Carpet Model
Tisa
Please feel free to add any techniques you may have. And by all means improve them if you can. I do not take credit for any techniques covered in this post. The pics I've posted in the following context are of my own work. But just the work. Not the idea.
Flocking. Flocking is the material on the strip that touches the windows of your car. The strip at the bottom that runs the length of the door. Its fuzzy like felt. But its flock. And to flock correctly you need a flocking gun. In the scale world you dont need the gun. I have not used flocking, but have seen people flock their cars and they're gorgeous.... usually.
Embossing powder. Embossing powder is essentially an alternative to flock. I have the least amount of experience with this technique. In all fairness I didnt use exactly embossing powder either. The stuff I used was more like a gritty sand. I applied it over Elmer's white glue. I painted the glue on with a brush and sprinkled(essentially dumped) the powder(sand-ish) over the top waited for it to dry then tapped off the extra. I was okay with this as an experiment. I wouldn't be overly satisfied with this as my finish piece. I'll touch up the spots I missed or was a little lack luster on. The material seems fragile on the tub and too much handling would be certain tragedy. Or rework. Which isnt fun any way you look at it.
Felt...... goes without saying... cut. Paste. Carpet.... not a huge fan of this but sometimes...meh.... I did a bed carpet in this lightning . It's one of those never going to tow? Going to the show kinda rides.
For this you'll need some things. Here is my layout. Modge podge, or Elmer's glue, (Both are acrylic and water washup) a couple different sized brushes, 2 sheets of computer paper, screen, a cheese/veggie grater, scissors, and your cardstock.
I cut up my cardstock and fold it over a few times to give my a rigid piece to grind down. I try to keep my paper at a 45 angle on the grater. Also I use the medium sized holes. The small holes make a mess. You can see the result of this on the following pic of the screen. This is unusable. Its essentially twine.
So using the medium holes and going at a 45 angle in all directions, (Dont have to really press. Let the grater shred the paper. Not your fingers.) You should end up with a decent pile of stuff. The pile shown is made from a cardstock the size shown next to it.
If your doing carpet you can just put your screen right over your tub. If doing like seats or doors then I'd suggest a small container. Transfer your shavings from the paper to the screen. Put the part on a fresh sheet of paper. Rub the shavings over the screen. You can push the material down a little with your finger or some other tool. Wait a few for it to dry then tap off the extra on the paper you originally used. This can be recycled for the next section of carpet material. You can always touch up areas too. Just be careful how far you go with the brush and glue.
Nice write up! Personally I think the best method is flocking in combination with spray adhesive. You have to mask off the areas you don't want covered which can be a pain but the results are worth in in my opinion. You can patch any mistakes with the white glue method afterwards. But it really delivers a clean and even finish.
P/P, thanks for posting this. I originally saw it when you responded in a WIP thread, and the novelty of your procedure intrigued me. Once I saw the pic of the red interior, it made me think you were on to something that someone else might find beneficial.
I used this in my lightning model as a bed rug. Was decent tho seems more like the fabric you'd see on a woofer box generally speaking. The only other thing I didnt really like was how kind of unforgiving it is. Like going around molded in center consoles.
I mask off the area that I don't want carpeted, then spray a coat of paint the same color as powder, and dump on the powder right away, before the paint starts to dry, let it dry, then pour off excess powder, and you've got carpet. I've done it this way many times, and it works perfectly. Do it on a sheet of newspaper, and you can just pour the extra powder back into the jar, and it will last forever.
Yep, Steve that is right, make sure your paint is still wet. I actually have the paint in one hand, and embossing powder in the other, and as soon as the paint is applied, I dump a lot of the powder on and forget about it for at least a couple hours. After that, just tip your floor over and give it a little tap, and you get a perfectly smooth carpet.
Hey Steve, I wasn't even looking for it and found it by accident. I also found some tan that I think could be mixed with the black to make that hood insulation. I'd be glad to send them both, just PM your address to me.
I've been using the 'wet paint' method and so far have had good results, albeit I've only done a few parts to my Barracuda build. Since gloss colors tend to dry the slowest, that's all I've used, but even at that there's a short window to get the surface covered and not have dry spots.
The parts I've done are for a '66 Barracuda. The console has a lot of carpet attached to the bottom that drapes over the trans tunnel. I made that area out of .010 sheet and used a fine embossing powder. I have one that's a little more course, but it gave too high a build for the application. I think for parts like this console, or the carpeted bottom of door panels, or any other carpeted area that's not the floor, I'll be using the finer powder. For the floor, I'll try the courser stuff.
I've also been experimenting with other powders for other textures. For the top, plastic part of the console, I used all purpose flour. I tried that, as well as baking powder and corn starch. The flour had the best texture. A lot of 60's Mopars have a more 'pebbley' grain on all the surfaces so it looks really good. For other types of grained surfaces, it may not look as good or to scale.
I have noticed HL has a couple different sizes of embossing powder. The smaller size jars are a bit expensive for the amount of powder. However the larger, coarser, version is a bit more reasonable. Has anyone used the coarser stuff with pleasing results? My hobby budget is pretty tight and I really do not need another jar of useless material sitting around my workbench. I have used flocking for many years with somewhat mixed results and I have a plastic shoebox full of colors, so switching to embossing powder is going to be quite a drastic change for me. Any comments?
1959 Chevy I finished just a few years ago. In this case I wanted a "deeper" red than what came out of the jar and I wanted some of the reflective grains of the powder to be toned down. I airbrushed the body color red (Roman Red) over the embossing powder to do this and this helps in "locking down" the grains so you don't have constant shedding while getting the interior together.
I am trying to work on practicing modeling basic things for learning, but I got stuck working on an outdated Blender tutorial. I want to model a rug/carpet so I can get better at the software, but I need to find something that matches up to what I currently have (Blender 2.9). Any advice?
Flocking looks unrealistic, unless you're looking to simulate something like plush carpeting used in a hot rod or pimp car; much better to get some embossing powder from your local Michael's or AC Moore's hobby chain and use that. Just spread some white glue down with a paint brush and sprinkle it on. It looks killer.
For rubber flooring (1960s and older and truck) I stipple black paint mixed with flat " Rubber " color 50 - 50 . For carpeted floors I use embossing powder , flocking and talcum powder . Yup , plain old talc ! It makes a fine worn looking floor ! And it's paintable too ! T.B.
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