 water pump. Has worked fine since installed
>> (noisy as heck though). Now we have a problem.
Dave Wilcox
Simon Edwards
It pulses on and off when in use.
Its a negative pump