Nissan Key Codes

[Juanjo Pollreisz]

Nissantrouble codes play a critical role in modern vehicle maintenance and repair. They serve as valuable indicators of underlying issues and help mechanics and car owners pinpoint problems quickly. By addressing these issues promptly, you can prevent further damage to your vehicle and save on repair costs in the long run.

The best way to deal with Nissan trouble codes is to prevent them from occurring in the first place. Regular vehicle maintenance, including oil changes, air filter replacements, and inspections, can help keep your Nissan running smoothly and minimize the chances of trouble codes appearing.

With the earlier Stageas they have a consult plug in amongst the fuses in the dash that can be read to try and diagnose issues with the car. No OBD2, consult ports were used in Nissans right up to the R34. [well, as far as I have read!]

It will flash the first number, pause, then flash the second number. If you have multiple fault codes they will flash one after the other, so say a 13 and a 12 will flash a one, pause, flash three times, pause, flash once, pause, flash twice. I have read [unconfirmed] it can show up to 9 different fault codes in a row, so noting it down as its reading to you is probably a good idea, lest restarting the whole process of trying to figure out where its up to in the errors, lol.

Stay away from Yellowjackets - my stag came with a set, they broke down soon after. So I bought another set and they barely lasted two years before the missed sparks returned. Now running a second hand set of splitfires and never had a problem :)

Agreed, i bought a set of yellow jackets and they set off errors on my dash it worked but not that well and eventually they crapped out when the car got up over the 200kw range..... not happy jan !!!!! lol. Splitfires for the win

Congratulations! This post has been upvoted from the communal account, @minnowsupport, by KeniKat from the Minnow Support Project. It's a witness project run by aggroed, ausbitbank, teamsteem, theprophet0, someguy123, neoxian, followbtcnews, and netuoso. The goal is to help Steemit grow by supporting Minnows. Please find us at the Peace, Abundance, and Liberty Network (PALnet) Discord Channel. It's a completely public and open space to all members of the Steemit community who voluntarily choose to be there.

Chris Adams started with Certified Transmission in 1986 as an R&R technician, and currently works as our Lead Diagnostician. His current duties involve training and advising our retail diagnosticians, as well as assisting in the research and development of our remanufactured products. He also holds ASE Master and L1 certifications.

This one was a learning experience for me, and I hope my journey will help others if they run into this same scenario. This vehicle came into our shop with the complaint of CEL on, loss of power, and would not accelerate. After turning the vehicle off for a while, the concern corrected itself and they were able to drive home.

I took the vehicle out for a road test to try to duplicate the concern. While I never experienced the lack of power concern (failsafe is what it sounded like), I did get the van to shudder or chatter on acceleration from a stop. After getting it to act up a few times I was able to duplicate the issue with a level of consistency while generally at 20-40% throttle. Before I even got the van into the shop to complete the additional diagnostic steps, I was convinced that this Quest needed a CVT replacement.

For those of you that have worked with these units before, you would know that this combination of codes usually results in an internal issue inside the CVT transmission. Since I am the lead diagnostician for Certified Transmission, I am not in the trenches day in and day out, so I wanted to review the service information for these codes.

A word of caution: If you are ever told to check line pressure on a CVT Transmission, do not just hook up the pressure gauge that you have used forever; these things can run more than 800psi. I do have two Snap-On 5000psi pressure transducers so I can certainly check line pressure on this unit easily, but not convinced at this point that I need to. I continue with the evaluation while I try to decide if I am going to recommend a line pressure test before I condemn the unit. I checked all the normal items like cooler lines, CV boots, and mounts as I was wrapping up, and as I began to shut the hood, I spotted something and went in for a closer look. I saw a split in the air intake tube. (Figure 2)

The engine seemed to run fine, and it never bogged or cut out. I had no MAF codes, no lean/rich O2 codes, so basically nothing that would draw my attention to it, but there it was. With the scan tool still connected, I narrowed down the PID list to focus on MAF G/s, O2 A/F, and load. (Figure 3)

I did not really see anything out of place; MAF G/s was at 3.63 so if you use the generic specs of liters vs. G/s at idle, 3.5L vs. 3.6G/s seemed normal to me. Full disclosure: I did not do a volumetric efficiency test although I probably should have, thinking that the tube would have to be replaced regardless of how that test turned out, I decided not to do it.

What if that was an over-generalized term and really covered anything related to the transmission or engine controls that could affect line pressure? Not necessarily just the control system inside the unit, but also a bad sensor reading certainly could fall into that category if that was the case. Knowing that it would take a minimum of 7-10 days to get a replacement unit built from our plant, I decided to tell the service writer that while I still think that we are going to end up needing a remanufactured unit, I do want to replace the intake tube and retest. The customer was informed of our plan and authorized the repair knowing that further repairs may be needed, and we ordered the new part from the dealer which was delivered the next day. (Figure 4)

How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and hardbody pickups:

The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier.

The VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU and the VG30E ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task. Some early 4-cyl HB ECU's have the switch as well. In any case it will have one or the other.

Pictures: This is the ECU from my very dirty (and wrecked) 89 VG30i Pathfinder. VG30E ECU's have a slotted round switch in the same place as the toggle switch.

Seat removed; ECU in place on the floor with cover. The cover has ONE screw holding it down. Remove that and the cover will pull off.

I don't know about the rest of you out there, but to get to the ECU under the seat and get that plastic cover off was quite a pain in the a! I tried using different tools to get that screw undone, but to no avail. Then :eek: , it dawned on me to take the seat out instead. Man did that make a difference!

All you have to do is unscrew the two front bolts and then take the plastic covers off the back of the chair rail that cover the back two bolts and unscrew them. Bing, the front seat is mobile and I just moved it toward the back seat.

Now the ECU is accessible, I can get that stupid plastic cover off and I can put the service manual on the drivers seat for easy reading while I lean in with the passenger door open. Also, it makes it easier to access the ignition to turn the key to the "on" position. Hope this might help others!

it depends on the years. the later ones (mine is 94) you just move the passenger seat forward and you can access the ECU without a prob. I think you only have to remove the seat on the first gen ones.

I'm cleaning my rig right now and have a question about my ecu .Well my seats are out of the front of the truck and I want to move the ecu can I put it in the glove compartment with out adding more wire.

The 96-2000 year Pathfinders have a diagnostic mode selector screw on the ECU. The ECU is located directly above the gas pedal tucked up behind the dash, with the mode selector screw on the top. The steps for the 4-cylinder at the top of the thread are the exact steps for the 96-2000 pathfinders once you find and access that screw.

How about for 2001-2004, with the 3.5 L? Or are we out of luck and need to purchase a scan tool? If so, any ideas on a reasonable scan tool for us not so mechanically inclined? I have the check engine light on, came on 36 km after fueling up, so everyone guesses it is the gas cap but no one here has a tool that will read the code. They want me to go to the dealer. Of course I have to go to the dealer for the gas cap anyway, that's the way it works in a small town! Thanks.

The ECU usually won't give you error codes unless something emissions-related quits working. Running funny isn't really emissions related, even if it is annoying. Try a tune-up and thorough checking-over first.

i looked in my 90 pathy and there is a small knob that turns from ideal adjust to diagnostic mode. so i turn the truck in the on position then turn the knob to the diadnostic mode i get the red and green flashing lights but then when i turn it back to the ideal adjust it just stays on. i waited several minutes to see if it would flask but nothing. any ideas?

$1000.00 Dollars of your money. I am satisfied with my 2012 Nissan NV 2500 HD at 98,000KM. They manufactured a great van to show what the market has been asking for. But, I just when to the stealership to get a synthetic oil change because I plan on keeping it for a long time. Also, my Check Engine Light / Service Engine Soon (CEL/SES) was on and they replaced the gasoline filler vent tube for around $400.00 a few days later once the part came in. The technitian told me it was the third filler tube he's replaced on NVs Later that day I fueled up and it was difficult to fill as usual. As I drive away I noticed the CEL/SES light was back on again. Back to the stealership. Now they tell me the EVAP Canister, filter, and Vent Valve needs replacing at another $600.00. So I get on the internet and many people are getting the same service charges. Nissan has a problem with the fuel venting (emmission control) on many of their NVs and Titans, and they know it. They need to recall with maybe a modified extended vent tube so it breaths cleaner air than what the rear wheel well (present location) has to offer.

3a8082e126