In the sneaker world, the term 'bootleg' typically means an illegally produced knock-off that blatantly rips off an existing design purely in the name of easy profit. That's not all it means, however. In 2006, NYC-based designer Ari Saal Forman took bootlegs into new territory with the Menthol 10s: a controversial sneaker based on Nike's immortal Air Force 1 silhouette.
If you take Nike & Sachs at their word that the Mars Yard is meant to be GROUND INTO DUST thru active wear, as the marketing around the shoe claims, (and which is how we should ideally approach most jawns) then which are you likelier to actually wear the f**k out of: the $5000 grail or the $49 bootleg?
The recent news possibly implicating nike execs in resale schemes kinda fits into why category 5 exists imo. If nike doesn't want me to have the 2.0s at msrp then why not get the almost as good fakes for even less.
\u201CHm,\u201D I said to myself. \u201CWhen are bootlegs cool? When are they depressing? And where do my new FAKE MARS YARDS fit into the equation??\u201D
The appeal with \u201Cfreaked\u201D bootlegs is that they are clearly NOT authentic but still look fresh as f**k \u2014 so fresh, in the Gucci sweatshirt case, that the brand \u201Cco-opted\u201D the bootleg graphics for official releases a couple years back.
Speaking of folk-art-type bootleg freakage, there\u2019s a cool tradition in parts of Africa of hand-painted movie posters promoting Hollywood blockbusters \u2014 these are treasures, Google them if yr unfamiliar!! Also, when we interviewed 18 East\u2019s Antonio Ciongoli, he put us on to the WILD history of quasi-\u201Cknockoff\u201D Jeanneret chairs produced by local Indian governments inspired by Le Corbusier\u2019s work in the city of Chandigarh.
Bootleg-tee over-saturation is as real as graphic-tee fatigue generally, but gems still rise to the surface, featuring fire designs / surprising \u201Ccuratorial\u201D choices. Peace to SpyFriend Edgar Gonzelaz of And After That, who makes fire designs using both original and \u201Cfound\u201D imagery (and who devotes 100% of his proceeds to mutual aid for undocumented people). From the Freezer makes & catalogs the broader universe of Vampire Weekend bootlegs, which flip I.P. ranging from Sonic the Hedgehog to the Sherwin-Williams logo. Mythic Bootleg Tees hand-draws cool 1/1 art-themed tees; artist Visitor Design has fulfilled dozens of custom-bootleg requests via his Instagram page, asking only the price of shipping for them, as part of a project; and Fraser Croll crafts bootleg heaters in homage to everything from the \u201892 Cannes Film Festival and \u201895 Source Awards to Cruel Intentions and Oasis.
Meanwhile, Jaimus Tailor of London\u2019s Greater Goods \u2014 a GORPY-UPCYCLING spiritual descendant of Dapper Dan \u2014 cuts actual old Arc\u2019teryx pieces into new silhouettes (and also makes beautiful hand-knit balaclavas with his girlfriend), and Spyfriend Sam Jayne of Jam devised an Arc\u2019teryx yin-yang logo flip so dope that this past weekend Arc\u2019teryx itself put out a capsule release where Sam heat-transfered his yin-yang and other motifs onto actual Arc joints\u2026 One of those (decreasingly?) rare times when a freaked bootleg achieves paradoxical \u201Cofficial\u201D status.
These kinds of bootlegs can verge on unrockably kitschy, but every now & then u will come across a \u201Clovable clumsy\u201D knockoff & savor it as deeply as any \u201Creal\u201D treasure u own.
These are the worst kind of bootleg. They are what you find when U search eBay for, like, a Paul Simon Graceland tee and instead of a vibey original there\u2019s an ocean of s**tty reprints to drown in \u2014 Naomi Fry recounted this exact bummer when we interviewed her.
BY THE WAY, this isn\u2019t even about \u201Clegality\u201D: Depressing grift-bootlegs are ALSO what you find when u search for a vintage WU-TANG TEE and there\u2019s a bunch of licensed reprints cranked out by like Uniqlo or Urban Outfitters or some weird IG-timeline-type streetwear brand\u2026 Just \u2018cause some people with $$$ purchased a license doesn\u2019t change the fact that the resulting reprints have NO HEART.
Another kind of depressing grift-bootleg is exemplified by these fake JJJJound 992s I came across the other day. It\u2019s wild that if these said, like, \u201CJJoundo\u201D on the back, or if the \u201CN\u201D was backwards, they would be classic \u201CLOVABLE CLUMSY\u201D kings chilling in category No. 3.
But NO! Instead they aim for verisimilitude, fall short, and suuuuck. Ditto counterfeit \u201Cstatus GORP\u201D (like in the bootleg-Arc detail below right.) At least if u bought, like, a fake $100,000 Patek World Time wristwatch for $100 it\u2019d be kind of funny \u2014 but middling replicas of hyped garments aren\u2019t even funny, they\u2019re just sad !!
The only appeal of getting authentic JJJJounds (besides letting ppl know u scored rare sneakers) is 1. the materials and 2. the colors \u2014 but on the fakes, the materials and colors are wrong (along with the d*mn color cracking off the \u201CN\u201D already in the seller pics) so literally the ONLY remaining reason as to why yr copping them is as a poorly executed shortcut to \u201Cfree clout,\u201D which is a major cornball mentality that highlights the hollowness at the core of a vast swath of non-bootleg purchases, too\u2026
AND YET \u2014 there is a 5th and final type of bootleg. U most typically encounter it in music \u2026 i.e., a release goes out of print (like the excellent 1987 Hiroshi Yoshimura album embedded below, one CD of which is on Discogs for $300) and the only way to hear it is either thru a bootleg recording, a .zip file / YouTube rip, or dropping $$$ on an OG pressing if yr lucky enough to find one. Ditto when a band\u2019s fans circulate bootleg recordings of live shows, out of a NOBLE and LOVING impulse toward community and preservation.
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