Thefirst of a few different projects underway has launched on Kickstarter, this one allowing you to control your Peloton bike via Zwift (or any other app), letting it simulate the ups and downs of a course, while also getting power data into the app via standard Bluetooth Smart FTMS/Power/Cadence protocols, just like any other smart trainer.
In short, the way SHIFT works is to place a removable device atop the red Peloton knob, sorta like putting a shoe upside down atop the knob. This device then figures out the calibration of your bike and is able to change the resistance on the fly based on what Zwift is telling it to do, such as simulating an 8% grade, or a 250w interval in workout mode. The device will work with both the Bike and Bike+, though it does appear to require two different pledges (despite the knobs being very similar). The difference at the knob level being the Bike+ is a true smart bike in that it can already hold and set various resistance values (again, up until now, only within the closed box that is Peloton).
So with that all set up, the red part of the SHIFT will rotate your Peloton knob to simulate hills or interval workouts. Just like any other smart trainer in effect. In fact, it has a stepper motor, just like many smart trainers do:
There are a variety of counter actions & generally annoying things they could do if they want to try to retain absolute control over the customer experience. Whether they would be worth the effort depends on whether they had plans future plans in that space.
Would the SHIFT + the mentioned project from DFC used together be the ideal auto-resistance & power+cadence combo? Or is the DFC project power output essentially the same as what the SHIFT would provide to zwift and therefore you would be better off with a cadence sensor only?
So the DFC device mentioned in this article that you were testing recently looks an awful lot like a Raspberry Pi + Gymnasticon open source project solution. I have that at home and it works, even my Karoo2 picks it up. This is the project:
I used the released image with my Raspberry Pi 4 and obtained the necessary daisy chain of cables to both intercept the power/cadence data as well as feed it back to the tablet and convert serial to USB port on my rPi 4. Here is the original pull request for the Peloton support:
Wanna save some cash and support the site? These companies help support the site! With Backcountry.com or Competitive Cyclist with either the coupon code DCRAINMAKER for first time users saving 15% on applicable products.
Have you tried the micro adjustment of Di2?
Press and hold the button on the Junction A box until light stays on continuously.
On my Garmin I can then see the setting it is at, which is between -15 and +15. Using the right shifter you can then change this setting which will move the rear derailleur slightly left or right. This is the equivalent of turning the barrel adjustment on the mechanical systems.
I had a similar issue with different sized SRAM cassettes (10-36 road, 10-33 trainer). I ended up getting an identical cassette for the trainer as my road wheels and have no problems. When I had Ultegra mechanical on my old bike I also matched cassettes on the wheel and trainer and needed no adjustments. Also, I assume you verified both cassettes are installed identically (e.g. no spacers).
It just takes a few hundreths difference for the shifting to be off. I have the same problem not with my kicker and my main wheels, but between three different sets of wheels from three different hub manufactures. (gravel/cross/road wheel sets) Each one is just a bit different, so when I swap wheels, I have to readjust the shifting.
KICKR BIKE SHIFT features virtual shifting and custom gearing that allows you to match the gear ratios of your outdoor bike, replicating the major groupsets from Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo to create a personalized ride experience.
3a8082e126