Layered lighting uses three lighting techniques to brighten a room entirely. It adds a base layer and accents to create dimensions and textures throughout the space. Each layer of light complements the other to establish a comprehensive lighting solution. Layered lighting helps build an aesthetically pleasing and functional room.
Also known as general lighting, ambient lighting adds overall illumination to a room. In other words, ambient lighting brightens an entire space and makes it possible to see clearly. It provides a uniform base layer for rooms.
Once the ambient layer lights the entire space, you can implement task lighting to accentuate specific areas. Task lighting highlights certain areas and removes shadows, glares or other distracting features that might cause eyestrain. For example, task lighting fixtures might illuminate a stovetop or countertop in a kitchen. Or, task lighting might emphasize a workstation in an office.
Accent lighting unites the three layers with a personalized finish. It complements the other elements and highlights specific architecture or decorations. Accent lighting is the most subjective lighting layer and allows you to customize a space based on preferences and belongings.
A combination of ambient, task and accent lighting creates a safe, comfortable and accessible environment. From illuminating the room to adding personal touches, a complete layer design can transform your space.
Mixing and matching multiple light sources means that the room you use for work in the daytime can be transformed into an elegant space for entertaining in the evening and a cosy nook for reading late at night.
Using multiple light sources allows for a smooth transition from a bright room used to work in the daytime to a sophisticated space for entertaining in the evening, or a dim room for watching films. Altogether, ambient, task and accent lighting create a visually and functionally balanced room.
This type of lighting should provide glare-free, general illumination in a space. Depending on the time of the day or the amount of light coming inside, you can build upon natural sunlight with soft ceiling, floor and wall lighting.
Wall decor, photos and unique architectural details receive more attention when a light is present to highlight their characteristics, depth and dimension. As a general rule, accent lighting should be three times brighter than the surrounding ambient lighting for maximum impact.
It is important to note that, depending on their brightness and beam spread, both accent and task lighting fixtures can realistically produce adequate ambient light at the same time.
Your choice of light bulbs can drastically affect the outcome of your light layering. Start off on the right foot by selecting bulbs with your preference of cool (4000K or higher) or warm (2700-3000K) color temperatures.
In this article, I discuss some of the challenges that an effective layering system needs to address. I also highlight a handful of the layers that I use the most and how I combine them into various ensembles for different use cases.
During physical activity, your body generates heat. In addition, heat is absorbed by your clothing when you are exposed to warm temperatures and direct sunlight. That heat must leave your clothing system in order for you to remain comfortable.
Likewise, during periods of inactivity in cold temperatures, heat loss can make you uncomfortable. Heat loss to the environment is exacerbated in wet conditions (evaporative heat loss), windy conditions (convective heat loss), and when exposed to a clear night sky (radiative heat loss).
During activity, your body generates moisture in both vapor and liquid (sweat) phases. The movement of sweat from your skin surface to the environment occurs in response to complex processes that involve evaporation, condensation, and capillary movement along fiber surfaces (wicking). Likewise, the movement of moisture vapor through your clothing occurs in response to convection, diffusion, and vapor pressure differentials.
The extent to which moisture accumulates in your clothing will depend on the hydrophobicity (or hydrophilicity) of fiber surfaces, capillary forces within the fabric structure, fabric porosity, air permeability, diffusion (breathability) resistance, and mechanical ventilation features.
In Do Moisture-Wicking Fabrics Work? and Why is My Base Layer Soaked? Stephen Seeber explored the relationship between fabric hydrophobicity, wicking, and moisture movement in base layer apparel. One of the conclusions from his testing:
However, this work suggests that more hydrophobic base layer fabrics may not only absorb less moisture and dry faster, but their notable lack of wicking may also contribute to more comfort and more rapid expulsion of moisture from your clothing system.
Garments that are thin, light, and made with hydrophobic fibers will absorb less moisture and dry faster than garments made with fabrics that are thicker, heavier, and made with hydrophilic fibers. Rapid dry time is an attribute that can be correlated to moisture transfer out of a clothing system. In addition, rapid dry time may be valuable for users who risk water immersion (e.g., packrafting, river crossing).
Air permeability contributes to the evacuation of moisture vapor from a clothing system by allowing the vapor pressure gradient on either side of the fabric to create convective (moisture-laden) air movement across the fabric surface. I prefer wind shirts and rain jackets that are at the higher end of the air permeability spectrum in those product categories.
Likewise, the three base and insulating layers I own and use regularly (Brynje fishnet, Finetrack polyester mesh, and Polartec Alpha) are highly air-permeable and facilitate convective moisture vapor movement through clothing without having to rely on wicking.
In this article, I discuss some of the challenges that an effective layering system needs to address. In addition, I highlight a handful of the layers that I use the most and how I combine them into various ensembles for different use cases.
So many brands make very similar items, and often in multiple colors. Instead, what we really need is more size and fit options, so any item that comes in a wider range of sizes, or short and tall fits, should really get a big pat on the back.
For insulation at rest/camp, does anyone recommend AD pants sized up to wear over trekking pants, or slim fit to wear under them? I have torrid pants for fall nights in the upper teens-20s, but for colder late summer nights in the upper 20s-30s I am considering the far pointe pants.
The Brynje under Lifa has been very versatile below freezing. As temp drops into the 20s, just layer an octa if not too windy, or a nylon quarter zip with zone fabric if a slight wind. As winds pick up more, layer on a Dooy.
Have you ever reviewed any of the Buffalo system garments? I never had any Buffalo clothing but I had the Patagonia Infurno Jacket, which was a silicone impregnated polyester jacket lined with really thick Retro Fleece (not called Retro at the time). It was the best garment I ever used in 35F driving rain. as my body heat was enough to always keep a dry layer next to my skin no matter how hard it was raining. It was totally windproof and breathable at the same time.
What I feel is missing, from this otherwise well written article, is leg wear/pants. Both what you look for as it relates to your layering philosophy and specifically what you found to work best for you. While the upper body is more complex and needs more fine tuning of layers to keep comfortable, it is very easy to adjust upper body layers on the fly. Whereas adjustments to lower body layers takes more effort and as such I often find myself contemplating much more about what pants to choose for a specific outdoor activity, than I do for the more easily adjusted upper body layers. In essence this probably boils down to a pair of pants that strikes a good balance between sun protection, sufficient protection against insect bites and decent enough breathability/ventilation to get you through a hot day. The supporting layers, e.g. rain pants, base layer etc. are a lot easier to pick because the use case is more limited.
I really tested it this winter, in a 5 day backcountry ski trip. Wearing a shell over it all the time, and a pack, there was plenty of sweating. The last day was warm, but I fell a lot, so kept my shells zipped up to keep snow out. I was sweating like a pig. The Brynje PP still smelled fine.
Author, designer, innovator, and lecturer Randall Whitehead is America's top expert in residential lighting. He has drawn upon his experience from over thirty years of consulting practice to develop a unique and comprehensive body of knowledge about lighting and how it affects us everywhere we live and work. Randall has appeared many times as a guest expert on The Discovery Channel, HGTV, and CNNfn. He has developed an extensive series of seminars on lighting design and has produced them throughout the United States, Canada and South America.
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