Super Fujica-6

[Miqueo Snyder]

Ineed to get the top off of a Super Fujica-6 in order to clean and align the rangefinder. I have removed the four screws and the eyepiece. The only part left is the wind knob. It is a silver disk above the frame counter.

I can see no set screws inside or outside of the camera. Nothing hidden inside the frame counter dial. Trying to unscrew the spool tab axle from the knob, as with a 35mm film rewind assembly, is not working (I am applying as much force as I am comfortable with, and breaking this part off is the end of the camera, so maybe it is just a question of more force?).

Here is a site that shows some good photos of the camera and the top plate removed. As you can see, the shutter release collar and the wind release button stay on the top. Since Flickr seems to not allow links, I've butchered this link to see if it gets past their censor. remove

tokyo-camera-repair.com/fujifilm-super-fujica-6-20200706/

Any one know how to get that knob off? Thanks.

Originally posted at 3:44AM, 14 September 2020 PDT(permalink)

ddandan edited this topic 47 months ago.

Thank you, Hans. I have seen the 4 tabs and tried every variation I can of alignment, and nothing moves. I notice that two of the tabs above the counter dial have threaded holes. But the wind knob itself is a solid aluminum disk, at least as visible from the top and sides. Inside the camera below this area, there are no access points, secret plug holes, or such, to get access to the underside of the counter mechanism and knob.

I find it hard to believe that this is simply a press fit- the knob is pressed down onto the center axle. Too critical a part and subject to regular use. Also installing/removing/re-installing would require applying pressures in a very dangerous manner, seems to me.

EDIT: Slid a piece of heavy paper into the gap between the knob and the body. It it goes in to about the location of the main wind axle. Rotating the piece of paper around the knob indicates that there are no screws or such at, say, the tab locations. the paper rides a constant distance. So it appears to be a simple central axle attachment point. Maybe press fit is it??

Well, some day I might figure it out or find out the answer. I'll use the dirty viewfinder and slight rangefinder misalignment as they are until then.

Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

ddandan edited this topic 47 months ago.

ddandan:

That is a pity Dan !

But sometimes it is better too wait till you can contact somebody with real experience with this camera.

Guess with these expensive quality cameras the Winder Knob will just be screwed onto the Axis. I tried to see that on an enlargement of the repair photo but it is not detailed enough in the Axis area. Might be that the threads of Knob and Axis fused a bit together but it will be hard to apply some WD-40 micro injections to that area. You might try some heat though, e.g. with a Hairdryer and see if that helps but knowing you you probably already have done that.

.

47 months ago(permalink)

I'm really curious about the black round thing to the left of the top in the photograph. Is it possible that the wind knob comes apart and that's part of it? No, it can't be so.

47 months ago(permalink)

I did a bit of work on mine but I didn't need to clean the RF. It's an odd camera, nicely made but I couldn't find any collimation adjustment, I had ot shim the shutter out from the front standard in the end. Anyhoo the RF is adjusted (once you have collimated) via the screw in 5th photo on that page, with the red circle drawn around it. Mine had a lock screw in front of the adjuster screw, which foxed me at first.

47 months ago(permalink)

bikeguruuk: Good to know about the lock screw. It aligns at infinity fine. And throughout its range, the rangefinder and a film plane ground glass are in agreement.

It is off in vertical alignment. And honestly, I am not thrilled by the dark red filter over the rangefinder window. Maybe 3-d glasses were all the rage, so Fujica thought it would be cool to do a red/blue image split? I want to remove the red if possible, maybe go for a simple light yellow to match the slight blue of the main image.

Well, no solution for the knob. I tried some slow prying up around the cirumference; the knob will tilt a but but does not seem to want to come up and off. Closer looking at the center of winding tab that goes in to the film spool itself showed that it might be a small screw holding it in place. But it won't budge.

Ah well.... Nice lens! And viewfinders are highly overrated. Point in the general direction and just fire the shutter, eh?

Originally posted 47 months ago. (permalink)

ddandan edited this topic 47 months ago.

Shortly you will get at least several responses saying that folders are nothing but trouble and you should steer clear. I disagree. I have about 15 folders as I am somewhat obsessive about them! At present I am a big enthusiast for Japanese 1950's versions. The Japanese manufacturers built their cameras to a high standard. The front standard is far more rigid than most European brands and many of them have coated four element lenses with unit focussing rather than front element focussing.

I suggest you search for the Konica Pearl, Takane Mine, Super Fujica 6 or Mamiya 6. The most compact of these is the Konica, but it is a 645 rather than 6 x 6. All of these have coupled rangefinders (in Konica's case from model II onwards).

Of the European brands, the Voigtlander Bessas are great at 6 x 9 but are pricey. Look out for the Heliar lens here - it's a five element unit focussing model of extremely high quality. The ultimate in compact cameras is the Voigtlander Perkeo which is 6 x 6 - the best lens is the color skopar. It doesn't have a rangefinder though, so you would need to guess the distance or buy a supplemental rangefinder.

Ah yes, folders. They are sweet little gems compared to their big brother MF cameras. What I like is the fact you can put it in your jacket pocket and have that MF format negative with all teh sharpness to boot.

Zenobias are simply beautiful, Zeiss Ikontas with wonderful Tessar lenses, VBoitlander Bessa 66 is such a little lady with a great lens. The 6x9s are a bit larger but not much gain in weight, just size but the negative quality is gorgeous.

Some may need a bit of work since these cameras are old adn haven't been used in some years but that's half the fun. Since most of these old folders can be had relatively cheap, you can own many of em as most of us do.

Shop around, check the classifieds or try hitting some of us camera junkies, we have surplus and are always willing to help another aspiring camera junkie. I have almost 50 of these babies in my closet and am always willing to let a few go to make room for another. You'll understand that when you get a taste of em.

i have a russian moskov 5. it is a 6x9 and it is a good one. sometimes the russian stuff is hit or miss, but this one is excellent. the bellows are light tight, and all the speeds are on. i got it shipped to me for $40, so it was well worth the risk.

I currently use the best folder I've ever owned. The Plaubel Makina 67. I am consistently wowed by what this camera does with my limited abilities. If you are in the position to purchase one you owe it to yourself to check it out.

Another vote for certo6.com. Email Jurgen and buy a camera from him directly. He has already gone through the camera to clean and fix it. This will save you a lot of headaches if you buy a cheaper camera and end up having to do it anyway.

I prefer a Tessar-style coated lens with a Prontor SV or SVS shutter. An uncoupled rangefinder at a minimum. A coupled rangefinder is really nice (more convenient to use). Some collectors drive up the prices of coupled rangefinder cameras, really nice glass like the Heliar, and fancy shutters like the Compur Rapid. Don't compete with them unless you have the money.

I liked my Perkeo II with Color Skopar; very tiny. But it did not have a rangefinder. My Iskra worked wonderfully and had all the best glass, nice shutter, and a coupled rangefinder; but I felt it was bulky and heavy. Others love theirs.

I just bought a Franka Solida II with a Xenar (tessar) lens in a Prontor SVS shutter. It has an uncoupled rangefinder. I just tested it and the shutter works correctly and the rangefinder is accurate. It also looks good. A nice camera that is still remarkably light. A rare combination for an old camera.

I have been debating with myself about getting a Moscow 5 from Jurgen. A coupled rangefinder, tessar lensed folder that takes 6x9 shots. And if Jurgen has already gone through it, I feel better about the reliability of using it.

A lot of great suggestions already. Adding to Brenda's mention of the Agfa, you could also look for an American counterpart to some of the Agfa designs...the Ansco Titan. It has a great Anistigmat lens, solid build quality, and a genuine leather bellows (just like the big boys). It also has a very easy-to-use, color-coded, hyperfocal-focusing scale. Simply lovely.

I agree Jurgen Krekel is a good person to go to. Rather than go to his Ebay auctions it may make sense to go to him directly. Some folders, such as the Bessa II, have become cult cameras and are way overpriced - up near what you'd pay for a Fuji 690. And they aren't equivalent, so that doesn't make sense. However, there are lesser names that can represent great values.

I've had pretty good results from my Iskra, although the double exposure prevention still occasionally gets "confused" even after a CLA by Eddie Smolov (i.e. I occasionally loose a frame or two because the camera will not let me cock the shutter after winding and forces me to skip a frame).

I also use a Kodak Medalist II which is NOT a folder, but, since the lens collapses, it's remarkably compact for a 6 X 9 camera (although it will not fit in most coat pockets). Re-loading 120 film onto 620 spools for this camera is easy, albeit a bit of a PITA--I use the camera MUCH more since I had it converted to 120 by Ken Ruth, but that was co$tly.

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