Re: Windows 10 Usb Stick Download
Asela Buchheit
Unfortunately I will need to install this OS on my new PC. Since I only have Linux right now, I'll need to create media to boot from on my PC. I'd prefer it to be USB, since currently I have no access to disc drive. How can I create bootable USB stick with Windows 10, given I have the ISO file?
An alternative way would be by creating a new GPT partition table on the disk in something like gparted and giving it the "boot" flag. You'd then need to mount the iso and copy the contents over to a new NTFS partition like this:
My alternative was to install (using pacman on Archlinux) and use woeusb. Based on your distro, you may need to follow different instructions to install WoeUSB (e.g. ubuntu instructions). It offers both CLI and UI for creating the bootable disk from the .iso file (I used the UI flavor).
i have trouble booting from the usb stick on my hp 650 g1 (i5 4300m). i want to reinstall windows 10, the current that i have now it's win 10 educational with license included. i think i have the right boot option . legacy is on , safe boot off , i press esc then select to boot from the usb stick with rufus made win 10 enterprise. and it simply load into normal windows. i have tried the stick on the pc and it works as it's bootable. i have tried to make a bootable chrome cloudready usb stick and this ones it boots.. could some one figure why the windows 10 usb stick refuse to boot? could i have some ''restriction type laptop'' that has some functions turned off ? i got this laptop from somebody who worked in a bank.
hello. first of all thank you for your fast answer. if i recall correctly i have just 3 options ''notebook hard drive'' ''usb'' and ''network'' . but i will recheck as soon as i get acces to the notebook. i did not tried to make a bootable dvd but i will try this option as well. the odd thing is the chrome os newerware usb stick boots .(not directly, but by pressing esc + f9 and selecting usb)
i have added more pictures. with the bios settings.the thing is that the chrome os stick that boots is seen in windows as ''efi-system'' ,this was made on neveware with their own software of making usb sticks, and the windows 10 stick that doesn't boot is seen in windows as ''uefi ntfs'' , this one was made with rufus
When I'm moving a window, it often "sticks" to the cursor and ends up continuously following the cursor until i click it again. I hate this. How do I make it stop? This is not "window snapping" as it happens when I move just one window. Can't find anything in sys preferences that addresses this. HELP!
We understand you're experiencing an issue when attempting to move a window. Test to see if the issue continues after restarting your Mac. If it does, we recommend testing in safe mode: Start up your Mac in safe mode. Booting into safe mode can determine whether the issue is related to a software that starts up as the Mac starts up.
Hi All, I recently got windows installed and we went with insert installation, or Pocket Replacement. This way we didn't have to get our trim inside the house redone, nor all-new blind treatments which were all fitted for the old windows. Everything went well and they look good, however I was not expecting them to protrude out from the house as they are. The windows themselves only stick out an inch at most, but with the trim they put over them, it is about 2 inches total. Plus, where they were flush with the house before and had no caulking, now there is caulking all around, which i'm worried about both for maintenance and leakage with water. Is this normal for insert installation, should I be worried in anyway or have to maintain the windows differently? Thanks!
To put it more frankly, I think they went about it all wrong. Engineering flaws were designed into the install that I see as future problems. To do it correctly IMO you would have to remove the trim and redo it the correct way.
I've tried uninstalling, rebooting and then plugging back in which has worked once - but then suddenly last night it simply stopped detecting again, making me switch to keyboard. It's quite a strange problem. The usb cable for the stick is quite long; I hope the wiring itself isn't the problem. Hopefully I won't have to get a new stick, as this thing is a brick and has been excellent for many RetroUprising marathons.
Give those a try first, please, if you haven't already. See if you can find a windows 7 machine somewhere to test it on. And does the RAP3 have any function that allows you to select configuration while plugging it in? As in, you hold a different button while connecting to make it a PS3 stick, or PS4, or X360, etc? When it does show up in windows, when you look at control panel>devices and printers, what is the stick called? If it works on PS3, you could get some generic PS3 pad drivers and install those - not something i've had to do, there might be hoops to jump through.
I have seen similar issues with several brand-name fightsticks and boards on Windows 10. Do you have the same problem connecting to a PS4/PS3/X360 console? If not, open the stick and take a look at the usb connection to the stick's PCB and test connectivity of each wire with a multimeter. Does the board have a USB socket, or is it using individual wires? If it's using a JST-XH connector or similar, can you pull the connectors out of the plug and make sure they're ok? Are there four wires, or five? If there's five, try disconnecting the shield ground, or even reconnecting it while the stick is plugged in. I've seen sticks that would only work with the shield ground connected, and ones that would only work without, depending on the cable or which socket on the board was used, so try some different cables in different places on the PCB if you can.
I've now since tested the joystick on three Win 10 PCs and a Win 8 laptop. All of them have this fundamental device not recognised script error which makes me suspect that the USB cable is the issue. I don't own any consoles more modern than a PS2 to try it on unfortunately, but I've learned enough over the past week to think that it's the device itself which is the issue. Other flash disks work well in the USB port I've been using the stick in, making me now discount any PC-hardware or Windows issue.
Curiously though, when I've uninstalled from device manager, rebooted and plugged back in, the stick can sometimes work for a short 10-20 minutes before suddenly veering off in one direction in-game and becoming unresponsive. Unplugging, rebooting and configuring MAME can sometimes make it work again, but not for long enough to be stable for long term use.
To be honest, I don't have access to a multimeter, nor the general confidence or wherewithal to pull apart and test the connectivity. The question really is where to from here? I wonder if its possible to go to a local electronics specialist/repairman and see if they can replace the USB cable? Can't say I've ever tried to get anything like this repaired; the stick itself was a hand me down, but a relatively expensive and robust one. It should surely provide plenty of hours more usage once repaired.
I do hate to resurrect my thread from last year, but unfortunately some issues have arisen again with my Hori stick. Several of the joystick directions started to fail to work correctly after a heavy rage-quit from some MGL action awhile back. :redface
So I was curious if anyone knew of a location or business that I could get to take a look at it and possibly get it working again? Maybe a local one in Melbourne? I quite like the stick and would hesitate to purchase a new one.
Hmmm, how about trying someone in the FGC? You could get onto various SF or Tekken Facebook groups and see if anyone wouldn't mind giving it a look. That's going to be the cheapest option. After that, someone who makes fight sticks in Aus might be able to install a new encoder, if that's what's required.
Sometimes this kind of thing happens when the stick has had a lot of wear, and the blades that trigger the microswitch don't have enough spring back against the shaft, because of wear they are pushed in too far.
I've solved this kind of thing heaps of times by removing the microswitch, and bending the blade back so it sits out more against the shaft and then will more easily get pushed by the shaft on the switch.
If you get my drift. There's nothing really to 'clean' in a microswitched arcade joystick, but tuning the blades often will do the job - or failing that, just replace the microswitches, they are dirt cheap and extremely simple to do even for someone who's never done it before.
Any business doing electronics repairs would probably be able to swap the encoder, including that place you already tried, but you might have to provide the encoder. Assuming that's actually the problem. The stick itself wouldn't be hard to test with a multi meter, but i suspect your appliance repair place would already have done that.
Bizarrely, the only thing wrong with it apparently was that a connecting cable had been inserted incorrectly (backwards?) causing the directional problems I was experiencing. This was probably unwittingly done by the previous chap I took it to locally. Everything is now back to working order.
Have you tried checking the device drivers to see if they need to be updated? That's one of the first things I would do in this situation. Also, have you checked out any forums specifically for the arcade stick to see if there have been any known compatibility issues with Windows 10? Sometimes the manufacturer will have information on their website or forums that can help you troubleshoot. And of course, you can always check out the Windows 10 subreddit or forums on windows 10 product key reddit for any helpful tips. There are many professionals that might help. Good luck!
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