Peugeot 308 Heater Not Working

[Keith Cogswell]

HiI'm on the road on a trip and the heater blower fan isn't working. Rain and drizzle in Wales!!

Can anyone point me to the correct fuse, it's an '04 2.0 HDi Dispatch, or any other possible solution??

Cheers

Ricko

I just fixed this on my van. Turned out to be a stuck carbon brush in the fan motor. If I had tried to replace the "resistor", I would now be 21 down and still no fix. I do recommend a methodical approach to fault finding. I cleaned my slider contacts first because they're easy to get at. No joy. I then removed the blower motor. I pulled the spade terminals that connect the "resistor" to the brushes and connected the brushes directly to 12 volts. That should have made it run at full speed but it didn't so I knew that the motor itself had a problem. After sorting that out, I tried it again and the motor ran. Next I tried it with the "resistor" in circuit and it all worked. Hooray!

If it hadn't I would have checked that the voltages on the 4 pin connector were doing what they should before I ordered a new "resistor".

Take plenty of photos as you go for reference later.

Your long term fix is to pull the 3 knobs from the sliders

Lever off the gear stick gaiter from the dash.

Remove screws holding the ashtray and then lever that off.

Remove screw holding the heater control panel and then lever that off.

It may now help to remove the connector blocks from the back of the hazard warning light switch and any others.

The sliders are now sticking up through a electrical circuit board. Remove the 5 screws that hold this down and carefully lift it out. There is an electrical connector on the back of the board that will need to be released by moving the locking lever then pulling the connector block off.

The fan speed slider and the temperature slider both have a little brass contact springy things around their bases. Gently lift them both off.

Take your brass contacts and the circuit board to your workbench/kitchen table.

Clean the dusty side of the circuit board with a small paint brush and vacuum cleaner. (Don't suck the brass contacts up the vacuum.)

Wipe any grease off the other side of the board with a rag and paraffin or white spirit.

On the underside of the circuit board for each slider there is a copper contact strip on each side of the slot. One side is continuous, the other is segmented. Polish all 4 up with a fine abrasive, say 400 or 600 grade wet and dry paper.

Also polish the little wipers on each brass contact that will make contact with the strips on the circuit board. If the wipers have become flattened give them a little tweak so that they will stand up an make good contact.

Clean it all again to get rid of any abrasive and dust.

Put a light smear of petroleum jelly on the contact strips and you're ready to reassemble.

Reassembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. When replacing the top heater control panel cover, there are strips of rubber dust excluder in each slider slot. it is easy to push these up into the slot and jam the sliders. A thin spatula can help to work these down. Something like an artist's palette knife or an old fashioned bone handled butter knife. The knobs for the sliders have a slot on each side of the shaft which is a little tricky to get properly aligned with a pair of ridges on the sliders. When it engages properly the sliders will move freely.

I have had many vehicles which would have been almost unusable due to condensation and ice problems in the coldest weather without a blower. But strangely, it has only been a minor inconvenience in the Expert. Anything over 45mph pushes enough air through to clear the screen within mins of setting off. OK, those mins can be of frantic wiping!

Hi everybody - apologies for coming in late on this one but as I know nothing about auto electrics, I would appreciate guidance on whether the blower in my van is a three or four pin affair? When I put my VIN number into the Citroen service website it comes up with part numbers for both helpfully, and now the BEHR and HELLA appear to have merged I cannot find a definitive answer to the part number 91.794.51.137? Pics included, grateful for your assistance as ever

I have a new Valeo fan which I installed. The new fan runs fine, but perhaps on the slow side even though it is brand new. I say slow (I only have a modern car to compare it to and can't remember what my 205 was like back in my 20's)

I took out the resistor (it's a Phase 2 Seim 5 pin) and the are some minor signs of ageing but it's certainly not all corroded. Before I pay out on a new one do you think slow running could be down to the resistor and worth replacing it, or could it be that the control cables are stretched and not setting it on full speed when turned fully clockwise?

Maybe it is just this after all. Apologies if it's all been covered and talked to death. Any other thoughts before I shell out on a new resistor (I don't want to do the "hack") if it could potentially be a problem with the heater dial simply not demanding enough speed.

Yes indeed, many thanks Craig - I read that repair thread, but I sort of thought mine looked too clean to have a problem. I reckon I will just go for the 5 Pin Seim from Neat Auto parts about 20 quid cheaper than Peugeot.

That is a useful post from Ryan Simon - but not really what I get. My symptoms are variable speed over the range which suggests the transistor is working, but the top speed just isn't that fast. That post suggests that at top speed the transistor is bypassed. It sort of feels like that bypassing is not happening with mine and it never gets to run at full speed.

"The relay is only present on the 5 pin modules, and it bypasses the transistor at full speed to give the blower motor that little bit of extra umph. The usual problems are either corroded contacts or a defunct transistor."

A new resistor fixed the problem for me. I took out an old 4 pin resistor, and I fitted a new 5 pin resistor which significantly increased the speed. Apparently the 5th pin provides an override of the resistor and puts the fan on maximum. I don't know if your car will have 5 pin loom, mine did.

Hi guys, my one is Ph 2 and I struggle to find the fan resustor. I looked around the fan and did not see anything. Then spotted this Valeo thing from the attached photo. Can you please provide a photo of its location. Also what is this Valeo?

Thanks to Ozymandis and Bacardincoke's photo of the resistor with the wires attached to it! This is what helped me identify it because the location on my LHD 93 model is right in the middle behind the centre console. See photo. I unscrewed one side which is near the driver's footwell, but even having thin wrists cannot get to the other screw. Will keep trying tomorrow.

From your image it looks like you've a disc beneath that spring arm, if so that's the contact point that needs to be working effectively. The mods shown are simply by-passing that to create a better contact if the original is broken or poor.

I'd try to clean the existing item first, you don't know if the mod will cause unforseen problems in your case, maybe clearance / fitting issues for LHD with the additional wire for example and you risk damaging something that you can't easily replace.

Cheers, Bacardincoke and Damir. I will bridge the two points with some clips just to see if it will increase the speed and will report back on the weekend. Now it seems it only blows on low through the whole range of the rheostat.

So as I was getting ready to make the bridge as per above, I remembered that there was something about a spring somewhere, which I did not see. However, upon closer inspection and rereading the above info I decided to try and pry up to the long metal piece and noticed that it barely lifts in the centre! So I levered up the "spring" and pushed through a strip of fine sand paper folded in two and pulled it front the back while spraying el connector's cleaner. Apparently, there was almost no contact between the spring and the base. Now, the fan turns well through the range up to high, while originally it only spun on lowest through the whole rheostat range of the knob.

Heater working but only blows out front vents. No heat to feet or defrost. Before replacing Heater Control Unit, it would only blow hot air from front vents- With this replacement it will now change from cold to hot and the air flow pressure does change from the front vents when changing the setting dial but there is still no air at all to feet and defrost. Can anyone tell me if there is a louver or valve that could be jammed and where to locate it? Or what else to try? Thanks!

@nothotwheels , Most likely a AC/ Heat, blend door actuator problem. Actuator could be stuck, faulty, linkage off, etc. Could not find a link for the 1998-2003 protege but will post a link to show and tell in general where and what to look for. You may also find a reasonably priced repair manual online or at the local library to borrow. Good luck.

@mayer , I have noticed and appreciate and I also return as you suggest, what is also nice when poster's do post back accepting the answer and leaving a comment of their gratitude, it makes it feel worth while. I am still learning things about this site and with guidance from you and others things should be good. Mayer , have also noticed you have not been answering as much as you were before, busy at the office I suppose. If I am missing something here let me know! Have a good evening.

The actuator typically on any vehicle has a flap that is controlled either manually by cable or by vacuum operated cable. It can be a labor intensive job to get to the heater box flap and then find a vacuum leak. See if you can get a shop manual on your make of car.

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