Stair Cad Block !!TOP!!
Harel Akridge
StairAide LLC is located in the Albany, New York area with local product manufacturing and shipping from Troy, NY. StairAide is an affordable stair lift alternative which keeps you climbing and moving.
Yes. Although you can place redstone on upside down stairs, stairs can't power any adjacent blocks. You'll have to use a full block. You experience the same behaviour when you use glowstone or slabs for example, because these blocks are considered transparent.
The Repeating Sequence Stair block outputs and repeats a stair sequence thatyou specify with the Vector of output values parameter. Forexample, you can specify the vector as [3 1 2 4 1]'. A value inVector of output values is output at each time interval, andthen the sequence repeats.
Select to lock the output data type setting of this block against changes by the Fixed-Point Tool and the Fixed-Point Advisor. For more information, see Use Lock Output Data Type Setting (Fixed-Point Designer).
The first step to doing this is by creating a new Creative world or switching your gamemode to Creative via cheats. The cheat to do this is /gamemode creative and simply type this into the Minecraft text chat. Once you're in Creative you will need to give yourself the Debug Stick by typing the cheat /give @a minecraft:debug_stick. Now you're ready to change the shape of a stair!
Place down your stair wherever you want it to be as if you break it or place a block next to it you will have to repeat the process. Now hold out the Debug Stick and left click (M1 on PC) until it says "selected "shape" (straight)"
In general, start by adding a stair block, then another next to it with the same orientation. Finally, orient yourself 90 degrees to add the third stair which will complete a corner. Next delete the first block you positioned and the corner block should keep its state. It gets tricky to position corners near each other and takes some practice.
The Stair Generator block generates a signal changing at specifiedtransition times. Use the Stair Generator block to generate a logicalsignal to control the opening and closing of the Breaker block andthe Ideal Switch block. You can also use the Stair Generator blockto generate a signal whose amplitude changes by steps at specifiedtransition times.
A pitch block is a small model of the stair. It can be either from nosing to nosing or carriage cut to carriage cut- both should be the same. You can either use a CM to calculate the angle or use a framing square to lay out the angle. Example if the rise is 7 9/16 and the run is 10, you can use a framing square to make the marks and connect the dots. Either way you can then place the pitch block on a 2x along the nosing and see if one side is level.
What I did was I measured from the finished riser out to the edge of the finished tread and got 10 1/4". Then i measured from the finished tread to the finished tread above and got 8 1/8". I entered 10 1/4" on my CM calculator as the run, and 8 1/8" as the rise. I hit pitch and got 38.4 degrees. I set my mitersaw to roughly 38.4 degrees and cut the railing. I then layed the railing on top of the stair treads and butted it into the lower part of the newel. I did this to confirm the angle was correct and you could see it was off a few degrees. I read somewhere that I shouldn't have included the nosing of the finished tread in my run measurement. What did I do wrong?
If you measured out to the finished tread and it was 10-1/4" the tread was actually 9" with a 1-1/4" nosing. Your pitch block should be the the width of the tread without the nosing and the riser height.
It's OK to work from the nosings as long as you use two of them to cancel each other out.In your drawing, set a scrap of 2 x 12 on the tread at the far left, touching the nosing above, and use a straitedge to scribe the pitch line.You'll get a pitch block with an 8 1/8" rise and a 9" run.AitchKay
No I got into trouble by doing exactly what Joe said, I used 10 1/4 as the run. I didnt realize not to include the nosing in the calculations. In fact when I recut the rake angle it was 42 degrees just as Joe pointed out. Joe how do you do those computer drawings? I love em!!! I will have to relook at my pitch block, i still have it in my truck. By butting the stock against the upper and lower nosings of the tread i still should've gotten a 9 inch run. I will look, thanks everybody. I do love my CM calculator, it really does make life sweet when of course you punch in the right numbers!!
Remember, the pitch blok is a representation of the actual rise and run of the stair. Often times, especially on your first few stairs? The actuall rail doesn't follow that stair as perfectly as we would like to think.
if you lay out a stringer... and cut all the little triangles out.... each triangle is a pitch block.... pick one or use them allMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
The Stair. Often when a a level shows a tread out as little as 1/8-3/16th? Multiply that by the whole stair.......................and then............remember that the ballusters run plumb, not square to the tread as they go up. That alone can cause a 3 degree deviation in the cut of a balluster top.
I've been reading the posts to this quiry. And it's plain to me that many aren't in the stair bussiness. Point one, you only really need a pitch block, when doing a over the post railings. For a P to P, you can lay anything ( like a straight 2x4 or the rail ) up The stairs and once the angle is established ( which you can mark from the base of the newel ) that is the cut and length ( assumming the newels are plumb ).
Point 2-- for over the posts railings ( which I mainly do ), you use the pitch block for laying out all your cuts on the the fittings, volutes , etc. , and double checking that your cut is right. And I don't wip out any formula or cm to figure it out. I use the actual, what's there. Treads are in and I'm ready to do the railing.-- lay a straight 2x4 or the rail up the stairs, against the skirtboard ( to make sure you are in a straight line to stairs ), I then take a piece of scrap ( 3/4 x 5 or 6" x 7-8" long ) square cut on ends-- lay it on the 2x or whatever and draw a line on it with a level, cut it with the miter saw forming a right angle triangle. Lay it back on and check with a torpedo, usually needs to retrimmed a couple time to get it right on with the torpedo. This is a workable pitch block. You can then use it to mark all the cuts on your fittings , volutes , etc. . And since I cut all my fittings at the same time ( first step in doing the railing ) and I also have my miter saw bolted to a specific purpose table, that I level, so I can also use the pitch block and torpedo to double check the fittings and volute are rightous. In my area ( with our codes ) most run about 37-38 1/2 . And you need to make sure your angle cuts are right-on -- since a volute needs to be level on the bottom newel and fit to the goseneck or whatever at the end of a 12-15' run of rail, so if you are off by so much as a 1/2 degree, you might have a level or gap problem.
It might also be noted, that if the stairs has a landing etc. , I make a separate pitch bloch for every run, since they are generally a bit different ( 1/4 to 1/2 degree ), go figure. Also since I am working on a leveled miter saw and table, with my volute jig, I can dial in the miter saw bevel with the block and torpedo ( against blade ). Then all you need to rember is to mark a fitting, it needs 2 marks on it, top and bottom of fitting. and depending on whether it is going up hill or down hill, determines if you mark bottom with block laying down ( at bottom ) and cut line with it standing up, as in a volute or opposite for rail side of an up easing to a gooseneck.
Thanks for your reply. In my first post, i stated that i definitely don't consider myself a stair or railing installer. Props to you for doing this type of work because I consider it the most challenging form of carpentry there is! I know I could've laid the railing on the stairs against the posts to get the angles, but i like figuring out formulas and like to use my CM calculator. ur definitely right about using whats there. In the future i will probably just go that route. My real issue was how I made the pitch block incorrectly because I included the nosings of the treads in my calculations for stair run.
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thanks to @pascal i have got to a good work flow for irregular curved stairs which involves unrolling and creating 2 d stringers and then FlowAlongSrf. However doing the balustrade this way is proving difficult,
Thanks for the response - I am currently trialling rhino as we have issues with sketchup, that said not being able to do things like this, as well as the huge complexity in creating something like a sweep which maintains its axis are making it look likely we will stick with SketchUp. I am four days into trying to model this stair and really disappointed that It would need a grasshopper or script - both of which are beyond my skills and knowledge. I kind of thought Rhino would be able to knock out a stair like this pretty easily!
Wood stairs drop themselves as items when broken with any tool, or with no tool, but an axe is fastest. Non-wood stairs drop themselves as items only if broken with a pickaxe. Compared to slabs, the hardness values (and thus, breaking time) of stairs better reflect the blocks they are made from.[1]
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