3 Jaw Chuck Model Download
Helaine Timonere
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752. David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her. Not only can you build one as a POF model, but as a POB and lift model as well.
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model. I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself. But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project. I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them. This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course. I will be modifying it for simplicity so you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop. The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it. It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build. BUT I will also make my Carvings available in 1/4" scale so folks building directly from the books will be able to buy them. Some preliminary views of the unfinished CAD work on the carvings. There is much work left t do on these but I hope you agree that they look pretty amazing so far.
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly. As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie, All of the parts are laser cut. In this case yellow cedar was used. But there is one major difference. On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking. But this model is being built at 3/8" scale. That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.
Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be. The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe. I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat. You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
Speedwell will be a wonderful follow up project for those building Winchelsea. I'm about 2/3 finished rigging her and it's also a lot of fun, without all the repetition of a ship rigged three master. Chuck has chosen well - she is a beautiful little ship. For those not familiar with her there is a particularly fine model in the NMM on which our model was based. Here is a link to the photo. There is also are also superb McNarry and Reed models as well as a lovely bone model if you do an internet search.
Thank you guys. I am excited about the new model project. Mostly about designing the framing. I hope to make it less finicky than you guys have probably seen with the typical POF kits being sold.
i absolutely hate all of the scaffolding and boxes you see built up around the hull to align the frames. You cant even see the model through all of that. So I am taking a minimalist approach to frame alignment for square frames and cant frames alike.
Oooh, what read. feeling like a kid getting christmass month earlier. thanks for teasing us Chuck. There IS something really enjoyable and relaxing for scratch modelers with laser cut model. I Remember how over the moon I was joining together winnie stem. Good luck.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.
I may use it because Jeff has a stash of it at Hobbymill. I have samples and it looks like real nice stuff. Its a bit cheaper than boxwood but only marginally so. But if you didnt know which was which side by side it would be hard to tell the difference. Because they are so similar why not give it a try. Boxwood is slightly more tightly grained and the the color is more even. But if you get choice pieces of Pau Marfin it looks just as nice. It isnt as hard as Boxwood but its really close. More along the lines of pear in my opinion. But I figured why not give it a try. It also helps Jeff get rid of some. Maybe if more folks see a model made from it they might give it a try like I may do. It all depends on how long I have to wait for it. I think Jeff is going on vacation soon if he hasnt already. But I can still make the bulkheads and stuff while I wait...
Today I laser cut the bulkheads and false keel from 1/4' thick ply. It was comforting that the laser cutter will have no problem cutting through this thickness of ply. That is really good. Normally you will see 3/16" thick bulkheads. I have started to use the thicker stuff in my latest designs. I think it really helps with the stability and strength of the hull. Its just a better thickness to go with in my opinion if you choose POB. When you no longer have to worry about mass production and kit MFG profit vs. loss, you are free to do these things. Its a great feeling and in the end make the modeling experience so much better.
Well I dont have any pics of the machine working...today is a rope making day. But here are some images of the shop with the laser cutter. Its very very messy as I am in high gear making stuff for the NRg conference in a few weeks. The laser cutter....is a BOSS Laser cutter 80 watt. But its custom and I had the larger laser tube placed in a smaller machine body for space reasons. I dont need a huge laser bed because most of the parts we make are small. I am very happy with its performance. Buying a laser cutter is like buying a car...so many opinions and stuff to weed through on the web about which is the best one. This particular unit cost about $5500 after everything was all set up. The cheaper desktop models you see just wont do the job and cut very poorly. Many promise to cut through 1/4' plywood but just wont. So far I was able to cut through teh plywood using only 65% of the power that this tube is capable of generating. It sits on a stand with wheels and can be rolled around teh shop but I like it right next to the workbench. Its just like sending a document to the printer....instead you just hit "file Cut" rather than "file print". Its very easy to get up and running.
When you think about how much money you could spend on a Sherline lathe and mill and all of the accessories...$5500 is not that crazy. I make a lot of parts for a living and that isnt the case with most ship modelers but I view this as just another tool to make parts. You can excel at using it just like you could with a mill and lathe...which by the way, a lathe is something I dont own.
The Forkardt F+ is a manual 3-jaw chuck based on the wedge block principle pioneered by Forkardt. The F+ manual chuck features a true quick change jaw feature and standard mounting features. Internal components are easily changed by the user, making the F+ robust with a long service life.
The F+ manual chuck shares the same jaw style as the FNC power chuck, so there are many jaw options available. The jaws are DIN standard and top tooling is interchangeable with other DIN style manual and power chucks. The F+ manual chuck has a large thru-hole and is excellent in grinding applications.
The Goldenrod / Svecom Model 928 Safety Chuck is designed for high speed applications and for customers that are tired of continuously changing the replaceable inserts of standard safety chucks. The bearings that support the rotating shaft are located on the air shaft journals. The outer race of each bearing rests in the Model 928 sockets and do not rotate.
Rotating air chucks are ideal for precision turning and cylindrical grinding applications that require close concentricity, squareness, and parallelism tolerances. Variable clamping force enables clamping of thin-walled and other fragile parts with minimal distortion. All models, except the 3-50, feature a coolant or air passage through the center of the chuck.
Chuck Accuracy
QC System Design
QC top jaws are located by two tapered locating buttons that are pressed into jig ground locating holes in the chuck's base jaws. QC top jaws feature jig ground tapered locating holes that mate with the tapered locating buttons on the chuck's base jaws. Due to the close tolerances that are held on both the tapered locating buttons and locating holes, the top jaw seats on the OD of the button as well as on the face of the master jaw. This precision fit eliminates clearance and assures high locating accuracy and rigidity.
Lubricate the chuck with an electric pump
The AL option allows lubricant to be supplied to the chuck through the air tube assembly during the machine cycle. This option is recom mended for unmanned machine cells and other high volume production applications.
An AL chuck is equipped with a special center housing that channels the lubricant to the moving components within the chuck. The machine's way lubrication pump is typically used to also supply lubricant to the chuck.
For rotating applications a rotary union must be adapted to the air tube assembly in order to provide a connection for the lubrication line. The AL Option is also available on Stationary Chucks.