How To Smart Switch For Mac
Osoulo Lejeune
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I have 2 hs210 switches at the beginning and end of a series of switches, with a dumb switch in the middle, with 2 black and 2 red wires and 1 ground. If i turn off the middle switch it cuts power to the last hs210. So you cant use 2 3-way switches in a 4way setup? Both hs210s are setup as a pair but if the middle switch is turned off, the light will not work.
@NorCalRicky I have a four way setup. At first I installed two HS210 switches but realized only one is required. So I have standard three way, a standard four-way and an HS210 on the circuit and they all work (although the HS210 does not detect when I turn on the light using the four way switch. So it is possible you just have to get the wires right.
I have a similar issue with a three way setup. When I replaced the one or the two HS210 switches with a standard three way switch that standard switch turns off power to the HS210. I need to figure out the correct wiring.
OK, I have the same question....or similar anyway. It is not clear to me from any of the literature or postings here how many HS210's I need to control a simple 4-way circuit. Actually it might not be considered "simple" as it is a single group of lights controlled from 7 different locations. However, it should still be simple in that it simply uses 2 standard 3-way switches, one on either end, with five 4-way switches in the middle. The concept is the same regardless of the number of control locations.....you replace one of the standard 3-way switches with a HS210. Right? Or, do you have to replace BOTH standard 3-way switches with HS210's....requiring two HS210's? This is unclear. I am seeing both methods suggested here. I would assume you only needed to replace one. But I tried that and it didn't work. The HS210 kept clicking the lights on and off at about a two second interval. I was sure I had it wired right, (I'm wiring it at the "line" end of the circuit where the power first enters) but tried changing the configuration.....still, same result. I tried the 3rd possibility and now nothing worked...I abandoned the project to do more research.....with no success...so now I'm here. The Kasa app actually makes this more complicated than it needs to be....or it's so simplified that I don't understand it. It does seem to maybe imply that I need two HS210's (or does it?). It's not like I don't have some electrical experience.....I actually wired this whole house 20 years ago including this 7 switch light circuit. A simple actual wiring diagram would be helpful.
@dmd4home That suggests that you do not have the correct (constant) line and neutral connected to the appropriate terminals - it seems like you have it powered with switches in a certain configuration and when you switch the output state of the HS210 you are losing power to the device and therefor also the Wifi - regardless of what the outputs are doing, it must maintain line and neutral to the device in order to have the WiFi circuit active.
Regarding the TPLink WiFi signal on your phone - that is present when the device is in AP mode - pairing mode - and is used to set up the device with your app where you will then input your SSID/P/W that you wish to use to connect to the device.
I would do a general exclusion first (put the hub in exclusion and turn the switch on/ off). Then when you try to include it go to the GE section and select GE on off switch. I have about 30 of them and some are stubborn. Good luck!
I just installed three of these last week and none were just discovered with the broad discover devices tool without help. I had to actually add a specific GE switch under the lighting section and when narrowed down to the type of GE switch and then it was discovered. All three working great.
In the end I wound up putting my old Securifi A+ hub into general exclusion, popping the air gap and pressing on/ off/ /on a few times. Then having ST search for it. After about the third or fourth try it finally connected. I am pretty sure my neighbors to the back were less than thrilled I was flashing the back spot lights on/off from 11:45pm- 1:20 am trying to get it reincluded.
As it turns out I had to move the SmartHub to my wifi extender that is upstairs. I guess 25 feet away is too far a way for it to connect. When it was moved to 10 feet away it connected right away. My house is not that large (1950 sqft), what do you guys do if you have a large house?
I recently installed a Wyze Cam Floodlight to replace an existing flood light that was on a standard light switch inside the house. Afterwards I installed a Wyze Smart Switch as to keep the kiddos from turning off the power to the floodlight. In trying to setup the switch for smart control I wanted to just single press to toggle the flood lights on/off without cutting off the power to the whole device. Is this possible? I was able to get the double tap and triple tap to turn on and turn off respectively but this is not going to be user friendly for most people.
I have installed the wyze flood and wyze switch as well. Would love to be able to program the single tap feature to turn on the flood lights. I currently have that programmed as a double press function. I hope someone from Wyze is reading this thread!
I have tried repeatedly to use the rules and everything looks correct but the floodlight does not turn on. I would hope that someone from wyze support could escalate this as a potential bug in the app/rules.
I absolutely love color bulbs , and swapped out every bulb with a color bulbs in the house. ( Mainly zwave , but testing matter bulbs now , kitchen bulbs are wifi and wife keeps turning off with the switch)
I have these in my house. I don't have the "smart" bulbs, but I do have them controlling dimmers in my living room and bedroom. If you want to leave the switch on, put a switch locking tab on the switch. Then have the dimmer switch (really a button controller) control the lights. It will give your wife a physical button to push to turn the lights off and on and can also control dimming if the bulb supports it.
Edit: I did not see them on any site. They have likely been discontinued. However, there are some others out there. I can't say whether any of them would work for you, but it is an option that may have the WAF if you can find something equivalent.
It sounds like you didn't look when their new products (Blue and Red 2-in-1) were released. Pre-orders and general orders were available for a while, but it looks like both are currently backordered, and the only ones I see with a date are the Blue ones with an estimate for January. Unfortuantely for you if you want to use Z-Wave Association, those are Zigbee -- but the new Red Series, when available (again), should work.
A remote, as also mentioned above, is a different option that could also work. If you want Z-Wave Association, the Zooz ZEN34 would be my recommendation. If you don't care about Z-Wave, Lutron Picos are hard to beat in every way except initial startup cost since you'll need the Pro Bridge or a higher-tier system to get started -- but after that... (without association, either can be configured like a regular button device in Hubitat, as could any device including the Eria remote above, which I have a couple of but can't stand to use on a regular basis since they seem to take a couple seconds to respond if you haven't used them in a while, possibly depending on your network topology).
Any smart switch that integrates with Hubitat can be used to control smart bulbs. It's just about how you wire it and features that are available. For instance, the house my wife and I bought last year has Treatlife (Tuya) switches everywhere. They work via the Tuya Cloud integration, and are fairly quick to control my Hue bulbs. If you wire the line and load together, but still power the smart switch, it turns the switch into something that just sends events to Hubitat. I then use Switch Bindings to bind the switch and bulbs together and it works well; though, I have since built enough automation that no one really uses the switches anymore.
With that said, I do not really recommend going this route with WiFi switches. I would look for things that send push events to Hubitat (Zigbee, Zwave, or Lutron) rather than relying on polling like WiFi does. If you really wanted to get WiFi, you would want something that connects via Matter to Hubitat. We finished our basement last spring and installed Lutron down there, so I'm in the process of revamping the rest of the house.
The final option is to use Hue buttons and devices that mount over your light switch. sells some awesome stuff that does not replace any of the switches, still allows easy access without needing to rewire, and the devices can integrate directly into Hubitat.
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