You may have a color management mish-mash in your VueScan and Windows XP system. It's easy to get that muddled, and your VueScan output could be an image scanned into a large color space (say Adobe RGB), and then interpreted by software that doesn't have color management, and thus being displayed as sRGB, which would definitely deflate the colors. If you're not using color management, stick with sRGB. (But a monitor calibrator should be your first purchase after a film scanner, otherwise you're in your own little universe of color interpretation.)
I'd suggest looking at the preview histogram and grabbing the blackpoint slider and moving it to the right some. Don't cut too far in to the image detail, you should see a point in the image where your blacks come to life but your shadows don't block up. With enough experience you can begin to do this without even looking at the image many times. Just watch the histogram.
I find that using the 'Generic' setting and following the 'advanced workflow' as per the user guide gives the best results with Vuescan. Using any of the built-in film profiles for me gives very low contrast and washed out colours, not to mention far too bright images. Generic is more contrasty, with the histogram spread over a wider range, and brightness is for the most part spot-on.
My workflow is this: Set black and white points at 0% so there is no clipping (this will give a flat looking scan but the whole density range will be captured), set Colour Balance to White Balance, set film to 'Generic', follow 'advanced workflow' to set exposure and film-base colour, then scan the whole roll with those settings. In Photoshop, an 'Auto Levels' with black/white clipping set to around 0.1% followed by applying an 'S' shaped curve makes the images look a lot better.
I seem to get my best results with color balance set to none, as per the Dale Cotton tutorial linked above. I used the advance workflow to scan a black frame and set the film base colors, downloaded and set an .icm profile for the scanner, tweaked a few other Vuescan settings, and set up a workflow in Photoshop to massage the Vuescan scans after they're done.
i recently bought a minolta dimage scan, and its been a real pain to get it to run well. i had issues with the calibration that i think i fixed and now im getting proper focus and alignment in my scans and nothing weird on that front; however, the colour is so strange. ive used vuescan with a nikon 9000 at school during my studies and i have never had anything go this weird on me. i know the colour is never spot on when scanning but im getting a heavy green cast in the blacks of the film border as well as on the mask itself that is suposed to be pure black. it shows up as green pixels or specks like if the scanner just picked up an excess of information in the green. the image itself is being affected by it but only in close to the edge i believe and in the shadows and blacks.
i got an it8 target a friend and tried to profile the scanner within vuescan as the other ways i read about where complicated and dididnt really work out for me, but still the colour shift is very minimal and the green is still there.
im reinstalling vuescan to see if that helps.... if not ill try silverfast so i can confirm if its the software or the scanner itself. the image looks decent at that size but if you zoom in even just a bit you see that the green pixels are in the shadows on the image as well and not just on the border.
An after thought. You may need an older version of Vuescan that is more compatible with your operating system. The newest version sometimes does not work well. You may need to turn off your antivirus software before installing the scan software also.
i did reinstall vuescan and it changed the preview completely, not sure if its better or worse. when i reinstall i get a "regular green" but the image looks faded and not very acurate. after i calibrate the scanner through vuescan the green turns pixelated and the colours looks genraly better but the green spills into the image.
On the very first scan attempt with Nikon Scan it solved a problem that I have on over 100 slides. I had been battling with this problem for a long time, without a satisfactory solution (because of my own limited understanding/ability). Nikon Scan delivered an acceptable result (far, far better than any of my efforts) on the first pass.
I'd like to know if anyone has tried "scanning" film with their digital camera, and taking the image into Vuescan with good results. I've only scratched the surface so far by taking a Lightroom processed DNG into Vuescan and just messing around a little bit. Haven't had a chance to go deep and get a perfect image. Also, I'd like to step away from Lightroom as a proxy film developer software, since the controls are a little clunky after flipping the negative and stretching the histogram. I'd like to use a program MEANT for film conversion! I'd like to read other user's experiences with DSLR scanning and use with Vuescan!
3:26PM, 1 April 2016 PST(permalink)
I have never considered using scanning software for anything else than reading the data off the source with as much fidelity as possible.
The settings for sharpening and noise reduction in scanner software is often reduced to "None, Low, Medium, High" or similar.
The fact that sharpening can be done in so many ways with tuning to match the image content makes it clear that the above is nothing else than moot. note: The same is valid for noise reduction
Originally posted 93 months ago. (permalink)
Hannu_E_K edited this topic 93 months ago.
I've tied it , it works if you take the digital raw and convert directly to DNG or tiff without any adjustments or inversions. Warning Vuescan doesn't seem to recognize every form of the DNG wrapper. But for c41 negatives while the colour correction can be decent the results can be noisy.
For myself with c41 I have worked out a way to get good colors without noise but feel there must be a better less convoluted way.
Originally posted 93 months ago. (permalink)
Metrix X edited this topic 93 months ago.
Hey everyone, I just tried the trial version of Vuescan with the settings exactly as above, but I too have the problem that people above me have encountered: the DNG created by Vuescan does not have infrared cleaning applied. I see the scanner scan twice on the screen - once for the negative, once for the IR mask - but the DNG file does not seem to have any cleaning.
I use a Nikon LS-50 (Coolscan V) scanner with Vuescan software. The information that I give below should work perfectly for any Nikon Scanner, and should be pretty close with other film scanners. I use Vuescan, rather than Nikon's scanner software, because Nikon stopped supporting Nikon Scan years ago. It tends to be unstable on later versions of PowerPC OS-X and Windows, and will not work at all on the Intel Macs and Apple Silicon Macs. My instructions below are for the Professional Version of Vuescan, using the advanced control set. Vuescan's Mac and Windows versions are identical, so these settings work on either OS.
You must do the preview scan before you can set the focus point. On the preview, you will see a circle with crosshairs in it. Move this with your mouse to set the focus point. You'll usually want to find a focus point in the area around the center of the image. If the film is not perfectly flat (and mounted slides often aren't), choosing a focus point near the edges of the image can make the center out of focus.
-Multisampling: This improves dark tone noise in dense slides. It also increases scan times. I don't use it for photos that are mostly light or middle tones, but ones with lots of dark tones, or that are underexposed, can benefit from it. Try 2 or 4 times multisampling as a starting point. Note that 2x sampling doubles scan times and 4x quadruples them.
-Infrared Clean: Infrared cleaning removes dust and scratches. You should try to keep your slides scratch-free and you should clean them as well as you can before scanning, but this does work well for those with scratches or embedded dust.
Unsharp masking is usually used for sharpening, but it can be used to increase midtone contrast without affecting the highlights and shadows much. This is done by setting the unsharp mask filter to a very wide RADIUS setting, with a relatively low AMOUNT setting. I used 38.4 as my radius setting and 19% as the amount setting. Threshold is set to 0.
I use an old Brother MFC-8480DN as my scanner. When I upgraded to Big Sur from High Sierra, I found out that Brother no longer supported it. My only way to scan to my computer was to use Preview. That worked, but I was not as happy with as I was with the old Brother Control Center. (After a month two, when my wife got a new MacBook Pro, I upgraded to Monterey.) I then read this thread and decided to try VueScan. I tried it and was so impressed with it that I turned around and bought it. Thanks to everyone for sharing.
I have been using VueScan for many years with a very old UMAX firewire scanner (with a chain of adapters to USB-C) and with Mac OS versions from Pre OS9 to the current macOS 12.3.1 with an Apple Silicon MacBook Pro. VueScan works perfectly.
But are you better off using the software that came with your scanner, or should you shell out for a third-party alternative to get the best results? Before I rolled up my sleeves and started scanning, I wanted to answer this question for myself.
All three applications were tested with Windows 10 version 1909 on a 2018 Dell XPS 15 9570 alongside an Epson Perfection V850 Pro scanner. SilverFast SE Plus costs $99, although it was included free in the bundle with our Epson V850 Pro. VueScan Professional, meanwhile, is ordinarily $99.95.
As is often the case with software from hardware manufacturers, Epson Scan's Professional Mode user interface feels quite dated and somewhat unintuitive. It's split across five floating control panels that, together, don't leave much room to preview your slides, yet still offers fewer controls than its third-party rivals.
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