footwear terminalogies

[Neo]

Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA
midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface
for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is
inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material
of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole
board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical
hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used
commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good
cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used
commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer
(compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature
webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use
on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by
machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the
last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide
cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue
to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-
woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or
cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a
different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use
on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used
to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5
colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched
around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for
more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor,
retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an
existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There
is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In
some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of
those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a
product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market
demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more
brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so
the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component
stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used
for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay,
logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from
a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable
construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round
natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.