Spray gun for frame
trapnest
too big.
Especially when I paint clear, many big particles just fly behind and
stick to the other tube.
I am thinking to buy a Iwata mini gun for base and clear coat.
,a low pressure gun. May be a LPH-50 with 1.0 mm tip.
Is it too small for Imron and 2k clear coat?
Anthony
The sprayer I use is a Paasche (American Made). The model is in the AUFB
with a gravity feed 3oz fluid bottle. It works great on Basecoat and Clear
coat. if you call Paasche, they will help you pick the fluid tips for what
you will need and the replacement part are very available. Here's a link to
the
the image of the gun. At that price I will I may buy another one.
http://www.paascheairbrush.com/Manual_Spray_Guns-AUFB-0_1.html
P.S. Please don't forget to sign off, so we know your name.
Anthony
Mezzatesta Custom Cycles
Cranberry Twp. PA. 16066
www.mezzatestacustomcycles.com
jon norstog
The 1.0mm nozzle will lay down plenty of paint. Which is good for
primer, especially. I like maybe a .8 or so for paint, and especially
for clear.
The Iiwata is a decent gun, so is the Sat Minijet. but you can do
decent work with the cheap Taiwan HVLP detail guns that are on the
market as well.
good luck
jn
"Thursday"
Suzy
nozzle. This is perfect for colour coats, and okay for primer, but
really too small for clear. I bought the Iwata after frustration with
automotive "touch-up" guns, which typically had 1.8mm nozzles with no
ability to control the flow and crap atomisation.
I'm thinking of getting an Iwata RG-3 specifically for clear, with a
1.0mm nozzle. This is very similar to the LPH-50, but without the fan
spray.
Cheers,
Suzy
--
Suzy Jackson
http://www.littlefishbicycles.com
http://suzyj.blogspot.com
B.B.
I'm completely new to paint. Been looking at this thread then started
looking at Iwata kits. They look like they'd be the best to produce
results. Just got a few questions on time and paint though. How do you
find the production time with an airbrush? How long would it take and
how often do you find your refilling your pot? I'd imagine you'd be
doing it often. And Suzy, how do you go with getting paint in Oz? What
kind of paint is used in a air brush like an Iwata Revolution, BCR
Bottle Feed Airbrush, Model HP-BCR, or in a Iwata RG-3?
Thanks,
Ben.
On Jun 19, 10:35 am, Suzy <suzyfro...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I paint at present with an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS airbrush, with 0.5mm
> nozzle. This is perfect for colour coats, and okay for primer, but
> really too small for clear. I bought the Iwata after frustration with
> automotive "touch-up" guns, which typically had 1.8mm nozzles with no
> ability to control the flow and crap atomisation.
>
> I'm thinking of getting an Iwata RG-3 specifically for clear, with a
> 1.0mm nozzle. This is very similar to the LPH-50, but without the fan
> spray.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Suzy
>
Suzy
> I'm completely new to paint. Been looking at this thread then started
> looking at Iwata kits. They look like they'd be the best to produce
> results. Just got a few questions on time and paint though. How do you
> find the production time with an airbrush? How long would it take and
> how often do you find your refilling your pot? I'd imagine you'd be
> doing it often.
I use 120ml bottles on my Iwata HP-BCS. I find a full wet coat of
primer is generally around 60-90 ml (Dupont epoxy) . A full wet coat
of colour is 60-80ml odd for properly reduced Imron, and maybe 40-50ml
for Auto-air (Auto-air doesn't go on wet - it's built up slowly for a
satin finish but dries very fast and doesn't set up in the bottle -
the 40ml is the amount of paint it takes to achieve consistent
colour). Clear is around 80ml (Imron). Less is more with paint. The
last thing you want to do is hide all your intricate metalwork under
an ugly thick coat of paint.
It takes around five minutes for a coat. This is fine for primer and
colour, as I'm not trying to achieve a high gloss. For clear it's
problematic, as the paint is setting up on some tubes while I'm still
painting others. A booth and some thought as to what order I paint in
helps to reduce overspray on already painted bits (and thus preserve
gloss) but a slightly larger tip would be better.
> And Suzy, how do you go with getting paint in Oz? What
> kind of paint is used in a air brush like an Iwata Revolution, BCR
> Bottle Feed Airbrush, Model HP-BCR, or in a Iwata RG-3?
I use a mix of Imron and Auto-air. Imron comes in huge pint and
gallon tins, so I only use it now for clear and prime. Auto air is
readily available in 120ml bottles, and is the bees knees for painting
bikes. I've also used DeBeer clear on motorbike parts (a satin
finish) and really liked that. I intend on swapping from Imron to
DeBeer once my Imron clear and primer runs out, which will be some
time next decade, as I had to buy a US gallon of each.
I haven't found a paint yet that won't flow in my HP-BCS, with 0.5mm
nozzle. Remember this is big as far as airbrushes go - many
airbrushes have 0.3mm nozzle. Also for painting bikes I tend to
reduce a little more than the usual application painting cars. I
imagine the 1.0mm nozzle on an RG-3 will spray anything as well,
though obviously I can't speak for this gun as I haven't yet got one.
Cheers,
Suzy
Ben Bates
Ben.
da...@southwestframeworks.com
bike with an airbrush. We only use the airbrush for graphics such as
paint masks and accents. For basecoats we use 1.2 fluid tips and for
primer and clear we use 1.4 fluid tips. We also have 100 psi coming in
to the paint booth and around 20-30 psi coming in to the gun, depending
on the solids content of what we're spraying. Are you getting
atomization with your Iwata with such a small fluid tip? We've found
that our pressure and fluid tip combo is the only way to atomize a high
solids clear. Without that much air at the booth there'd be no way to
increase pressure if we start to get a run in the clear.
David Cheakas
www.southwestframeworks.com