Wilcom Applique Tutorial

[Namuncura Mckoy]

Firstyou'll need a shape. You can draw it in Inkscape, trace a simple bitmap, or start with an existing SVG. For my example, I'm going to borrow the hadrosaur from the Dino Nugget Charms pack. The SVG is included so if you have those, you can do the same. I had to close up the turning opening, but that's pretty basic.

I like to put them on layers, because then I can duplicate them and they'll stay color-sorted, but it's not necessary. I want one that's a wide, solid line. Ink/Stitch will turn that one into a buttonhole stitch: a tight zigzag almost indistinguishable from a satin stitch. I'm going to do this in a nice 3mm covering stitch, because minky is fuzzy and always needs at least that much for clean coverage.

Now I'm going to send that to the bottom, so it's behind the other stitches for now. You can see I reordered my layers, but if you're all on the same layer you can just hit End and it should send that behind everything else.

Next I'm going to take one of the other two lines, and do a Dynamic Offset. This will give me a teeny little diamond handle on the path - I can grab it and it will grow and shrink my shape, but by adding it evenly all around. It's just like adding a seam allowance, and in fact that's what I often use it for.

My non-zigzag lines were already dotted because I took them from the Charms file, but if they hadn't been I'd change them to a dotted line. It doesn't matter which type, just as long as it's not solid Ink/Stitch will treat it as a running stitch. The width doesn't matter, but I usually set it to 1px for consistency.

I also do an Extensions > Ink/Stitch > Params and set my stitch length to a nice baste length of 3.5mm, because otherwise it'll default to a tiny 1.5mm stitch and that's a waste of machine time. It's no big deal otherwise.

And that's it! I'm going to add some words (in Bluenesia, my current favorite font. Then, to use the design, I'd stitch out the placement layer (shown in red, though I'd stitch all three layers in gold). I'd slap a bit of nubby gold minky or terry on top, and stitch the tackdown layer. Then I'd use my applique scissors to trim close to the tackdown. Anywhere I can't just barely see the placement stitching underneath it, I'd trim a little closer. Then I'd run the zigzag, probably with some water-soluble stabilizer on top to tame the pile. As you can see from the simulator, with the edge of the applique in between the two running stitches, the zigzag will cover it smoothly.

A tip: if you're appliqueing minky onto minky, putting a layer of water-soluble stabilizer under the applique will hold the pile down and help keep you from cutting divots out of the base fabric. It's not a sure thing - you can cut through the stabilizer pretty easily - but if you focus on sliding your scissors along the stabilizer and not pushing the point into it, it'll help a lot.

The smooth curves of the dino nugget are fine for zigzag, but if your shape has corners you'll notice that it doesn't fill them in. Extensions > Ink/Stitch > Tools: Satin > Convert Line to Satin will give you a full-fledged satin stitch, and you can use the node tool to edit the rungs to guide the satin stitch the way you want it. That gets a little more advanced, and you may need to look into Ink/Stitch's tutorials on satins.

Add bold color and dimension to your embroidery with 3D applique. This tutorial explains how to create 3D applique designs that are stitched and layered outside the hoop, so you can arranged the various pieces to your discretion. Get our best tips and tricks for stitching 3D organza applique!

3D applique designs include several files. After downloading and unzipping, you'll find an embroidery file for each applique piece, as well as files marked with the letters "DL." Those are "dieline" files, and are used to cut the organza to the proper shape and size.

The Magnolia in 3D design has 14 files. 7 are for the petals and flower center, and 7 are dielines.

Open the DL/dieline file with your embroidery software, and print it. This is called a template.

If you don't have software, Wilcom's TrueSizer is a free program that can print templates.

Spray the back of a paper template with temporary adhesive and smooth it onto a piece of organza. Cut out the shape.

Repeat this for each dieline. When cutting fabric for the smallest piece, the flower center, use felt. That's a sturdier fabric than organza, and will work the best to hold the layers together.

Attach the hoop to the machine, and embroider the largest petal design.

The color change sheet will be your guide and tell you the order that things stitch. First is an outline that traces the shape for the applique fabric.

Attach the hoop back to the machine, and continue embroidering the design.

A tackdown stitch will sew next. These stitches hold the fabric in place.

Continue embroidering the design. A satin stitch border finishes the piece.

After the pieces are dry, arrange them on top of one another. The largest piece will be at the bottom. Rotate each piece to allow the petals to overlap on the edges, creating a lovely three-dimensional effect.

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