Bosch Move 18v

[Bonny Battaglino]

Okay so the story is that i had a s300 turbo on my mack e7350 mechanical and i went up to 20 percent oversized injectors and had a pump guy turn up the pump. I made good power and kept fuel economy descent but i wanted to complete the setup by getting a bigger 427 turbo. I put it on with my same fuel settings and i felt i lost a lil power but still not a slow truck. I then wen

I need to learn how to move the rack forward or backward in case i want to get a smaller turbo housing. Is it as simple as taking the top cover and side cover off and just trying to turn a screw or socket to move the rack forward?

So right now im running 20 percent oversized injectors, a 427-460 turbo and the rack moved all the way forward. Its quick yes, but i think the other pump will allow us to flow match it all and still be healthy.

What does your exhaust temp run and how much boost are you running?If you don't have thoses gauges in it don't play with your engine any more.You now have enough fuel to it to damage the engine if your not carefull.

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I'm working with a Staubli TX60, a CS8C controller and the Staubli Robotics Studio 2013.4.5 software. I am developing my final degree project. The project consist of moving TX60 with a joystick (Logitech 3D Extreme Pro) to simulate a surgeon robot (it's only an approximation). I've manage to move the robot with the joystick, however the movement isn't continuous. The communication channel is a socket in a local network. I read joystick inputs, process data and send by socket to CS8 controller. The controller process data and send movement commands to TX60. The data processing consist in read joystick range in axis and scale this number for increase/decrease movement in robot joint (work in joint mode). The data is converted to string by delimiters and sent to CS8, which after will process string and execute movej command. Furthermore I have a force/torque Schunk FTCL 50-80 sensor for read pressure data and not kill someone during the operation!

Many years ago my colleague attached a 6-DOF force-torque sensor with analog output to the tool flange. He used the V+ command ALTER to effect realtime motion by reading & scaling the signals and changing the TCP location components. He grabbed the EOAT and dragged the robot around with his hand. The current position was updated continuously.

I found in VAL3 manual the respective commands for alter motion in real time. Currently, after doing many tests, the problem is that the commands return errors and I'm unable to see what I'm doing wrong.

When try start alter mode with alterBegin command, this return a -2 error code, as a result, I can not alter the trajectory in real time. It's impossible start alter mode. However, i read val3 manual and not found anything that makes me think that the code is wrong.

Sorry I don't know, I'm no expert on VAL3 alter command.
I do not have a recent VAL3 manual that identifies error code -2.
VAL3 Ref Manual states that the alter function is an option.
Perhaps your controller does not have that alter option installed.
Best path forward is to contact Staubli Applications Engineering Support for answers.

• after enable power, you should put in a wait until powered command, issue an error if not enabled in sufficient time.

• if I was using enable, I would probably start a 2nd task with the purpose of reading & processing your TCP control input signals, then setting appropriate trsf variables. Set in a do-while loop. Then enable this process loop when the altering process starts, bypass the loop when not altered.

As TygerDawg suggested the return code -2 indicates that there's no "alter" option installed.
In order to get alter mode usable, you need to install either the "alter" license or activate the demo license in configuration file /usr/configs/controller.cfx:
Add following line:

I own the Bosch 4100 table saw attached to the portable stand and mount. I've worked with the saw for maybe 3 years without incident, but within the last week the blade adjustment has seized on me several times. I've been thorough in my cleaning of the undercarriage using compressed air and silicone based lubricants. No random wood chip has lodged itself in the gears. I have seen that others online have had this problem with the 4100, but have yet to read or find a fix. By turning the tool upside down and having it rest face down, (table top on the ground) with the assistance of gravity I was able to get the motor to move on its spindles, but in the upright position it consistently gets stuck or seizes.

Bosch is sending me replacement gears for the blade adjustment crank. The service person acknowledged that other owners have had this issue and this seems to be Bosch's standard "fix", but I am skeptical. The gears are made of plastic unfortunately, and it seems reasonable that they would wear, but my gears seem to move freely in accordance with the crank, but they just aren't able to push the saw and motor north and south on the spindles.

My 4100 blade adjustment just suddenly stopped responding. The gears are turning, and if I reference the diagram that wingless posted, the rod #58 turns - although only if I use a socket wrench to turn the end of it by grabbing the #64 lug nuts. The blade adjustment goes up and down (what I presume is #201) but the blade does not raise or lower, it's just stuck in the highest position.

The saw is not even a year old, and unfortunately Bosh's service is horrendous, they're asking me to ship the saw to a small repair shop across town by FedEx. I have half a mind to sell the saw as-is, try to recoup my losses and go with something better built.

I have had a similar problem. The first time it happened I was in the middle of a project so I flipped it upside down and did a quick cleaning of the plastic/nylon gears and the threaded rod that raises and lowers the blade. After it happened to me a second time I did a little more complete job. The first thing that I noticed was that the crank handle will fail before any real damage is done. The handle just spun on the shaft. Not sure if this is part of the design or just lucky. The gears and the threaded rod (58) were caked with saw dust and after I cleaned them both up along with the guide rods (56) I lubricated everything with a spray silicon lubricant. I will keep an eye on it to make sure that the silicon is sufficient to keep the gears in good shape. My hope is that the silicon lubricant works and it should keep saw dust from building up in the gears and the threaded rod.

I talked to my technical support and they reported this is a common problem with the Bosch portable table saw. I agree with the post above but you can take out the #56 guide rods they have C clips on both ends that have to be first removed. On the gear side the gear attached to #58 has to be removed first by knocking out the pin that holds the gear in place. The blade has to be at a 45 degree angle to move the shaft out to get the gear off. once the gear is off you can remove that #56 shaft on that side. I always left one #56 guide rods in place so that the motor doesn't drop out. I don't think it matters what side you do first. I cleaned any grit of the shaft and clean out the shaft guide holds with a brush and isopropyl alcohol. They also told me you may have to change out the gears and shaft if they are damaged or corroded. I think spraying the guide rods (56) with a silicon spray is a good idea and always blow the dust of when completing the days work so it doesn't set up. Kind of a pain in the you know what but that probably what it takes for me to maintain and keep the saw working smoothly.

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