Windows 8 Super Litel
Chara Dagres
When condensation shows up inside a thermal pane double window (between the two pieces of glass), you know that the seals around the edge have been compromised, allowing moisture to get inside. These cannot really be re-sealed so the standard response to this problem is to replace the glass unit. That is expensive.
So, if it looks like the only way you're going to be able to see out your window is to buy a new window pane, you may want to try drastic surgery first. It doesn't always work and you do run a fairly high risk of cracking the glass -- but it often does work and will give you years more service out of the same window.
Before I tell you how to attempt it yourself, as we did on the TV show, you should know that there is now a commercial process for doing this professionally and far better than a DIY job. Check out Professional Services.
What we want to do is to drill two small holes on the bottom of the outside piece of glass. When the sun shines on the window, it will warm up the air inside the unit, which will pick up some of the condensation. And because the air is expanding, it will move out through the holes. When it cools down at night, the cooler air coming in is always dryer. So, this once-a-day breathing process will actually very slowly clear the window out -- most of the time. There are several catches: The original source of moisture has not been blocked so you may occasionally see new moisture that has to bleed out slowly. If rainwater goes in these holes, you will be worse off than you were. If you don't screen your new holes, you will find spiders inside your window. If it is hot and humid during the summer where you live and you have air conditioning, the holes will work backwards and fill the window with water, so you may need to plug the holes up during the summer (moisture will always move from hot to cold).
The professional services do it slightly differently in that they drill one hole on the top and one on the bottom because they actually wash out the space between the windows. Then they have a super little filter plug that makes it all work even better.
So, still want to give it a try yourself? First, don't use a regular glass drill -- I have cracked some windows with those. Buy a 3/8 inch diamond hole saw for under $10, now available at most hardware stores for working on ceramic tiles.
Drill the holes at an uphill angle and be real patient. Do not work in the sunshine or extreme cold weather as any extra stress on the glass could kill it. The glass may already be under stress, the same stress that caused the seals to fail in the first place. Keep the drilling process wet with water. Wear gloves and glasses. The only good news about failure is large patio doors and other large glass will be laminated, like your car windshield, so if you shock it just wrong -- like in the last two photos, it cracks all over but the plastic sheet in the middle holds it together -- and gives you time to get a new window. I warned you -- only attempt this if you are ready to change the window or door anyway.
If you succeed like in the first photos, not like the last photos where you now have very classy spider web like cracks all over the window, put about one inch of plastic tube into the hole and glue it into place with some Goop or silicone. Gently put a little bit of Scotch Pad into the tube as a bug filter -- not enough to block the air movement. Then be patient. It should take from 2 to 12 weeks to work, depending on the temperature. The colder it is, the faster it works. The one we did for the show didn't seem to be working at all until, in just a couple of days, it suddenly became completely clear. I think I had the filter too tight the first six weeks.
Wayne writes that the professionals refused to even try his window because it was made of tempered glass and there was too much risk of shattering, like in the photos. He asked if it was possible to drill in from the side of the frame, through the seal that holds the two pieces of glass apart in order to accomplish the same thing without drilling through the glass? The answer is Yes. You can go in from the side but the "tunnel" must exit on the outdoor side of the window (or else in a cold climate it will pump moisture into the window space rather than remove it). You have to be very careful to not hit the glass when drilling -- but if you do you were going to have to replace the window (door) anyway.
Drill in from the side, then drill to that "tunnel" from the outside of the frame, avoiding the glass. Then plug the entry point on the first drill. That will leave you with a right angle channel to the outdoors. Make sure you have at least 1/8" clear -- make a bigger hole if you are going to put a screen or filter on it to keep the spiders out. In fact you can make a minimum hole through the seal into the window area, and a larger hole through the frame to this channel - leaving more space for that filter and keeping a bit more air flow. It can be difficult to know how much space there is between the pieces of glass -- never more than 5/8", often 1/2" and even common with less space. So follow all the same rules as above except the hole low down on the window could even be drilled vertically up through the frame, providing an actual gravity drain to the window space in addition to the moisture pumping action.
Remember to do your financial math. If the window or door frame is really shot, don't bother to spend the money on getting the glass clear. If you have several years service left in the frame and hardware, then an investment in clearing the window should be worth it. In one place at one time (prices change all the time) having a new thermal pane installed in a patio door cost about $350, while having the old one professionally cleared with a 10 year guarantee was about $200. A whole new patio door installed was close to $1,000.
For Christmas my wife bought me an RTX-2070 Super GPU and I was hoping to see a blazing improvement over the CPU which I been using for a year now. So I installed the card as per instructions, I downloaded and installed the drivers from the Nvidia site AND I updated Windows. In Daz Studio (I have version 4.12), I made sure that under the Render Tab - Advanced Settings that the CPU was unchecked and GPU was checked. So for a test I loaded up a render that I did previously using just the CPU and that render took 10 hours to get to 80%. I would be hoping that the RTX-2070 could get the job done in one hour. So I set up my machine, left for an hour and came back to find the Render progress at only 400 iterations and at 0% still. The render that was done in that time still looks grainy.
For $500+ for the RTX-2070, and for the benchmark tests I looked at before I bought the card, I was expecting my render times to be cut down by 1/10th the time. I would be even happy with 1/5th the time. But if this is all I am getting out of this card, it is going to go back to the store. I would be better off getting a faster CPU.
First you need to try a simple scene, a single primitive witha shader applied or a single prop. If that doesn't render very fast then you need to check the Nvidia control panel, manage 3D settings, select Daz and make sure it can use the GPU.
Definately something not setup correctly there, 2403 cuda cores should blow the doors off IRAY rendering using a CPU, as Cinus said check in the log file first, post the appropriate part of it here if you need further help.
Steve.
Sounds like it is dropping back to CPU rendering. The option to turn off CPU rendering is only to remove it from the normal chain of rendering. However, if the GPU fails, it will STILL render in CPU mode. Which I wish it wouldn't, because then you honestly don't know if it failed, unless you happen to see that line or notice that it's going slow.
2: Something you are rendering, for some reason, may trigger some failure when loading into the card. Causing it to fall back to rendering on the CPU, even though it would have fit into the video-cards memory.
It seems that #2, #3 and #4 are sort-of hitting a few of us at the moment. A combination of driver issues, from using the latest drivers, as well as IRAY and Daz3D issues, with the latest releases of V4.12. They seem to be most noted on the Titan series and 10xx and 20xx cards, which is the newer generation cards. Essentially, anything with "Volta" components and/or RTX components.
1: Save your scene before you render. (Not because Daz3D will crash, but because if it stops rendering to GPU, it will not recover. You will have to restart Daz3D to re-establish the links to the cards and free-up memory.) Restart Daz3D, after checking task-manager to see if it has actually shut down completely and freed-up your memory in RAM and VRAM. (Hit [ctrl]+[alt]+[del] to bring-up the option to open task-manager.)
2: Don't use IRAY preview. At-least when you plan to actually render something. Use it while playing around, if needed, then save and try rendering. See step #1 if that drops back to CPU again. You may get one, or a few good renders, then it will fail again.
3: Check the logs to see if there is any mention about the total scene size. Though it is not 100% accurate, relative to what is inside the actual card, it gives you an idea of a potential problem if you are trying to stuff a 8GB scene into a 8GB card. You don't have 8GB of available memory in a 8GB card, and you still need room to manipulate and calculate the final rendered image too. 6-7GB should fit decently into a 8GB card. (Windows can consume up to 1.5GB of your VRAM for itself. Normally, it should only be about 0.3-0.7GB, if it is not your primary display driver.)
4: Check your video-card memory use and CUDA use, using task-manager. (Hit [ctrl]+[alt]+[del] and select taskmanager and go to the "Performance" tab. You will have to select CUDA as a data-set to monitor, for your GPU. The memory will show at the bottom. If you see it max-out, then drop down to almost nothing, you have just dropped back to CPU rendering again. Daz tried to stuff too much into the video-card memory and it peaked, ran out of room, and crashed.)
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