Insane levels of bed adhesion

[David Ramsey]

I'm printing copper Filamet™ with my Makergear M2, on an aluminum bed with a PEI surface. Extruder temp 205, bed temp 50.

I'm getting absurd levels of bed adhesion: it's as if the models-- which print fine, BTW-- are epoxied to the bed surface. Even a 2cm calibration square has to be pried off with a razor blade, and is warped and cracked due to the effort required. Larger models must be removed in broken chunks, even after cold-soaking in a freezer. I've checked all the settings, and even gone back to printing with straight PLA, which works fine.

Should I try going back to the stock glass bed? Is PEI contra-indicated? As it is now I can't really print anything with this filament.

[David Ramsey]

Printing on top of blue tape as suggest via email (although, oddly, not here) made removing the model without destroying it possible. However, it was very difficult and required much care, not to mention tedious removal of blue tape stuck to the bottom of the model. Oh well...different filaments, different procedures!

[Lofton Harris]

I've not experienced this problem...so far. I use Buildtak on my print bed with good (but not too good) print adhesion on the Cu-PLA Filamet. Is it possible that your extruder nozzle is set too close to the print bed? I use an index card to set my nozzle height and that works well for me. Some folks say you should use Post-It note paper but I think that's too thin. Just a thought.

[David Ramsey]

The extruder height seems fine to me, judging by the appearance of the first layer. I have no real problems with PLA. I suspect it's just that this filament sticks to heated PEI really, really well.

[Bradley D. Woods]

This is part of the reason that Filamet does not warp like plastic. You will get similar levels of adhesion even without a heated bed.

Your best bet is blue painters tape, and a thin metal spatula to slide under the print.

-TVF

[Pierre-François MONET]

I just made my first Filamet Copper print today, printing was good, even excellent, however the print was cracked trying to remove it from the plate.
I was printing with an Ultimaker3 , the building plate is a glass , the parameters were :
Print temp 205°C
Plate temp 60°C
Print speed 50mm/s
Print acceleration 1600mm/s

The printed object was so strongly attached to the glass plate that even with a razor blade the base cracked during the tentative to disassemble it from the plate.
This was done after the building plate temperature came down to 25°C

So is there a good solution to have the object remaining well attached during the printing to be removed much more easily at the end ?
One thing you have to know that the surface of the face against the glass plate must remain absolutly intact