Atlas Paint Converter Download
Janne Evers
4. Edit it with some fancy set up. You can download some license free vector files, then move it on photoshop window. Vector images do not lose quality when you resize it. After everything delete the template layer. It should look this way. =1239&height=677
6. Open the file with Atlas pnt converter. Load the picture you just made, reduce colors if needed, also dither. Game has capped colors, so after all your image will not look as much as you wish it to.
8. Congrats, you just created your sail. Now all you need to do is, enter the game, use brush on your object and click on "load painting" button, choose the one you want, then click on "load painting" again. Be patient - it takes some time to finish the painting.
However, I think each guide on this topic is missing some crucial step, so some newer players are confused by the actual process of painting in-game, from start to finish. In this post, I'm going to attempt to give a complete tutorial on how to paint in-game. This covers the following topics:
Creating graphics to use in-game requires a little bit of file manipulation: the game uses .pnt files to store the graphics, which are unreadable by typical image editing software. You have to use the .pnt converter above (we'll explain thoroughly later) to convert the images to a .png format, which is readable and editable.
The only other tricky part is knowing which pixels in the image go to which parts of the in-game item (for those that are interested, this is known as UV mapping). We'll need to make templates for each and every item you want to make a graphic for - that includes player tattoos, each animal you may want to paint, each size and type of sail (including cosmetic designs), signs, billboards, and canvases. Each will need their own template! After that, the only limit is your own creativity.
If you found any part of this tutorial confusing, please let me know in the comments, and I'll clarify any of the steps Also, please share your templates in the comments - that's the most tedious part of painting, and I know people have some templates for others to use out there - if you have a good stash of templates in one place, let me know and I'll add a link to the top of the post!
I know this topic comes up a LOT on this forum, but I really can't decide. I am about to build a very realistic layout in my basement, and I am stuck between Atlas O and Scaletrax. I will mostly be using 072 curves, flextrack, and #4/#5 turnouts. I love the profile, realistic rails, and center rail on Scaletrax. But, I LOVE the tie size and spacing of Atlas. Comments or suggestions? Also, this would be a great business opportunity (as many have my same dilemma) for a company to come in and fill the gap (Hint hint, Lionel ) and make a low-profile track with realistic ties/spacing. Thanks!
Here's a thought. Design your plan using software with multiple track manufacturers available and see which manufacturer's track works best. SCARM is still free for limited use, and I recommend it. Then, decide whether "looks" or ease of use or cost will be the biggest factor in your choice of track. By the way, many people here have complained about Atlas flex-track and quite a few swear by Gargraves flex-track.
The Rollers on your engines will probably be better off with Atlas track. I come across lots of postwar items that were run on "Super-O" track, which has a center rail very similar to the scaletrax one, and they dont look good... You'll also probably be able to find Atlas O easier than scaletrax, its more popular than scaletrax and more dealers carry it, and the used market will be more populated with Atlas O. Atlas O would be the safer choice in my humble opinion. Either way, I'm eager to see your layout progress!
I've used both Atlas and ScaleTrax. Both have pros and cons. The biggest pro about Atlas is the tie length/width and spacing; the biggest con is that the flex is tricky (but not impossible) to work with. All new alignments at the club are being done with Atlas as it doesn't rust and is quieter than Gargraves due to solid rails.
ScaleTrax is easy to work with, but the joining is a bit tricky with the clips (not major). The tie dimensions and height are great, plus the rail height is nicer. The tie spacing however, matches concrete "commuter" trackage (as do the rail retainers) rather than wood. I had even thought about painting the ties off white to mimic concrete ties. When ballasted, ScaleTrax looks very good.
The big factor for you should be turnout and section availability. Atlas has more sizes available, plus it's easy to connect Ross turnouts to Atlas track. With ScaleTrax, you have to "trench" the Ross turnouts because the rails are higher and butt-joint the sections since no connectors would work reasonably well with the two track types. From a rail height perspective, I'd use Atlas track without cork roadbed and ScaleTrax with the roadbed.
I use Atlas track on my layout and like it a lot. The rails are a bit larger than I would like, but not bad. My one suggestion is this. Unless you are going to have massive curves (larger than O-100) DO NOT USE FLEX TRACK!!!! I bought the flex track and was really excited for the look of gentle curves, but it is nearly impossible to bend. I ended up buying sectional track for my curved parts and couldn't return the flex track (ouch $$$). Scaletrax is super easy to bend, but if you're doing sectional, Atlas all the way!
Hi there Jack. I'm a proponent of both systems ( but not GG) you are considering. I had a decent sized layout using scaletrax and was very happy with it. Like you, the low profile and thin center 'blade' appealed to me. The flex track was very easy to work with (unlike Atlas) and the switches were reliable. Although limited to 072, #4s, and #6's I never felt hindered by the choices. You can always use Ross switches to expand when needed and when ballasted and weathered they do blend in nicely. The overall look of scaletrax enhanced the scale appearance of my equipment and definitely made the locomotives appear more 'massive' due to the low profile.
Like you again, the tie spacing of scaletrax continued to bother me and I am planning to use Atlas on my next layout due mainly to the spacing. I still don't like the oversized rail that Atlas uses, especially the center rail which causes the track to look 'clunky' and crowded to me.
I experimented once with a short length of Atlas where I removed the center rail and replaced it with the blade from scaletrax. The effect was terrific! A huge improvement as far as I am concerned. When I'm ready to build again, I might try replacing the center rail with something else in certain areas where the track is highly visible...
I decided to use Atlas track just because it is available on the West Coast. and most online firms carry it. None of the hobby shops out here carry Scaletrax. I think you will need to identify a reliable source for Scaletrax before you decide to use it.
I have, and again the tie spacing bothers me. I have an MTH dealer within 20 minutes of my that does large orders of Scaletrax, so that is not a problem. To clarify, I would really only be using flextrack to make an 063 size curve with Scaletrax, so Atlas flextrack is not really gonna be used. Is there a way to swap rails/ties?
I had the same impression when I first saw the MTH Scaletrax, however I was sort of willing to overlook that since the rail hight/size was SO MUCH moor realistic for our 3-Rail SCALE planned layout (large curves and large turnouts). Finally, I decided on the Atlas O "21st Century Track System".
After all our track was layed and wired, I then saw Rich Battista's videos! Looking back on it, I wish I had gone with the MTH Scaletrax product, as it looks more prototypical, in my opinion, having spent my entire working life in the railroad motive power business.
I have an MTH dealer within 20 minutes of my that does large orders of Scaletrax, so that is not a problem. To clarify, I would really only be using flextrack to make an 063 size curve with Scaletrax, so Atlas flextrack is not really gonna be used. Is there a way to swap rails/ties?
I was in the same place you were just a year ago. I decided on Scaletrax and couldn't be happier. The first layout I did was with Gargraves track and Switches. Those Gargrave switches were since changed out to Ross.
My advice, is to buy a few pieces of each that represent what you will be using (sectional, flex, straight). Get familiar with them and their quirks. That way you can choose the track that is best for you and your skillset. This may cost a few extra dollars, but those few extra dollars are much easier to swallow than redoing the entire track system.
1) Flex track is great in HO, N, and Z....but is very, very hard to work with in three rail O scale. With so many different curved sections available, I don't think the juice is worth the squeeze. (If you need a jig to bend the curves, why bother?)
FWIW, the construction of my new layout earlier this year luckily coincided with MTH re-stocking many of their ScaleTrax dealers with new inventory -- including the long-awaited #4 and #6 turnouts that had been nearly impossible to find for a couple of years. So I encountered no supply issues that adversely affected the project's timetable.
1. The small track sections can drop rails very easily---They fall off because only the thin plastic molded rail spike heads hold the rail to the ties. I have over forty pieces of track that lost rails. Some were already damaged in the sealed Atlas O bubble packs. (Atlas O should use a machine screw through the ties and into the rails to hold the rails in place.) The small track sections have only a dimple in the plastic tie bed that keeps the rails from moving. Unfortunately this dimple acts as a wedge and can pop the rail off the ties from the thin spike heads when joining two small sections of track together. Be careful.
2. The outside rails are not wired together (like old Lionel tin plate track with metal joining ties) and need power leads to both outside rails. (Lionel recommends this for signal strength for Legacy engines.) The Atlas O Century track makes isolated track sections for triggering signals and accessories easier. My Atlas O signals look great and are worth the effort installing them. The computer boards allow the signals to "talk" to each other as the train moves around the layout.
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