Bs-c101 Star Drivers Download

[Paskasi Coppola]

Whenyou connect the scanner to the USB port, Windows will try to install this as an HID, but it takes an unusually long time, about 7-8 seconds, to start up the device and install the drivers and comes up as unknown device in windows "devices and printers" And the hand scanner is not working.

when configuring the barcode scanner, I need to choose whether the device will use USB KBD interface, meaning that the device will be detected by Windows as a USB keyboard.

The driver you are referring to is if you choose to configure the barcode scanner as a virtual COM port over USB. for example, POS systems.

For all systems, the correct USB driver for the default USB-KBD interface is included in the host operating system and will either be loaded or cancel or will be unwrapped by the OS and Should Therefore be selected from the dialg box (the first time only)

Then I would point out that the same barcode scanner works just fine in USB KBD mode without using a USB hub to our other HP computers, such as

Hewlett-Packard HP Compaq 6005 Pro MT PC with the same operating system that is Windows7- Pro x64

I have also tried to put the barcode scanner to the USB-COM interface mode and installed the drivers as you point out,

The barcode scanner is a bit easier to establish contact with the PC but it dosn't handle it everytime i test to plug un the usb cable int to the computer.

When we connect the computer to a USB docking station and then connect the scanner to the docking station its works perfectly but when connected directly to the computer it doesn't. (Same as the USB-hub.)

We have tested the scanner with several computers and the older computers do not have this problem but the Revolve 810 does. We have a lot of these computers in our school and need to use the Heron D130 bascode scanners we have. If I buy a completely new scanner it seems as if it needs less power and works but this is not possible for us to do at this moment.

For adjusting brightness, a simple way and what is often done is to have a fixed boost voltage, run the LED across a current limiting resistor, and then use a FET and PWM to control LED brightness. This works OK, but due to the V_fwd inconsistencies of LEDs, this can lead to widely differing LED brightness. In addition, PWM generates flashing/strobe effects, which is not as pleasant as a true constant-current limiting circuit. After some thinking, I came up with a simple method - the LED I_fwd current is constantly sampled across a small current-sense resistor. This value is then amplified via a digitally variable amplifier (controlled via an Attiny84A) and fed into the boost power circuit. The boost circuit then regulates the voltage to maintain the desired current!

Next for programmability, I decided to go for an Atmel ATtiny84A instead of an Attiny85 due to the fact that it came in a very small 3x3mm QFN package, has EEPROM for storage of memory modes, allows me to use the hobbyist-friendly Arduino environment for sharing / open-source, and comes with a lot more GPIO for additional features.

These new features includes things like battery sensing (so I can turn off the LED drive if the battery voltage falls too low), as well as real-time temperature sensing for dynamic LED brightness control if it gets too hot.

Next, I used a copper-plate and a large soldering iron to reflow the XML LED off the star-heatsink which came on my cheap Amazon LED flashlight. I replaced it with a 90CRI XHP50 (5700K) LED from Cree. Then I soldered it up to the main driver board. Notice I also reused the spring on the original driver board and moved it over to the new one.

This project turned out to work out quite nicely even though I only spent a short weekend on it! As a result I'm sure there are a lot more improvements and things to change which I can make in upcoming revisions, and I appreciate any thoughts,comments, suggestions and questions!

However if enough people are interested I can find a way to see if I could get a batch of them fabricated, so do let me know! Assembling by hand takes a little too long since soldering does take a while, so I'll have to see what sort of assembly options there are before I can give a price estimate. :) Unfortunately I wasn't able to put up an OSHpark order since the PCB spec is a little smaller than OSHpark... (trace / spacing limitation).

Also, just thought I'd ask - are there any companies whom I might be able to do some sort of collaboration with to offer these for sale who can help with assembly and distribution? I'm just doing this for a hobby and I'd be happy to have people solder up their own drivers but this driver does have a few pretty challenging components to solder due to the small pitch QFN packages.

I specifically designed this (as a quick weekend project!) as a mod for my cheap flashlight from Amazon which only has a single tail-end switch. However this necessarily requires the switch to handle the full current. Fortunately it can be easily modified using the internal boost converter fet as the main switch for true low-current button operation. The Attiny84A is also much more capable than the usual ATtiny85s often used so there's a lot of overhead available. Regardless, I'm very new to the budget/flashlight community so I'd like to understand these kinds of topologies better - do such flashlights have 2 switches? Or just 1 switch having the main power from the battery permanently connected to the driver?

I was able to spend a bit more time to work on the firmware, with the idea of keeping it as simple as possible and avoid making it far too complicated with too many modes. It's still far from complete, but I was able to test basic functionality of different brightness values and under-voltage sensing and protection.

I was also able to run it for a while at its full 18W (6V 3A) output driving the XHP50 LED! The LED (on the 20mm heatsink) gets - extremely hot - really quickly, so the limiting factor of running a XHP50 at its highest power certainly seems to be more of a heatsinking issue than being a challenge for the driver! :) The LED is of course, very beautiful and bright!

To answer your question, most flashlights have a reverse-click switch on the tailcap that handles the full current. The other common type is an e-switch, where a single low-current electronic switch (often side mounted near the driver end) controls the modes with the battery permanently connected, variations on the theme include having 2 buttons or a magnetic ring as a switch.

There are some rarer lights with the e-switch mounted on the end, but these require a carrier for the battery with a separate signal wire going to the tailcap.

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