Iron Man (2010)
Katariina Washuk
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Anemia is the most prevalent extraintestinal complication of IBD. It can affect quality of life and ability to work, and can also increase the hospitalization rate in patients with IBD. Although the causes of anemia in IBD are multifactorial, iron deficiency anemia (IDA) is the most common. Assessment of the iron status of patients who have a condition associated with inflammation, such as IBD, by using common biochemical values is insufficient. However, new indices of iron metabolism (for instance ferritin:transferrin receptor ratio, reticulocyte hemoglobin content or percentage of hypochromic red blood cells) may help to improve the assessment of iron status in patients with IBD. The treatment of IDA traditionally involves oral iron supplementation. However, because of extensive gastrointestinal adverse effects, and data showing that the use of oral iron in IBD may be associated with disease exacerbation, current guidelines suggest that iron supplementation in IBD should be administered intravenously. This Review provides an overview of iron homeostasis in health before discussing diagnostic and therapeutic strategies for IDA in patients with IBD.
Abstract. Recent suggestions to slow down the increase in atmospheric carbon dioxide have included ocean fertilization by addition of the micronutrient iron to Southern Ocean surface waters, where a number of natural and artificial iron fertilization experiments have shown that low ambient iron concentrations limit phytoplankton growth. Using a coupled carbon-climate model with the marine biology's response to iron addition calibrated against data from natural iron fertilization experiments, we examine biogeochemical side effects of a hypothetical large-scale Southern Ocean Iron Fertilization (OIF) that need to be considered when attempting to account for possible OIF-induced carbon offsets. In agreement with earlier studies our model simulates an OIF-induced increase in local air-sea CO2 fluxes by about 73 GtC over a 100-year period, which amounts to about 48% of the OIF-induced increase in organic carbon export out of the fertilized area. Offsetting CO2 return fluxes outside the region and after stopping the fertilization at 1, 7, 10, 50, and 100 years are quantified for a typical accounting period of 100 years. For continuous Southern Ocean iron fertilization, the CO2 return flux outside the fertilized area cancels about 20% of the fertilization-induced CO2 air-sea flux within the fertilized area on a 100-yr timescale. This "leakage" effect has a radiative impact more than twice as large as the simulated enhancement of marine N2O emissions. Other side effects not yet discussed in terms of accounting schemes include a decrease in Southern Ocean oxygen levels and a simultaneous shrinking of tropical suboxic areas, and accelerated ocean acidification in the entire water column in the Southern Ocean at the expense of reduced globally-averaged surface-water acidification. A prudent approach to account for the OIF-induced carbon sequestration would account for global air-sea CO2 fluxes rather than for local fluxes into the fertilized area only. However, according to our model, this would underestimate the potential for offsetting CO2 emissions by about 20% on a 100 year accounting timescale. We suggest that a fair accounting scheme applicable to both terrestrial and marine carbon sequestration has to be based on emission offsets rather than on changes in individual carbon pools.
With this encouragement, I stripped one of my skillets and reseasoned it with flaxseed oil. As you can see in the picture above, the result was a dramatic improvement. The finish is smooth, hard, and evenly colored.
The lard that was traditionally used for seasoning 100 years ago was much higher in ALA than fat from pigs today, because back then pigs ate their natural diet. Today they are raised on industrial feedlots and forced to eat grain, making their fat low in omega-3s.
I just undertook the flaxoil process on a large Lodge cast iron skillet and a Mr Bar-B-Q cast iron wok. Both are not shining examples of the best of the cast iron world I know however these were what I was working with. Both pans were sprayed with EasyOff and allowed to rest for two days in a plastic bag in the sun. An metal abrasive pad was used to ensure I was down to bare metal and the pans were rinsed and dried on the stove. By now the pans rusted a bit and the cleaning was followed a 50/50 vinegar and water bath for a few hours until all rust was loosened enough to remove easily. This was followed with another cleaning with washing soda to counteract the vinegar. After a thorough rinsing, I boiled water in them while scrubbing the insides with a scouring pad to ensure all cleaning agents were rinsed out of every pore. I followed the seasoning instructions closely and applied very thin coats of Spectrum brand filtered flaxoil. The process took several days and if the pans cooled I was sure to preheat them in a 200 degree oven for approximately 45 min to an hour before applying another coat of oil. My oven can bake up to 550 degrees and the pans baked at that temperature for an hour and remained in the oven to cool. I repeated this process the required six times.
Other possible reasons for the seasoning to come off are putting the oil on too thickly (which will cause any seasoning to come off, regardless of the oil), not inverting the pan (which causes pooling and too thick a coating, with any oil), or cooking with acidic ingredients such as lemon, tomato, vinegar (which also will cause any seasoning to come off, regardless of the oil).
Hi Sheryl, not sure if you received my last comment. I have four cast iron skillets. ONe is Lodge Logic, the other three are an off brand. Firstly, the off brand is much rougher in service texture. I followed the advice on using the self cleaning oven,and that worked awesome. I have also used pure flaxseed oil now six times. The Lodge Logic is working really well with a couple of sticky spots. The other three look beautifully dark brown, but they are still sticking when doing scrambled eggs. Would you go over the cleaning instructions advice for AFTER the initial seasoning is completed, and you start to use the pan a few times. Thanks. Don
I am in process of cleaning/seasoning my first piece of cast iron ever; a No. 12 Wagner Skillet approx. 110 years old that looked in very fine condition when I got it but decided to use your method so that I can learn about this process.
The conditioning went fine for the first 4 coats, but then for some reason on the 5th parts of the inside bottom went considerably darker than the other parts so it looks like uneven stains covering about 1/2 the surface.
The surface still feels very very smooth because I did leave only a microfilm each time, there will be no flaking but would just like to know if you can identify the reason for the uneven coating. Is this maybe the composition of the iron ? Why were the first 4 coats relatively even.
Thank You!!! I knew there Had to a reason WHY but all I was finding was the How until I came across this article. Now it makes sense and I can understand why even my new ceramic coated OrGreenic pans say to season them.
I have a Debuyer Carbon B pan I am in the process of trying this with. I started with a dirty pan that has been in use a couple of years. I used muiriatic acid to clean it on the inside. It came very shiney clean. Now on the 5th coat of Flax Oil.Not black but a very dark bronze color. Not real smooth and shiney a bit rough. The next couple coats I will wipe on with a micro fiber cloth in the hope of eliminating paper towel lint. I am using temps of 450 degrees and baking more than an hour befor shuting off the heat.
I have another bebuyer pan that I seasoned just with usuage. I only cook eggs in it and with butter or any other oil and the use of a silicone spatula, I can get the eggs to slide around the pan like it was teflon. I can flip them over with a flip of the wrist. Iron pans can get pretty no stick. Not quite like teflon but slick never the less.
just looked at my bottle of NOW oil. It is not 100% Flax oil It has ascobic acid and rosemary extract and a fe other non flax oil items. I will order up some different oil and contine the process when it arrives.
I have always fired my cast iron skillets the way my ancestors did. You can use lard (Crisco in the can), but I prefer canola oil. Grandma always built a fire outside and threw the skillets right into the fire and let them sit in the fire for hours at a time. The skillets always came out black inside and out and had a nice smooth surface. Whenever we build a fire to burn limbs and debree from trees, I set the skillets in the fire and allow them to season for a while. Works well for me.
After all this is what the foundry uses after they pull the casting from the mold. Hope this helps. If you look you can probably find a small fab shop or that type of business that can sand blast it for you.
Stripped my pan, threw out my NOW oil and used Barleans for 9 coats on a DeBuyer iron pan. After acid stripping I sanded with 400 grit wet dry paper. The pan is super smooth and looks great. I will try frying with it tonight. I had done this a few times with NOW oil and the coating always flacked off. It was also never smooth and hard, it always seems a bit sticky. The right oil makes a difference. I fry eggs most mornings in a Debuyer that just got seasoned on it own with no real system. I only fry eggs or onions in it and with a bit a butter the eggs will slide around and can easily be flipedd with the wrist flip.I am hoping for even better with this pan. Omelets with no sticking are my hope. Regardless of how good the seasoning ends up oil or butter is still needed. It is not an oil based teflon we are putting on.
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