Summer in Saint Marys, GA
Lydia Fell
Saint Marys, GA
09/28/13
I can hardly believe the date; it doesn't seem possible that we've been here for nearly four months. It wasn't intentional; we had really hoped to get as far as Nova Scotia on our “shake-down” cruise this summer, but as usual, our plans were dashed into a different kind of wonderful summer.
We came up the river to Saint Marys from Cumberland Island at the beginning of June, and anchored well out, where we shot endless pictures of dramatically beautiful skies and marshes, storm cloud formations and one unbelievable full arc, double rainbow; breathtaking stuff. Despite being up the river, there's a big sky here and as we watch the lightning over Amelia Island across the marsh, it's easy to slide back the centuries and imagine cannon fire instead; Fernandina Beach has had the war-torn flags of 8 nations flying over it since 1562. The whole area is steeped in history.
We met up with our new daughter-in-law's parents, Darlene and Ralph, who live nearby and who helped us settle in with grocery runs, laundry and the like – it was wonderful to have them as a welcoming committee :) At the same time, we made friends with another cruising couple, Rick and Linda, who had a vehicle of their own, and invited us to tour the Jax Zoo and the Museum of Science before they moved north up the coast. The zoo was wonderful (coming from someone who isn't crazy about zoos at all, although my attitude has improved since reading Life of Pi) and so was the museum; Jacksonville is an exceptionally beautiful city, and a very easy drive from here.
Eventually, we tied up at the Lang's east dock in order to bring a local mechanic aboard to help us with our banjo bolt fuel leak, a diesel problem we'd not been able to solve. And while that fix was accomplished readily, there began what seemed to be an unbelievable, steady progression of more problems, one after the other. The refrigeration stopped working, both computers died, the fuel pump sprung new leaks, the wifi on the top of the mast failed, and then the GPS mysteriously quit. We scratched our heads bald.
We began to wonder if we were meant to stay here. It's been frustrating, to say the least, and it's been very hard not to get despondent.
But there are always silver linings, and they have been so plentiful this summer that it's been difficult to focus on getting our failures aboard fixed. Saint Marys has been such an embraceable town, filled with kind and caring people who have welcomed us with open arms and the promise of help, if need be. We joined the Saint Marys Yacht Club as social members, where dinner and drinks and excellent camaraderie is shared every Saturday evening by the loveliest people you'd ever want to meet.
We also became instant friends with Gaila and Jerry Brandon at the Riverview Hotel, who received the “Cruising Station of the Year Award” by the Seven Seas Cruising Association in 2012 - a high honor indeed, and well deserved. Every year, Gaila and Jerry host a pot-luck Thanksgiving feast for whomever cares to come, literally. This has included hundreds of cruisers over the years who arrive in flotillas and fill up the harbor especially for the event, before they continue on their southern migration. This year will be no exception, and one and all are invited :) Gaila made a vehicle available to us for shopping, and the Market On The Square ice cream store has a washer and dryer in the corner of the shop available for use! This is indeed an amazingly cruiser-friendly town.
Once we were on the dock, we realized that we had the perfect opportunity to bring in family. This was really special for us; one of Skip's children had never seen the boat and the smaller grandchildren had their first experience of being aboard. We piled the first wave of visitors on board – my four children and spouses (save one who couldn't make it), Harrison (5) and Sawyer (2) and motored down to Cumberland Island, where we threw out the anchor and dinghied ashore. Harrison, who is naturally a cautious child (as opposed to his brother, who was born without fear of any kind at all) was very compliant about all the safety gear we insisted they wore on board, despite the heat, and I think we might have a sailor in the making with that one :)
The next weekend, Skip's daughter, Jennifer and family drove down and we introduced the boat to Jeremiah (5), Elisha (4) and Selah (20 mos). It was another blistering weekend. Learning from the weekend before, we didn't attempt more hiking on Cumberland Island than the children could handle, but enjoyed the nearly empty, pristine beach there, a special treat for the kids. The following weekend, Skip's son, David came in with his family and two teens. Madi is 16 now, and Quin is 13; both girls cruised with us for a month three years ago and with a bit of breeze that weekend, we skipped Cumberland, went out of the Saint Marys Inlet and actually sailed! I had forgotten how much I thirsted for the ocean.
All the families arrived on Friday evenings, and stayed across the street at The Riverview Hotel, circa 1916, enjoying the historic ambiance and the “house pets”, especially Daisy Mae, a resident kitty who will be most grateful if you'll let her sleep with you :) We were out all day on Saturday, and everyone left, exhausted, after brunch on Sunday to drive back to their various homes. For us, it was a very special time.
Skip has now replaced the GPS, the wifi is temporarily cobbled, and we have two working computers again. We're technically able to leave, albeit with more things to be fixed. But with his 50th high school reunion coming up the first weekend in October near Rochester, NY, and Jacksonville airport conveniently close, we feel it prudent to stay put until that visit is behind us.
Meanwhile, we are preparing the boat for Bentley to come and vacation with us. Bentley is the oldest (10) of our many furry grandchildren, and is a long-haired Chihuahua with whom we were very involved before we went sailing, and who was born to make humans happy. He is naturally charming, always has a smile for everyone, and is content and grateful to be wherever you are. We're going to see if that includes being on the boat; if he likes it, we'll see how he handles sailing :). We've been installing netting around the stainless steel railings which will also make us (and their parents) a great deal more comfortable with our smaller grandchildren on board, despite all the safety gear we insist they wear. And for those who are wondering about her, Portia, our kitty of many cruising years, is doing a marvelous job of giving my mom the love and partnership that only an animal can. :) She's very happy where she is.
Now, at the end of September, the weather is beginning to have the promise of Fall; the air is dryer and cooler, and we had our first cold front yesterday, which was enough to necessitate digging a quilt out for the bed … a lovely, snuggly experience after this hot summer of fans at night. Such a delicious reprieve!
Tomorrow, Jerry Brandon and his sons are swimming from St. Marys to Fernandina Beach, and we've volunteered as cheerleaders. They're catching the out-going current on the first leg – in-coming current on the return, but nevertheless, it's still 5 miles each way by water. Jerry just turned 70. This swim is not for the faint of heart; as well as the adorable otter family which live in these waters and frequent our dock, I've also seen an alligator here of about 4', jelly fish, and some young bull sharks which were fished out of the river. Jerry has made this swim every 5 years, but only in one direction; he's a braver man than I. Stay tuned to this spot :)
We continue to live in the Now; every day is a gift. I'll write again as they tumble in!
Love, Lydia
- Antoine de Saint-Exupéry