Re: Poweramp 2.0.9 Build 548 Crackl
Kasey Finkenbinder
For nearly as long as I've been using Poweramp (many years) I have had issues with various files crackling and popping. It isn't every file, but I have not been able to find a pattern. It definitely occurs more on hi-res files (FLAC 24/44.1 or 24/48 or 24/96). I've attempted disabling DVC per output, for the whole app, and for the whole system (in developer options). I'm not using equalizers, or any other audio enhancements. Buffer is set to maximum.
No matter what I try, the issue persists. I just can't figure it out. I'm currently using build 860, but this has been occurring since v2. I tried to attach a file but it's too big. Can anyone assist with this issue? Poweramp is so close to perfect...but this issue drives me nuts.
Try listening with Flat equ. preset and bass set on 0%. If no artifacts - your issue is in the clipping due to the high volume + high basses equalization. Limiter (LIMIT equalizer button) if enabled makes sound wow-ish around bass as well in this case.
For DVC to work properly over BT, absolute volume should be disabled (on samsung devices prior Android 10 it's named media sync). The detailed info is given in Settings / Audio / Direct Volume Control (DVC) page.
Absolute volume means 100% volume samples are sent to the BT device - there is almost no dynamic range to apply any equalization. Good for Flat preset, no basses and DSP/tone/equalization done on the headunit.
When Poweramp plays music through bluetooth (I use it only in the car) sound does slightly crackling. Not much but enough to recognize it, particularly on Jazz. All I tried so far is disabling / enabling DVC for bluetooth. Are there other settings I should check?
@andrewilley Hi. Yes I have tried different output methods. The issue keeps persisting. I tried a lot. But now I recognized something. My Jazz collection is in .flac, some albums in .aac format. When I play the same song / album in .mp3 format all the crackling is gone. Is there something I can do to optimize audio regarding .flac ? That explaines why I mentioned n my post above that the crackling appears particularly on Jazz music. Since most of my other music is in .mp3 format there is no crackling. The crackling is good to hear on bluetooth output but also on jack output, although less pronounced.
May be interesting to note that the crackling appears already at the very beginning of a quiet song, even then when the sound didn't even started. The first 1 or 2 seconds at the start of a song were the audio output should be totally silent.
Another question; I actually use only Folders Hierarchy. Then I choose a folder and navigate by swiping through the albums. Since a while ago, sometimes Poweramp jumps to another folder when I swipe for the next song within an album. Any suggestion to solve that?
Sounds like PA is not able to read the larger FLAC files from storage fast enough, whereas the more compressed MP3s are being loaded quickly enough. Did you increase the buffer size in your chosen output method to as large as it will go to see if that helps? (latency will be very high, so a middle ground would be ideal)
2nd Question: Sounds like you have got Shuffle mode enabled. Regular swiping should never take you to a new folder unless you are are the very end of the current one and you do an extra-wide swipe gesture. Turn Shuffle off using the icon on the right under the cover artwork on the player screen.
Ok, I applied exact the settings you shown on your screenshot. Listened last night and today and it seems the crackling is gone on jack. Will test it later on Bluetooth but I think it should be ok too. That's great if it stays that way. Thanks. Glad I can keep my .aac and .flac playlists. Now it's time to create to export all the settings.
So for instance in that screenshot on the post above, it'll be effectively (8*120) to give the approximate 900 value? Or is it more like a parallel implementation where each buffer is responsible for various parts of the DSP processing?
@samuelawachie the default value is optimized for a standard android device with the stock ROM, but that may be increased if you have custom rom, tweaked bluetooth implementation, instability in BT connection, etc. There is a trade off between buffer size and latency, increasing buffer size (which is number of buffers multiplied by buffer size) increases latency. Poweramp tries to hide latency, so reasonable buffer increase won't affect usability, but very large values will.
I have been using Poweramp for little over a year now and I find it to be the best music player on the Google Play store. Though recently I've been experiencing static crackling and popping noises through my earphones. This is not a consistent thing but however is really annoying when I'm listening to quieter tracks. I've tested to make sure it's not the earphones by listening to music on YouTube and other music players and it's not my earphones. I don't really want to get rid of Poweramp as I paid for it. I've tried changing the priority settings to high and the buffer settings, it made little difference. Could someone please help. My phone is a NEXUS 4.
When hearing to His-Res Music, (24bit, 96KHZ), I hear static crackling noise... I use a BT speaker (blackbeat pro). I must reboot the phone to make this boring issue to stop. But the issue will start again after a while. If I switch from 16bits to 24 bits, then I get the issue also, even if I hadn't it yet before.
I have a Hartke Kickback combo which I have had since new in 2001. I've never had a problem with it until recently when it has started to make loud crackling noises when I'm playing. What is doing my head in is it won't do it at home. I have the head unit opened up and I've poked around whilst playing, tapping on the circuit board, poking wires and components to no avail.
When setting up at the gig it is ok, then into the first number it starts. It seems to be keeping up with the drums which makes me think it is a bad/dry joint somewhere but I can't locate it. It is not anything else in the chain as last week after it kicking off in the first number I swapped over to a backup head using all the same leads into the same speaker and there were no problems.
Right now I have the amp set up at home, same settings from the gig, and I'm playing through it whilst a mate thumps on the cab with a rubber mallet (stop laughing at the back) and it is behaving itself.
Any suggestions how I can trace this fault?
As it is so old, I would check possible connections between the pre and power amp. This unit does not have an FX loop but there is a headphones connection. Check it out and at least clean it. Some deoxidizer may help.
I have a PDF circuit diagram for a 2005 HA 1200 which shows no plug/socket connections between pre and power amps, but all 120 watts pass through the headphone switching contacts. That would be my starting point.
Had a poke and fiddle with the headphone jack whilst playing and couldn't get it to crackle but I've now given the socket a spray with contact cleaner and inserted a jack multiple times.
As I said I have not been able to replicate this fault at home and Tuesday is the next time it will be used in a band setup so I will have to wait and see.
I have a kickback and find once you use it with a drummer it struggles with volume, I get round this by backing off the bass a little on the eq. The amp seems capable of driving the speaker beyond it's excursion limits. When you change to a different head you won't have an identical response and that may be what is curing the problem. It could be as simple as a fault you only get on tilting the amp if you play one way at home and another at a gig.
A crackle though implies a connection problem, that could be anywhere from your kettle lead all the way back to the mains and anywhere in the signal chain from your bass through all the leads and any fx you use. It could also be radio frequency pickup. anything from a mobile placed near to the amp, someone else's dicky equipment in the band or any number of things.
A couple of weeks back I helped someone on TB in regards to removing the circuit board from this amp as he wanted to change the input jack socket. It had me thinking that mine is 20 years old and a new socket would not go amiss and I would give the board a fresh look at finding the fault.
On removing the old jack socket I noticed this....
Glad you got it sorted. I wish I had seen this back in the day - I would have suggested the headphone jack replacement route. A few years ago my amp would regularly and seemingly randomly mute itself (although it happened more when things were loud). Worked out that plugging a jack in and out of there a few times would provide temporary relief. Eventually I replaced the jack socket and the problem was solved. No obvious damage like the one which came out of yours but it was one of these types:
When the headphone jack is plugged in, it breaks the contacts shown and sends the signal down the headphone jack instead of passing it through to the speaker and the ground lift is detected by the amp and lights up a mute LED (which was very handy in piecing together what was happening). My guess is that the socket was cheap as chips and the contact(s) had lost their spring and were lifting away causing interruptions in sound and the LED to come on. Haven't had a problem since I replaced the socket.
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