Logitech Driving Force Gt Not Working

[Zenia]

Youve just acquired a working Logitech Driving Force for the PS2, and upon use, you discovered the wheel doesn't work, doesn't feel right, or gets hung up. This is a problem, since you probably spent a good deal of money on it.

A: A #1 Phillips screwdriver, a 7/64 allen wrench, fu manchu fingernails, a 1/8 in flathead screwdriver, and a glass to hold your soda or beer. A combination or reversible screwdriver will NOT work--you need the real deal.

To open the Driving Force, first unhook it from the USB connection, and unhook the power and RJ-45 cable at the back. With it still mounted to the table, use your Fu Manchu fingernails or the flat screwdriver to pry loose the plate that has the vents and says "Logitech" on it. Two screws reside deep under the cover. Remove them. Now remove the two allen screws near the back of the unit.

Inside, you see the shaft (no dirty jokes, please), a small encoder, a plastic carrier bearing, some large gears, and the steering wheel itself. Two screws hold the carrier bearing together. Remove them, then gently pull the top of the bearing off. You'll need to support the wheel while you do this, as it will tend to fall out and tug on the encoder's wires.

There are four plastic connectors that you'll see. Ensure these are connected tightly. Look at the encoder and make sure that the round tab sticking out of it is not damaged. That tab fits between two plastic leaves that are attatched to the bottom half of the case. If any of those are damaged, cement them back in place. Alternately, you might attatch the encoder to what's left of it with double sided tape.

The carrier bearing itself probably won't need repair, so ignore it. Inspect the gears for loose or missing teeth. Also, check the wires that are going to the motor. Once that's done, carefully remove the wheel and shaft from the case. On the case you will see a plastic part that protrudes into an opening on the back of the wheel. That opening has a channel that the plastic stop mechanism on the case rests in. If the channel or the stop device is not smooth, it'll produce a bump. Smooth them down if need be.

When you re assemble the unit, you need to make sure that the encoder is properly seated before you assemble the carrier bearing. Once all that's done, check the wiring one more time and re assemble the wheel just the opposite way of taking it apart.

I've noticed extreme braking problems in GT4 with this wheel. You must adjust the car's brakes to get around this problem. That means buying a $10,500 brake controller. Typical set up on most cars is 70% front and 30% back braking. Pay attention to which brake set yu are acutally adjusting.

Do note that much of this post applies to the Driving Force Pro as well. It was first on the list at Google when I looked the repairs up. Logitech's website is suxing in the repair and trouble shooting department--evidently they want you to spend $130 on a new wheel.

I found out why the wheel won't boot up sometimes. One of the green lights would turn on when the PS2 booted up, and then the wheel would fail to register with GT3 and GT4 both. The lights are supposed to stay dark at bootup until the software initializes the wheel.

The trouble is caused by ring cracks on the board. During a race, the wheel's internals twist and flex just as much as a simulated Miata does after smacking the wall in Noveau Chicane at Monaco. Obviously, that's bad. The solution to this is easy, but getting the board out is not.

Caerfully replace the board once it has cooled and re attatch all the wires firmly. It won't work for even a test unless they're firm. Boot up the PS2 and watch the lights. If they are all dark, wait for the wheel to move during its calibration phase. Run a couple of laps of Grand Valley if it works. If all goes well on Grand Valley, then the wheel is fixed. If not, then perhaps you need to hone your driving skills. Run through the menus a bit to check the d pad and the rest of the controls. This would be a good time for GT4 players to b spec so that they can finish the race they started.

I found out the hard way that the Driving Force is fragile as an egg inside. I cracked one of the board mounts when I was tightening it down. Be aware of this as you work on the wheel. Sure the outer shell is tough, but inside is a totally different story.

In my opinion, this is a piece of hardware that Sony should have built themselves instead of letting a third party do the job. I prefer first party controls over third any day of the week, with only a couple of exceptions.

Oh, almost forgot: I've read some complaints about the Driving Force "losing power from the USB bus". This is characterized by the wheel suddenly going "soft" and unresponsive, then setting the center position to something totally weird. I suspect this is also caused by ring cracks. The ring crack opens, the wheel shuts down, and the player steers in futility. As the wheel is turned, it eventually closes the ring crack and the player unknowingly fights the calibration routine, thinking the force feedback is also going haywire. This results in the center position being set precisely where the wheel is at the end of the calibration.

I guess this is turning into a mini blog. $#!@ing Logitech. ALthough there were some ring cracks in my Driving Force, I had to cut the stupid molex plug off the biggest connection on the board and solder it direct.

I got my Logitech G25 working very nicely in Win98se with the Logitech LGS460 drivers. It is seen as a Logitech Driving Force Pro USB but everything

works except the Clutch, which isn't very important, especially as it's hardly used and most old games don't support it anyway.

I tested in Colin Mcrae Rally 1 and it was all good. The force feedback is quite rubbish in this game as it just rattles the wheel to varying

degrees but otherwise it all tested ok. Had to set Pedals to combined axis otherwise I had no acceleration or braking.

Thanks for the info. So, uhm, Colin Mcrae Rally 1 supports vibration only? No real forcefeedback? Right now I'm also looking for a wheel to use it on my retro win98 PC. Especially in Need for Speed 5 Porsche Unleashed. This game has fantastic force feedback (you can really feel the car). Could you please test how G25 works in that title if you have it?

I have a Driving Force GT, which will *probably* work too, but I'd like to try it. Without custom drivers it runs in a basic compatibility mode (auto-center, 180 degrees, combined axis), but this isn't ideal.

... and in my case, this makes things worse. The "Driving Force Pro" drivers are marked with the yellow exclamation mark, and the device doesn't function this way. Guess the Driving Force GT isn't close enough to work this way. Either that, or it's because I'm running 98 first edition. It also gave me some bluescreens on disconnect, which was fun. What's less fun is trying to remove the drivers which are sticking around even after the uninstall ?

What's weirder still, is that after fiddling with all that, manually removing the logitech driver file, and manually telling Windows to use the default HID Joystick driver... it works. The control panel option still (somehow) has the Logitech panel, and the force feedback gimmicks all function correctly there. I had to switch it to combined pedals for it to respond, but respond it did.

After installing NFS Porsche Unleashed, I fired it up and started a quick race. Force feedback.. technically works? But while it seems like vibration is working, the directional effects aren't really happening much at all. I've got the "Road Grip" and "Stick Volume" effects all the way up and zeroed out Engine and Road Effects to prevent them from interfering (both of which work, but just rumble it). It feels like it's trying to do something, but it doesn't end up working at expected.

... and yeah, the effect is there in Win 7, gone in 98. Granted, the road grip effect isn't great; you either have perfect traction, or absolutely zero when you are skidding, without good directional feedback based on the direction of skid. But either way, the difference is not there when running on Windows 98 at all. At least in the (be it somewhat unusual) configuration I ran the game under.

The reason I'm asking about NFS PU is that for the wheel I have this noname monster (AVB something something) which from the electronics side looks like a knock-off from another extremely expensive pro-grade wheel made by some corp the name of which I can't remember. Anyway, I'm using sorta hacked drivers from this corp and damn it works great in NFS PU... All those effects with that - I'm going to rip your hands off - motor inside the wheel... But only under Windows 98. In windows xp and later all I'm getting is vibration and driver-side centering.

I would buy a proper modern wheel but I'm interested in working ff in NFS PU. Could you please confirm it in modern OS again, zerker? Before that topic I believed that such a behaviour is because of the Need for Speed which somehow defaults to simpler ff effects in NT systems. Looks like it is not?

If you are running on Windows 8 or newer, you will also need some way to get back to 60 fps. I just used nGlide and forced the game into GLIDE rendering mode. There may be other solutions; I know I've used a replacement ddraw.dll in some 2D games on Windows 8 when they are throttled by modified backwards "compatibility". I'm sure there's something similar for 3d games.

I will have to set up my Win98 pc maybe tonight and give this a go. It may well be that even though the G25 works in Win98se, but recognised as a Driving force Pro USB, that may not

be enough for proper force feedback effects.

I did spend quite a while trying to get newer drivers to install in Win98se, by modifying ini files and swapping and renaming files here and there, but was unsuccessful. Back in the day I only

had a Wingman Formula Black that had no FFB, so as long as the wheel works I'm happy. Of Course properly working FFB would be nice though.

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