Download Idle Gears
Niki Debruin
Merging Gears is a fun and addictive clicker game where you must build and operate a gear-based mechanism to earn profits. By adding new gears and increasing the speed of rotation, you can make your mechanisms more efficient and profitable. The game simulates the performance of the mechanism in real-time, allowing players to see how each gear affects the system. Players can reinvest their profits to buy new and more advanced gear and become gear masters in the process.Release DateApril 2023
How much play should there be if any in the kick gear and kick idle gear? In the attachment, the gears are #2 and #8. I had a rattle at idle and was trying to find what it may be. It doesn't happen all the time. I already checked the flywheel and everything appears to be tight on that side. I have pulled the clutch side cover off and noticed both of these gears have play. Thanks.
If the idler gear has very much play it will bind up with the kicker gear when it trys to engage. Causing the c-clip to break off and go into the clutches and tranny. I always replace them if they have very much play in them.
Yeah, I'd replace it...or at least get a new bushing for it. I wouldn't let it stop me from riding this weekend, though. I've had those clips come off several times, and only once did it actually damage anything. The one time was a nightmare, though....idler gear came off and bound between the clutch basket and case, then shot the lockup throught the lexan side cover onto the track at the staging lane, then I coasted past the 60 foot mark.
Update. I had to take another quad up north last weekend. Put everything back together. Started the shee, idled for about 40 seconds and then I heard a clunk. The shee stalled and now I can't move the kick starter. I'm assuming the idler gear found the kick starter gear and is stuck. At least i wasn't ridding it. I will have to take the clutch cover off and replace the idler gear with a new bushing from FAST. Are you able to remove the clutch without the special tool? Thanks.
I have a noise as well, took of clutch basket and the rivets on back were marred up like something was hitting them....only thing it could be is idler gear im guessing, i can wobble mine back and forth....hmmmmmm, but the noise sounds like its coming from top end!
When I was assembling the gear box I realized that the pinion gear is far away from that big gear, is it the idle gear? Either way I have some photos here that demonstrate it better than I can explain. It is an midnight pumpkin KIT.
You are right, I was confused. I did as you told me and it worked better. Howerver, sometimes the pinion gear and spur gear dont align well in particular when the car jumps etc. and makes some cracjling noises as is the gears were getting damaged. Sometimes it is fixed by itself, but a couple of times today I had to realign the pinion gear with the spur gear. Also sometimes the right back wheel falls off even though I have sercured it properly.
hmmm, it still sounds like something is built wrong. You shouldn't need to re align the pinion gear after running the truck. Check the pinion gears location on the motor shaft, and make sure the grub screw is tight. Then, make sure the motor mount plate is fixed tight to the motor in the correct holes. Also, make sure the 2 bolts are located inside the motor mount plate correctly, as these are what the bolts through the gearbox attach to to fit the motor.
I have tried to double check everything. It seems that the gears are aligned correctly, howeer when I removed the motor the pinion gear fell out. I have tighten it as much as I can now. Hopefully that was the source of the problem and now it works better.
The idle problem might be caused by the idle air control (IAC). That part is an electric-operated stepper motor located in the throttle body, whose job is to set the proper idle speed. Those parts tend to get dirty and stick over time. So cleaning it is one place to start with high idle speeds. That part is controlled by the engine computer, which adjusts the idle rpm according to ambient and coolant temperatures. The IAC is also is involved with preventing stalling, in conjunction with the MAP sensor, during decelerations. It also adjusts idle speed for when the engine is loaded by some accessory, say when you turn the AC or headlights on.
Before going to the trouble of cleaning the IAC, might be a good idea to have the engine computer diagnostics codes read first. If you post the codes here, somebody might see something else that could cause a high idle speed.
Tampering with the screw on the throttle body is a bad idea, it will take some skill and patience to set the throttle body minimum air flow back to specs. The idle air control motor is most likely getting stuck at high and low settings causing the engine to race or stall.
Is it just me or has anyone else had the issue where the bike idles normally and then as soon as you pull the clutch in and drop it into first the rpm's rise up to almost 2k. This only happens after its put into gear tho. The idle will stay normal with the lever pulled in until put into first gear. Also the idle stays there when coming to a stop and doesn't go down until you let off the clutch lever in neutral.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this happen on their bike or any other bike. I would suspect clutch adjustment but then wouldn't it happen as soon as the lever is pulled in and not when its put into gear? I'm confused on what could cause this.
I would check the throttle cables are properly adjusted and
look to see if the clutch cable is interfering with it in
any way, look to see if the throttle body end of the cables
move when you pull in the clutch, if the throttle cables are to
tight and the clutch cable is moving it around, other than that the ECU could
be turning up the idle like it does when the engine is cold
but you may need to get it connected to diagnostics to find out
what is going on.
If it were the cables don't you think it would happen as soon as I pull in the clutch lever? The idle only jumps up after I put it in gear. I can pull the clutch lever in and out in neutral with no changes in rpm until it goes into gear. I do have the EJK fuel controller on the bike so I may unplug that and see if it goes away. If not ill have to bring it into the dealer and get it checked out. I just hope they don't say its because of any of the aftermarket parts on the bike.
Akra Ti, EJK, RSC clutch lever and perch.
So something has changed since I last rode it. I took the bike out for a spin and noticed that the idle will jump up only about 100 or 200 rpm when put into gear and now when I take it out of gear it drops back down. This is all with the clutch lever pulled in sitting at a stop. I have no idea lol. Time has run out to try to diagnose it because of the cold sooo I guess I'll see what happens next season. To be continued....
I wanted to make you all aware of an issue I've had in my shop over the last month on a few separate bikes. It seems as though in the 2010 and up RMZ-250's and maybe the 450's (I haven't had one to verify yet) there is an issue with the kick start idle gear part # 26260-49h00. The new gear has a stamped aluminum insert that is separating from the ID of the gear and has caused at least one catastrophic engine failure. The other one I luckily caught in time but it caused a lot of cosmetic damage to the outer clutch hub and wrecked the kick starter retainer clip. If any of you are familiar with the clutch side inner workings, the kick starter idle gear rests between the kick starter and the outer clutch hub. This aluminum piece is stamped into the inside diameter of the gear and is coming loose and playing pinball inside the housing. You can imagine what this could cause. I'm attaching a picture of 1 (2010 model) that was found resting between the clutch hub and main crank gear (it caused the engine failure) and the one that we heard rattling around and caught in time (2013 model less than 15 hours). The gear that it comes from is pictured as well. I'm a Suzuki guy. Always have been but this has been a little tough for me. I've called 2 local support shops, Suzuki NA and the Corporate Office without any help whatsoever. We had a similar issue with the 2013 triple tree offset cracking upper fork tubes and got very little support. If anyone else has seen this or heard about it please let me know. The mangled one from the 10 could have caused someone serious injury had it locked up while racing, jumping, Etc. It's hard for me to believe that I'm the only one who has had this problem but if I am - call me the lucky one I guess. As an FYI, the bike runs great without it and I'm not going to attempt to replace it until I can get some answer as to why and how it's happening. The 2013 was completely factory on that side and still running the factory plates. It had never been opened for any reason. The 2013 was running a Hinson basket that was installed right after purchase and was regularly maintained etc.
I know this is a little old of a post but this just happened to my 07 rmz250. Heard a bit of rattling, took the clutch case cover off and sure enough the plate was rattling around. Is that plate just to stop the idle gear from hitting the clutch?
I have had 2 2013's now with the idler gear issue. It destroyed the gear on the back of the clutch, the idlers and nicked up the oil pump gear. Dealer cost for this stupid gear is ridiculous. The cover keeps the oil behind the gear to lube the shaft. They could have made this gear 1 piece. The heat expansion rate of the 2 different metals is more than likely why they eventually separate. Im going to experiment with the bad one and see if i can make 2 tack welds on the outer side to serve as "stops" so that the cover cant fall off
i also heard some rattling the same day my kickstart spring got locked up in a gear, no engine failure but it locked up my kickstart so i took everything apart. does this idler gear rattling have anything to do with my kickstart return spring failer?
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