CFP: Thematic issue on textiles for Perspective. La revue de l¹INHA
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Perspective. La revue de l’INHA Call for papers for a thematic issue on textiles (2016-2, December)
The forthcoming thematic issue of Perspective. La revue de l’INHA
(slated for publication in December 2016 and conceived jointly with the
Mobilier national and the Manufactures nationales) will be devoted to
textiles across different periods and different places of production and
use.
The double purpose of this issue is to bring together
articles that represent the state of recent – or even ongoing (in the
case of Switzerland, Germany and France) – research, while at the same
time following single diachronic threads: from medieval embroidery to
Louise Bourgeois’s arachnid works, from the ornamentation of the body in
antiquity to the Silk Road… It will provide an occasion to examine the
textile craft as portrayed by Diego Velázquez in Las Hilanderas
(1657, Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado); indeed, this seminal painting
from the artist’s abundant oeuvre inspires precisely the sort of
innovative study that considers the notion of textile as a metaphorical
and intermedial space, whereby the canvas reveals itself as both surface
and subject.
While textiles offer art history a plethora of
objects and subjects, the field must also open itself to
interdisciplinary dialogue involving labor history, gender studies, and
museum studies, as well as material culture studies, postcolonial
studies, economic history, and geopolitics, especially as it relates to
the procurement of raw materials. Art history is similarly strengthened
when it brings scientific and technical history to bear on the
fabrication of hand-made or industrial artifacts. The history of
artisans and other agents, from producers to consumers, also offers
particularly rich areas of study, on topics ranging from the Cévennes
weavers of yesteryear to today’s Bangladeshi textile workers to visitors
at the Centre national du costume de scène (National Center for Stage
Costumes) in Moulins. In the context of a denationalized history of art,
it is possible to examine – to name just a few – the industry of
Indian-inspired cotton fabrics in eighteenth-century Europe, the
international distribution in the twentieth century of ready-made
clothing manufactured in China, or the many avatars of African textiles
that reappear, for example, in the contemporary art of Yinka Shonibare,
but that can also be traced through the long history of Benin appliqué
cloths or the appropriation of ancestral textile practices in
contemporary art of the Maghreb.
The issue will delve into the
worlds of cultivation (sowing and harvesting), manufacture (weaving,
dyeing, tailoring), and local and international commerce, and, more
generally, examine the manifold uses of textiles in all periods and in
all the corners of the globe. Artists have constantly been reinventing
their relationship to textility as both ideal and material, from
Mesoamerican feather cloth to Jana Sterbak’s Flesh Dress, not to mention
the well-established archetypal relationship with abstract painting.
Finally, a diachronic exploration of the history of textile institutions
is also encouraged, ranging from centuries-old traditional manufactures
to franchised fashion institutes such as the Parsons The New School for
Design, now established in New York, Paris, and Shanghai. Similarly,
much can be gained from looking more closely at museums involved in the
conservation, restoration, or exhibition of textiles, or even the
re-creation of old textiles and the commissioning of contemporary
creations (Aubusson, Beauvais, The Gobelins).
These numerous
topics (textile archeology, printed embroidery materials, theories of
the arabesque, sampling processes, etc.) and objects (wall hangings,
rugs, lace, clothing, upholstery, stage props, sculpted draperies, and
so on) represent a variety of leads that Perspective wishes to
explore. The thematic issue on textiles will comprise articles
representing multiple forms and contents. Proposals may fall into one of
two categories: either a synthetic article highlighting a particular
aspect of textiles (25,000 characters/4,000 words) or a
historiographical study concentrating on a specific medium, territory of
production, or historical period whose textile specificity (in terms of
materials, style, etc.) remains to be defined (45,000 characters/7,000
words).
This call for papers does not aim to cover all of the
projected subjects. All submissions are therefore welcome, although we
wish to favor, as far as possible, a trans-chronological approach.
Submissions will be examined by the editorial committee for the issue,
which includes Marc Bayard, Marion Boudon-Machuel, Catherine Breniquet,
Pascale Charron, Rossella Froissart, Charlotte Guichard, Rémi Labrusse,
Anne Lafont, Johanne Lamoureux, Philippe Malgouyres, Sara Martinetti,
Nicole Pellegrin, Zahia Rahmani, Katie Scott, Philippe Sénéchal,
Philippe Thiébaut, Merel van Tilburg, and Tristan Weddigen.
Please send submissions (a 2000-3000 character/300-500 word abstract and a 2-3 line biography) to revue-pe...@inha.fr by March 31, 2015.