Kodak Serial Number Check

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Myra Krallman

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Aug 4, 2024, 3:18:10 PM8/4/24
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Iknow some of the numbers relate to the age of the film... and the first four numbers reveal the film stock, but beyond that I don't know what the numbers or codes on the label mean. Is there a way to tell from the CAT number how old film is? A friend of mine has some kodak film he wants to give me, and I was wondering how old it was from the numbers. Any help is much appreciated.

If you go to kodaks website they have an online tool that shows you how to read their numbers. I don't think that they do list age however. The website says that their film is 'to be used shortly after purchase' so they don't list age (I think. Check the website, it will say for sure)


As far as I know there is no way to tell the age by the CAT number. It is just the number in the catalog for a specific film. There isn't really any easy way to find out how old film is until it is developed. There are date edge code symbols on most film that you can figure out what year it was made.


The first three numbers after the stock type have something to do with the age. Last time I sold some shortends to Dr. Rawstock, they asked me what those numbers were and when I told them the reaction was, "yeah, that's pretty recent stuff, we'll buy it."


I'm sure people who deal in large quantities of short ends can tell aprox. how old stock is. The label, though not showing date, does show batch number, which if a stock house can referance that and find the average purchase date of film with the same batch number, that gives them an idea. I was told my short ends that I bought 2 months ago was less than 6 months old. (meaning almost a year before proc. and develop.) I hope that doesn't affect it too much, but we post to HD, so little errors in fog/contrast I can correct easily.


I Think they just go up in sequence with each batch made of that type of Film. So 5302 765 is later than 5302 764. Kodak can no doubt trace this back to the actual date of manufacture on their internal files.. Part of the number also tells which master roll the film came from (6000 ft 50 inch wide rolls that come off the coating alley)


I have gottten ends from more than one source with teh same second group of numbers so I suspect that a given batch is probaly on sale for a month or three. The Short end dealer would know from the number to the rest of the stock they were buying wether it was simalar to ones they were getting from other shoots.


The Year of manufacture is in the Codes on the edge print, so if you have the lab do a fog test for you, and ask them to use two feet you can probaly read the date from the Keycode, or they can tell you if you ask when you drop the film off for the test.


The CAT number is for ONE cut of ONE type of film, and is aggined more or less at random (my make some sense to folks who work in rochester but The numbers don't seem in any order looking at the catalog listing. But say a 100 Ft roll of Single perf, 7205 would be the same CAT from the first roll released (in a given Market) to the last. (same film can have different CAT numbers in different countries, probaly due to slight differences in Packaging.


The batch is the actual vat of emulsion that Kodak mixes up and coats on the film base. I believe the numbers are incremental - so a higher batch number would be a newer emulsion than a lower number. But you'd need known examples as points of reference to get a real idea.


On the processed film, there are Keykode numbers which include identification of the stock type - but there are also other numbers and letter codes that identify a load of stuff such as perforator number etc. Among them is a two letter code that tells you the year of manufacture. The secret of the code is on Kodak's website at this address


If you're actually asking about the CAT number - ie the one towards the lower right which reads something like "CAT 847 4439" or the like, then that's a catalog specification number that matches the particular type of film in detail to its catalog entry. Even if the stock is the same, if it has a different pitch, length, perforation, etc., then it should have a different CAT number, IIRC.


134 - This is the emulsion batch number. Each time Kodak needs to prepare the emulsion mix again, it gets a new batch number. Depending on the particular emulsion type and other factors, a batch can make between 5 and 50 parent rolls.


02 - This is the cut number. It defines the number of cuts made lengthwise along the parent roll. A 4000 foot roll is used because the cuts will divide equally whether the parent roll is to be cut into 100, 400, or 1000 foot cuts.


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1. Try rebooting the computer and scanner.



2. Try connecting to a different USB port on the computer



3. Update the scanner drivers from Kodak's website: www.kodakalaris.com/go/disupport and serach the model number in the "Find your Product" search bar.


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The Rochester Philharmonic Orchestra wants to make the night as convenient and memorable for you as possible. Below is basic information for our Patron Services Center and amenities within Kodak Hall.


Concert evenings: RPO will-call tickets and concert tickets will be available at the Eastman Theatre Box Office (located in Eastman Theatre at 433 East Main St.) starting 90 minutes prior to the start of the concert.


Lost items may be claimed with the house manager during and immediately after a concert. Items found in Kodak Hall after an RPO performance will be held at the Eastman Theatre Box Office at 26 Gibbs Street in Lowry Hall. For more information, call 585-274-3000, Monday-Friday, 10am-3pm..


Available in the basement, mezzanine and balcony levels of the Eastman Theatre. Please check with an usher the evening of the performance to determine which coat checks are staffed and available for use. At Hochstein, there are a limited number of coat hangers on the lower level.


Special seating areas are available in Kodak Hall at Eastman Theatre and Performance Hall at Hochstein for people with wheelchairs and special needs. Please discuss special seating needs with the box office when making your purchase. Please see the house manager or an usher for seating assistance. Individuals who use wheelchairs can enter Eastman Theatre through the first entrance to the lobby from Gibbs Street.


The "platform" is just a cartoon and doesn't affect anything. You can adjust the location later. You need to match the midpoint of the virtual build plate in Cura to the real build plate on your printer. The printer will put the 0,0,0 origin of a gcode file at the printer's Home Offset 0,0,0 and so those points need to match up.


When you Auto-Home the printer your LCD should indicate an X Y Z position. Those numbers are the current Home Offset numbers. If they are X0 Y0 Z0 and the nozzle is somewhere off the build plate then the Home Offset was never entered and so the printer puts the origin of a gcode at that Auto-Home Position.


Whatever that location is defined as on your LCD will be the basis for your Home Offset. Like other things in 3d Printing the numbers are positive when they need to be negative. So multiply the X and Y values by "-1".


Save the file as "Test.gcode" or something equally snazzy. Stick it on an SD card and print the file. At the end the print head should be near the center of your bed. If it isn't then the "printable area of the bed" isn't really 255 x 210. More adjustments would need to be made in the Cura settings.


The Kodak Printer has no such xyz readouts or controls to move x,y. (core xy machine) The Z starts at the bottom and you can bump it up by preset increments (like 50mm) until you get close to the heads (20mm or so) and then no more.


I measured the distance to center of X to center of build plate at 40mm on the x axis. In Cura, I took the 40mm and changed the Machine/extruder "Nozzle offset x" from 0 to 40 for extruder1 and from -40 to 0 on extruder2 and that worked perfectly,


I then changed the value of the "platform_offset": [-6, -7, 17] to 33,-7,17 to line up the stl of the kodak build plate mesh and that worked as well. Prints centered via cura's center option print in the center now so that is done.


I went to print extruder2 to check but.....after auto-home from start gcode printer switches to extruder2 and preheats extruder2 and bed. Then the printer changes heads and tries to print with the unheated extruder1


Kodak, DaVinci, Bamboo, and a couple of others appear to want users to stick with their slicers. They are very proprietary and for the most part only their slicers communicate correctly with their firmware. There are work-arounds but they need to be "discovered" and that can take a lot of trial and error.

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