Fridge Wiring Diagram Pdf

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Im trying to work out what the "Compartment Heater" and "Compensating Thermo" are. Following the colors, the compensating thermo is inside a terminal box which is subjected to external room temperature.The back cover is not removable from the fridge without damaging the rear cover so I'm uable to find out where the Orange and Gray wires go.

It's definitely not part of the cyclic defrost system (which I plan on keeping). My intention is to cut a vent between fridge and freezer compartments and fan force the air (so the entire unit is at one temperature) and use a digital temp controller, am I right in assuming I should isolate/disconnect this heater regardless of where it is and what it does?

The defrost heater is clearly marked in the diagram, so it is extremely unlikely the "compartment heater" is used for defrosting. Most probably the compartment heater is for what used to be known as the "butter keeper" compartment, which maintains a slightly warmer temp than the rest of the fridge so that butter is not rock hard when you want to use it without waiting for it to soften after taking it out. The "compensating thermo" would be used to generate the right amount of heat to keep the compartment at the ideal softened butter temp regardless of what the main fridge temp is set to.

The "compartment heater" is most probably used for defrosting the freezer section. The "compensating thermo" ,I would guess, is an exterior thermostat that will make adjustments to the appliances' interior temperature if the ambient air goes past a pre-determined setting. If you are looking to modify the appliance so that both freezer and lower section will be equal in temperature couldn't you set the thermostat(s) to the same setting? But I think you are correct in that the "heater" should be disconnected or removed for a steady temperature setting.

Based on this very simple schematic, I think live goes in on top of the control board and goes back to the compressor on the bottom. So the control board is breaking the live wire, based on the sensor input.

The schematic is not entirely complete, because there does not seem to be a neutral wire to the control board. I think they left out the power to the control board and are just showing that it switches the live wire.

Thanks Elco for your help input on this. I bought all the materials for this setup, but had to shelf the fridge hacking project for a couple months due to health / family issues, but now I need to wrap it in a hurry since I need to have my fermenter setup and running shortly.

The idea I was thinking of pursuing was to jumper the live current through the board so that the current was always flowing to two the compressor while plugged in, then, on the compressor side, I would place my SSR to actuate the compressor. This seems in line with what you were suggesting, but your last sentence concerns me.

Next steps (in a couple weeks) I will be doing what is pictured here:

HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community. Haier wine fridge fermentation chamberI've had a Haier BC112G 30 bottle wine fridge in my basement, largely unused for a couple of years now as the wine has moved into a larger cabinet. I...

As far as figuring out which connections to jumper, that will likely vary fridge to fridge and will require a wiring diagram and a multimeter - to be certain your doing it correctly, but the link (with pictures) above is likely to be pretty close to what you have.

I learned that some Dometic RM2454 fridges have cooling fans located between the upper and lower coils, in an area that is completely inaccessible without removing the unit entirely. Jason in Service told me that they started receiving these units in mid-2017 (mine was delivered in May '17), and that previously there was NO Dometic fan installed. On those units Oliver added their own fan, positioned up high above the upper coils where it was easily reached, and I believe these fans also had an inside On/ Off switch. Yay! Good thinking.

Last summer my fan started squealing when the outside air temperature got really high, and there was no way to shut off the nasty noise without killing power to the entire unit. It has no manual switch, rather it is activated by a an inline temp switch that is in the positive wire, near the fan itself. How very inconvenient for the owner.... The squeal went on long into darkness before the outside temp fell enough to shut it off.

The Dometic Owners Manual and the Oliver Owners Manual wiring diagrams do NOT show the fan, but the diagram inside the backside of my fridge does; it is located on the far right behind the gas valve. The fan is labelled "Y".

Here's how to disconnect power from the fan so you don't have to remove the whole unit. it takes about ten minutes if you are slow. If you are careful you don't need to power off the fridge, I did not bother. The electronic control box is covered by a square plastic cover.

Remove the single Phillips screw at the top, use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one. Don't lose the screw. There are two spring loaded hooks at the 4:00 and 8:00 o'clock positions. Insert a thin flat bladed screwdriver into each slot, lever the handle gently away from the slot while pulling out on the cover. The hooks should release. Remove the cover.

At the bottom of the circuit board you will see a row of wires. (In the pic they are numbered - that was my idea for when I disconnected them all in a previous project.) The bottom left terminal (J2) has a red 90 degree spade connector which is the fan power wire. Grab it carefully with fingers or a pair of pliers and pull it off the terminal.

You can mark the cover as I did with a silver Sharpie to help you remember how it comes off the next time. Also notice that there are TWO glass fuses (3 amp and 5 amp) which are visible in the pictures above and to the right of the J2 terminal They have translucent rubber covers to keep off moisture. It would be good idea to blow this whole area clean with compressed air if you have it.

If my fridge cools adequately without the fan I will leave it this way. If it struggles I will remove the two louvered covers on hot days to increase natural airflow. I will be able to test it by mid-summer. Maybe I will have to remove the fridge after all...

One way you can check is to heat that up with a heat gun (not a hair dryer) and see if the fan kicks on while running on AC power with your switch tuned to ON. I partially blocked off the vent and let the propane burner light off, but I can in no way recommend that risky process! A heat gun is way safer.

Good luck, and thanks very much for posting that pic of the Oliver Installed Fan. PS Your rubber fan mounts have failed, you should see if Oliver can send you some replacements, otherwise it could break loose and flop around, damaging coils and stuff. Plus the red wire needs to have some protection like high temperature split loom, or at least secure it somehow. That is a hot area, I am not sure why it runs that direction.That is where the propane burner exhaust goes upwards. If that is the fan power wire, it could have shorted out and popped the fan fuse. Did you already check it?

We have hull 178 delivered in Oct. 2016. It has the manual switch and is a simple circuit, On or Off. We turn the fan On during hot days if the refer. needs the help keeping the inside temp where we want it. You can hear the fan come on and feel the very warm exhaust air coming out of the top exterior vent. The fan gets turned Off when the exhaust air out of the top vent gets back to a normal range.

I'm in the same boat as George and with hull # 117 am a bit closer to Wayfinder's hull #. I think that I remember reading about the temperature (in the fridge compartment) that initiates the fan but my Owner's Manual is presently in my Ollie which is in its storage yard. In about a week I'll be at the storage yard and will take a look to see if I can find that reading. However, in the meantime, when I have the fridge fan switch in the "on" position, the fan certainly come on well before external temps are in the 90's and does not shut off until the external temps get at least in the low 70's.

In our earliest 2008/2009 Ollies, there was no fan, neither from Oliver nor Dometic. Some peoole installed small 12 v fans in the upper vent area to exhaust the air over the coils more efficiently. That really helped, especially those folks who camped in the heat. Another reason we prefer moderate elevation, shade of the forest, and shoulder season camping.

I wonder if anyone could help me find a wiring diagram for the 12v circuit for my 2005 Hobby UK 700 SMF caravan?

The Dometic power supply frazzled itself and has been repaired. On reinstalling the supply there are some things not working: the toilet flush; the water level gauge, and the fridge (will not turn on using the on/off button). Strangely the fridge interior light is constantly on. The fridge is plugged in to the 240v supply. All lights are working fine and all 240v sockets, etc are OK as well. I have isolated one cable (with 1 black + 1 white wire inside) which has no effect on any lights when it is disconnected, so I am guessing this could be the supply to the fridge/gauge/flush. A wiring diagram might help me confirm this without dismantling too much first. There was a problem with some cheeky rodents getting in during the winter, and they may well have nibbled some cables around the sink/fridge area where I found them nesting.

Any help or ideas on where to get a diagram would be most appreciated.

My best regards,

The Dometic power supply frazzled itself and has been repaired. On reinstalling the supply there are some things not working: the toilet flush; the water level gauge, and the fridge (will not turn on using the on/off button). Strangely the fridge interior light is constantly on. The fridge is plugged in to the 240v supply. All lights are working fine and all 240v sockets, etc are OK as well. I have isolated one cable (with 1 black + 1 white wire inside) which has no effect on any lights when it is disconnected, so I am guessing this could be the supply to the fridge/gauge/flush. A wiring diagram might help me confirm this without dismantling too much first. There was a problem with some cheeky rodents getting in during the winter, and they may well have nibbled some cables around the sink/fridge area where I found them nesting.

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