Psp Stick Calibration

[Jaunita Rousu]

Thecalibration stick is the most commonly used tool for calibrating the video scale--i.e., the ratio of the world distance in meters (or any desired length unit) to the image distance in pixels between two points. The world length of a calibration stick is displayed in a readout at its center and in a length field on the toolbar. Calibrating the video is simply a matter of setting this world length to a known value--see Calibrating a video for details.

If desired, a ruler can be displayed along the length of the stick as shown in the right image above. To show the ruler, check the Ruler box on the toolbar. For more about rulers, see Adjusting the ruler.

Click the arrow on the Calibration button on the toolbar and select NewCalibration Stick to create a new calibration stick. If desired, you can create more than one stick. Show or hide the calibration stick (along with other calibration tools, if any) by clicking the main part of the Calibration button.

A new calibration stick has default length 1.0 m (you will change this later). The way the stick is marked depends on the option selected in the Tracks tab of the preferences dialog.

To change the world length, click either the readout on the stick or the length field on the toolbar and enter the desired length. You can change the length unit at the same time by including it when entering a world length--see Calibrating a video for an example.

Drag and nudge the ends of the stick to two points in the video that are a known real-world distance apart (ideally these are the ends of a carefully placed "calibration object" in the plane of the motion). Then click the readout of the calibration stick and enter the known real-world distance with or without units (meters is the default).

To change or adjust the video calibration drag the ends of the stick and/or click the readout and enter a new length including units if desired. For example, the image below shows a video calibrated in meters using a white PVC pipe with black stripes every 10 cm. To calibrate in cm, click the readout and enter 30 cm. The length unit will be updated wherever displayed.

To correct for tilt, drag the ends of the calibration stick so that it is parallel to a video feature that is known to be horizontal in the real world. Then enter an angle of zero into the angle field. This will rotate the +x-axis to the true horizontal. (Note: the same procedure can be used to set the +x-axis to any known angle.)

By default, the calibration stick has a fixed position--that is, its end positions are the same in all frames. Uncheck the Fixed checkbox in its track menu to allow the position to vary independently from frame to frame.

After a successful FW update of the system, the Joystick calibration in HereLink Settings does not work. After pressing the HW JS CAL button and pressing the Start Calibration, the black circles will not move anymore. Pressing the Next, the sick movement to the red pointer gives no action. Pressing next again, back to the Start Calibration screen the red circles are centered, black way off and moving the sicks towards the red circles gives unpredictable results. I have to fail the calibration

Sorry took me ages to figure it out As am new to this setup. I changed RC3_MIN to above the neutral point which is 1505 for me. Throttle on ch3 now works on a nudge up to full powers from midpoint any lowers and no throttle.

One thing I noticed is now missing is " Center stick is zero throttle " and " Spring loaded throttle smoothing". Is there any way to use these options in the new version?

Just started getting this message on startup. Havent changed anything recently, just turned it on and there it is. Now the synth section overall pitch just drifts randomly, usually 1 or 2 semitones flat or so. Went to the Nord User forums, Im not alone, and its been reported across several OS versions. Ive since emailed Clavia through their website, and Im waiting for an answer. Just wondering if anyone here has experienced this. I use this board daily and the only temporary fix I have found is to keep re-booting. Every once in a while I get lucky and it boots without the error and then it seems to work. So far, anyway.

They added a check to the startup routine a couple of updates ago that I understand is designed to turn off the pitch stick assembly when a problem is determined and alert the user, to move them to get it fixed.

If that update disables the pitch stick, it may solve my problem of not being able to use the board, as I certainly dont need the pitch stick. I can always opt for a more permanent solution when convenient. Ill try the update today, thanks. Fingers crossed.

While there's an Ultimaker 2/3 calibration stick in STL format on your help page here, there's no equivalent help article for the S5, nor is there an available STL for this model printer anywhere else (that I'm aware of).

I think this is not normal extrusion at the start of the test but if I let it continue, it does not stick to the bed, and I wind up with a ball of filament sticking to the extruder. Is my head to high, or is it too low? How do I adjust it to get the first layer to print correctly?

Give the textured sheet a wipe with isopropyl alcohol and re-run the Live-Z calibration. Based on your picture, it appears your Live-Z is very high. That little wispy strand should be a solid line of filament that adheres firmly to the print surface. Lower (make more negative) your Live-Z settings. At that height, you can go down in fairly large increments (0.1mm) until you notice the filament starting to stick. Once it's correct, you should be able to nudge the strands without them coming loose. You may have to repeat the Live-Z calibration a few times to get it low enough. No worries, it's all working at this point.

It's not true that there are no adjustments here. Did you read "handbook" manual? It's all there... Did you run first layer calibration? Your head is way to high. During that calibration you must lower print head (change live Z value) accordingly.

I am having a problem with PLA not sticking to the powdercoat surface too, but it appears to be a different problem. I have a very good nozzle height, it's extruding as expected, and the hotbed is hot to the touch and reads correct temperature on the LCD screen.

On my first attempt at a first layer calibration, cleaning first with the included alcohol swath, the filament would not adhere at all. I scrubbed the surface vigorously (alcohol-saturated paper towel) with 70% isopropyl and got about 40% adhesion with the same settings on the second attempt. Scrubbed it down again and got about 70% adhesion. Did it again and got my first fully adhered first layer calibration. It seems to be behaving as if there is some kind of residue on the powdercoat from the manufacturing process.

I finally tried my first model, the Prusa logo on the SD card. It was printing beautifully until it detached from the hotbed after about 5 minutes. More paper towel/alcohol scrubbing and I got to about 8 minutes before it detached. The nozzle height and output are ideal and the print quality looks perfect... until it detaches.

I have 91% isopropyl on order but I'm wondering if anyone else has seen this issue with the powdercoat and if stronger alcohol will help or if I should consider using something slightly abrasive to give the surface a little bit more friction.

Appreciate the assistance. Learned some new things,open air printers in cold rooms require very different settings than enclosed printers. I was having problems getting my first prints to stick to the bed even after I successfully calibrated Z. Turns out PLA is not happy sticking to the print bed at low temperatures. (Never saw that before) Turned the heated bed temp up, slowed the print down (Way down) and added a skirt and raft.

I talked with two tech support people via Chat about this. I even sent them close-up photos of my attempts so they could verify that the nozzle is delivering material properly. They told me to rub the steel sheet with a dry sponge and wash with dish soap and warm water. Didn't work.

I set the bed temp to 80 degrees as Ken suggested and it looked like it was finally working, but half way through another attempt to print the Prusa logo it started detaching until it was catching on the PINDA. Closer but no cigar. Are you using the powdercoat sheet, Ken?

I resorted to adding a brim and also made the room warmer, 72 degrees in the room as opposed to 60 in the rest of the house. I have a little Dyson fan that I moved in to the room. After about an hour I was able to turn that off as the printer really does warm the room up.

My solution was to lightly buff the surface of the powdercoat with a Scotch Brite pad, just enough to knock down the luster slightly. I kept the bed temp at 80 C just for good measure. It stuck tight and separated nicely from the surface once cool.

The stick on my left controller is drifting quite badly. I have tried blowing with compressed air, cleaning near the stick with 90% isopropyl alcohol, replacing the batteries, and pairing and unpairing the controller to no avail. When I open the controller calibration from settings it shows that the sticks neutral point is down and to the right of where it should be as shown here:

Unfortunately I cannot complete the calibration because the pointer will not reach portions of the upper left corner of the range of movement that the calibrator expects when I have physically moved the stick as far as it will go to the upper left. On the other hand, the stick reaches the bottom right hand of the expected range of motion well before I have physically moved the joystick as far as it goes in the bottom right. This behavior makes me think it's a calibration issue but I can't figure out how to resolve the issue.

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