The JUKI MO-6800S Series is a new and powerful overlock/safety stitch machine that has been developed to offer increased reliability and ease-of-use, while upgrading seam quality at higher sewing speeds. It responds to a wider range of materials and processes to finish high-quality soft-feeling seams. With the operating noise having been reduced and increased durability ensured, the cost-effective MO-6800S Series is a leading machine in the new era.
Since the machine comes with a needle-thread take-up mechanism as well as a looper thread take-up mechanism, to offer upgraded responsiveness from light to heavy-weight materials with a lower applied tension, it achieves well-tensed soft-feeling seams that flexibly correspond to the elasticity of the material at the maximum sewing speed of 7,000rpm.
The machine incorporates various mechanisms as standard, such as a differential-feed micro-adjustment mechanism and an external adjustment mechanism for adjusting the feed dog inclination as well as increasing the differential feed ratio, which can be easily adjusted to finish seams that perfectly match the material to be used. Comfortable operation is all but guaranteed, by a wider area around the needle entry, the adoption as standard of a micro-lifter feature that offers improved responsiveness to materials and provides the operator with upgraded operability, and by the reduction of operating noise and vibration, which has been achieved by designing an optimally balanced machine.
Serving the sewn products industry for over 30 years with most well known brands of industrial sewing machines, parts and supplies. Fast set-up and shipping times on in-stock equipment. Large inventory on hand. Technical support and custom setup on automated equipment.
The machine is widely applicable to the sewing of light (like silk, chiffon, lace)- to heavier materials (2-3 layers of 2 ply denim). Since the machine is provided with a needle thread take-up mechanism and a looper thread take-up lever, it ensures high-quality, well-tensed and soft seams with a beautiful texture which flexibly correspond to the elasticity of the materials even when run at speeds as high as 7,000 sti/min. In addition, the machine has a wider and brighter needle entry and provides improved responsiveness to the materials, thereby helping the operator use the machine more easily. The optimally-balanced design of the machine reduces both operating noise and vibration, contributing to more comfortable sewing work.
Based on the experience of my recent class, I thought an entry about how to feed or manage layers when sewing on an industrial machine would be helpful but realized I needed to provide more groundwork first. Speaking of the class, the context is I had two students who are primarily retailers (own 3 stores) who want to develop their own in-house sewing unit. One partner does a bit of sewing with home machines but is intimidated by industrials. To reduce the intimidation factor, I trained them on my three servo machines:
That reminds me, you may ask what is a servo? Servos are relatively new being one of two types of motors used on industrial machines. The other kind you may be more familiar with is a clutch motor. Clutch motors are noisy (I like the sound); servos are completely silent, as quiet or more than a home machine even at top speed. Stuart wrote a review of a servo motor.
Industrial machines are set up differently from home machines. With the latter, the motor is built into the machine head itself. The motor on industrials are separate, usually mounted to the underside of the table. This is useful because you can switch them out if they go bad.
The other difference between home and industrial machines that bears mentioning is that your usual price quote includes three things: the head, the motor and the table. In home sewing, it is just the head (motor built in). Because this is more typical than not, if you are quoted a price where this is not the case, the dealer or seller will always mention if it is head only, machine and motor only or no table included etc. In the normal course of affairs, you can assume the price quote includes table, motor and machine. In fact, dealers will often mention a possible upgrade to a better motor.
One of the things that can go wrong is the blades getting misaligned on an overlock machine. When we (me, my brother and my mom) sewed disposable coveralls that was one of the things that could ruin your day. Having to spend time getting them lined back up. The blades can also get dull and need to be replaced and then they have to be realigned.
We sewed like maniacs and probably used a machine more than the average industrial sewer. Basically full speed (we were so fast that before the first piece was finished the next one was already being sewn lol) sometimes 10-12 hour days. Good times!
My straight stitch Juki also has a knee bar and servo. I think we may need to distinguish between servos that simply replace clutch motors on machines without all the automatic niceties vs. servos that control all the automatic goodness that some of us are missing out on.
Cathy/Sarah: 4 thread is common in RTW. The Reliable site has a variety of overlocks with various configuration options. Merrow has an excellent site, the company (which invented the overlock machine) is still run by the Merrow family.
Ahhhh this is so helpful. My Juki TL2200 is in the shop again for the 3rd time in 2 weeks. I sew a lot of canvas bags and am looking to get an industrial machine. I feel overwhelmed and am not sure where to start. Seems finding your blog was a stroke of good luck. Off to read more. Thanks!
Count us in as fans of Orange County Industrial as well (and fans of Wayne!). And if you have a question about feet, replacement parts, needles, etc., Edwin in the parts department is very knowledgeable and helpful.
This post is so exciting. I love speed when sewing. I have also been intimidated by industrial machines.
I currently have a Pfaff sewing/embroidery machine which I exchanged a Bernina for. I would give anything if I had kept my Bernina. It was 23 years old and MUCH faster. My Pfaff drives me crazy. I am super interested in doing some slip covering and am loving the info for industrial machines. I have got to find me one! Thank you for this fabulous blog.
I just bought a used Juki DDL-5550
I am so excited and trying to get better control with the speed
also trialed quilting and the backing material kep gathering
any tips are appreciated
I also have a pfaff embroidery machine that has been in being fixed for 3 wks now
I hope I get better with my Juki I miss sewing
Finally I found someone who is blogging about industrial sewing.
In September 2011, I started the blog about industrial sewing machine parts which could be interesting for your readers as a source of information and a possibility to submit questions.
Also there are many resources and informations about industrial sewing on the hompage of Drkopp Adler -
adler.comHi Kathleen,
Can you help me?
I am using my machine (Toyota) to manage a dry cleaning contract. Zips, hems, and hand sewing etc with some quite tough fabrics to add to that i also have the odd oilskin (barbour) and leather to work with. I think i may be labouring under the misunderstanding that i need an industrial sewing machine. What do i need??? I am of limited needs and in the UK. Any suggestions????
I currently own an older Bernina, but due to an ongoing project I am considering buying an industrial machine. My Bernina is just not up to sewing large amounts of heavyweight fabric. Do you have any tips on what I should look for in my first industrial machine? I will be using it with heavier weight fabrics, for the most part, but my project also requires regular cotton fabric. Will this make a difference in the type of machine that I need to get?
Mary, it sounds like you need a double needle. The Juki website is very helpful in breaking this down for you. Hmm, now that I go look around, maybe not so much anymore. Do you have an iphone or ipad? If so, you want to get the free Juki app. With the app, you can search by product type and the machine along with stitch type is handily listed. Machines are hyperlinked so you can look at each separately.
Hi Ms. KATHLEEN, I just purchashed a Consew 206-RB-5, its my first industial machine. I will be creating, designing leather and faux leather clutches. Im the kind of person that does research for a while until I make a purchase. I did get a servo motor. You made me jealous about not having a knee lift lever. Am I able to change that out once it is delivered? Can I call them before they ship and ask for the thread trimmer? Or can I have that added once it arrives. Ihave been spoiled by my domestic Singer. Thanking You Iin Advance
My husband and I just purchased an industrial Juki DNU-1541S for use on leather and upholstery. I have manufactured a few leather bags already but am not loving the thread I am currently using. My question today is on thread. Do you have a preferred brand and/or weight for leather, and additionally for medium weight upholstery? I just learned about your book and am looking into buying it. It sounds fabulous!
For leather, the preferred thread is bonded nylon in various weights. Since I use mostly garment weights (2.5 oz max), I top out at 69 (T70) but prefer lighter, depending. As far as buying it, again, we mostly do samples and prototypes so it is the customer who supplies thread for production. For odd lots, eBay has been my main source.
Hi,
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and journey with your overlock machine. It was very helpful for Me.
I have a question, this overlock machine is for heavy duty work, is it also good for working with light and delicate fabrics like chiffon?
Thank you for this video. I have just purchased an older Pegasus EXT 32161 series, I am wanting to use just the overlocker stitch. How do you adjust the threads on the overlocker stitch so that the sticthes are even on both sides with the thread running along the cut side of the fabric to achieve an even and tidy finish? (hope that makes sense) Thanks again
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