Ike63471fb Manual

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Celedonio Miranda

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Aug 4, 2024, 11:37:05 PM8/4/24
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Width and depths in centimetres. These are claimed dimensions. Ventilation dimensions below and behind are not listed as they vary greatly depending on whether the cooktop is being installed over cabinetry shelves, drawers, or an oven. Check with the manufacturer or the installation manual to make sure your set-up complies with requirements before buying.


The manufacturer states the necessary dimensions required to install the cooktop. Induction cooktops use a lot of energy and therefore can require special power connections. It's best to hire a licensed electrician to install your cooktop.


Necesita un manual para su AEG IKE63471FB Placa? A continuacin puedes ver y descargar el manual en PDF gratis en espaol. Este producto actualmente tiene 4 preguntas frecuentes, 0 comentarios y tiene 2 votos con una calificacin promedio de producto de 0/100. Si este no es el manual que desea, , contctenos.


Entendemos que es bueno tener un manual en papel para tus AEG IKE63471FB Placa. Siempre puedes descargar el manual desde nuestro sitio web e imprimirlo t mismo. Si deseas tener un manual original te recomendamos contactar con AEG. Es posible que puedan proporcionar un manual original. Ests buscando el manual de tu AEG IKE63471FB Placa en otro idioma? Elija su idioma preferido en nuestra pgina de inicio y busque el nmero de modelo para ver si lo tenemos disponible.


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After downloding the installation PDF, I've found that they are saying we need a 55mm gap between the cutout and the splashback. Our benchtop is only quite small and we only have a 30mm gap, meaning there'd be a 15mm gap between the cooktop and the splashback.


I know with gas cooktops you have to have a certain gap between the centre of the rear burner and the splashback, but I cannot find anything about that in relation to induction (electric in general). Our old cooktop was electric had been there for 20 years.


There are no specific requirements for the installation of electric hotplates in AS/NZS 3000 but it is noted generally that electrical equipment, including appliances should be installed to ensure there is no danger of fire or high temperature.


Potentially but I suspect unlikely. Many many fridges in Australia are kept in a cabinet that don't meet the required around the edges. 50mm->30mm It wouldn't be a big worry for me but its certainly a point worth mentioning for the OP to consider.


Completely agree. Even with a gas cooktop it's a non issue. Most of these old kitchen have existing gas cooktops in any case without issues. Can get a little annoying with big pots hitting the splashback, not sure if an extra 20-25mm would solve that problem though.


It may be an issue if you have a drawer directly below the cooktop in which case a deflector normally gets installed to direct the airflow to the rear of the cabinet rather than directly over the contents of the drawer.


Not sure what you mean here. The electrical rules are pretty clear what is required with an induction cooktop. Generally speaking with a normal 900mm induction cooktop, you would require a dedicated circuit for the cooktop fitted with a 32A circuit breaker and 6mm2 cabling run.


The electrician should also install an isolation switch nearby the cooktop to allow for switching off the power to the cooktop in an emergency. Probably not a rule in the past and the existing cooktop circuit probably doesn't have one installed. However, it is required under today's rules.


I had my kitchen completely renovated 2 years ago. Had new circuit to the meter box and isolation switch near the cooktop. My cooktop (Bosch) is only just under 20mm from the edge of the cooktop to the splashback.


There is however space at the back of the cooktop with no ring and if you measure from where the closest 'ring' begins, it is almost 60mm from the splashback. The kitchen company I used had all the installation guides and the electrical devices to give to the cabinet makers so the ovens, cooktop, rangehood, etc. fitted perfectly.


Because there is unused black glass spacing at the back of the cooktop, I don't have any problems with large pots as this space at the back compensates for the lack of bench space at the back to the splashback (which is tiled). Mine is only a four burner with a bridging connection between two rings on the left.


So we've upgraded the wiring even though we didn't really need to. We already had an isolation switch in the kitchen for the old stove, so that's OK. And the 50mm clearance wasn't an issue as we have plenty of space (according to the installer).


Every single cooktop is designed to be able to operate on top of an oven. This is 90% of the kitchen layout out there.

They all in their installation manual recommend that there's an opening between the oven and the cooktop at the front.


Speaking with a repair tech, they suggested that it's VERY important to consider if steamy/salty vapor from an oven underneath may get to the cooktop

Our oven is wall mounted on a completely different part of the kitchen. Our crockery drawer and pot drawer is below the stove.

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