Jump Start 12 24v
Tory Lattin
When the situation calls for a vehicle jump starter that is trusted in emergencies, the Schumacher DSR115 ProSeries 4400 Peak Amp Jump Starter is the answer. This reliable unit offers two internal high-output AGM batteries to jump start 12- and 24-volt systems. The DSR115 is built with convenience and performance in mind, which is why it includes a digital display to check the battery percentage, an on/off switch, and a 2-amp external automatic charger for a quick recharge.
Built into each DSR115 is a 12-volt DC power outlet and 2.1A USB port to charge and run mobile phones, tables, or other accessories. This powerful jump starter is also safe to use with reverse hook-up warning when a battery is connected incorrectly.
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On a return trip from a great vacation last month, full family on board, I stopped for fuel, halfway home after a 2.5-hour flight. After gassing up the tanks, and hitting the restroom, we all got back in the plane. I turned the key, and the prop ticked, but wouldn't turn over. I suspected either the starter or the ignition switch. The battery was replaced last April, and I had just landed without any low voltage warnings, so low battery seemed unlikely, but I asked if they would give me a jump anyways, because I figured that would be the easiest solution if it happened to work, and I only needed one more start to get home where my usual shop could take a look at it.
Although I knew I had a 14-volt electric system, I did not notice the 28V sticker on this unit, and it did not occur to me that the unit would not be suitable for jump-starting a 14-volt plane. You may be able to guess what happened next. He fired up the diesel motor on the GPU and plugged it into the plane. I hopped in to see if the engine would fire. After about 5 attempts to crank over the motor, my lead-acid battery exploded with an audible thump, leaking acid through the drain hole installed for this purpose in the bottom of the battery box and belly of the plane:
This ill-advised course of action destroyed the battery and all three relays between the battery and the starter motor. The starter motor was also toast, although it probably was before that. I had to fly all of us home commercial, and return 3 weeks later after they had finally chased down all of the problems to pick up the plane.
The FBO involved, to their credit, fixed the damage and charged us only for the parts on the starter . The lineman apologized profusely to me, and said that he had recently used that cart to jump-start another Mooney that had a 24-volt electrical system. There was a "12-volt" placard on the plane, but it was inside the flapper door that covers the external power plug, and I guess he didn't see it. I did not even know the placard was there before this.
3. Continue my practice of planning fuel stops at locations with commercial airline service and on-field maintenance shops when possible. This is the first time I've had to use it, but I was very glad not to be at a small airport 2 hours from the nearest commercial ride home. It also was good that at least there were people there to help with the problems on a Saturday morning, instead of an unattended field with a self-service pump.
4. I have purchased a 12-volt DC external power placard and installed it on the exterior of the plane where it is more visible. Every plane with an external power plug should probably have a placard, in my opinion.
While the lineman played a role, I bear some of the blame for this. I watched him do it all, and I was in the pilot's seat turning the key. I will not make that mistake again. I was aware of the issues of jump-starting 12-volt and 24-volt cars, but the issue was never brought up during my private pilot training with respect to planes, or at any other seminar or event I've attended since.
It's unfortunate that the 12V and 24V systems use the same plug. Usually these sort of compatibility issues are solved by using incompatible plugs, but that's not the case. As much attention as is paid to such things in aviation, the ball has been dropped pretty hard like this in several areas, and folks like you are still paying the price from time to time.
Thanks for sharing that. That is one first class FBO. If someone does something to my airplane when I'm not there that's on them, but if, as pilot in commend, I'm standing there watching and even encouraging them do it, I have to know more about my airplane than a lineman does.
(One other thought . . . I am not a fan of getting a jump and taking off on what's probably a close-to-dead battery, alternator or something else in the electrical system. I'd rather figure it out on the ground than in the air. An engine failure in the air is pretty straight forward . . land, a fire is another thing completely.)
A powerful and super compact jump starter capable of starting 12V and 24V vehicles up to 8.0L gas and 7.0L diesel. Ideal for roadside assist, medium 12 or 24V trucks, agricultural and mid-sized earthmoving equipment.
Start the vehicle within 60 seconds after pressing the power button on Boost. After the 60-second timeout is complete, the unit must be powered off, then back on, to initiate a new jump-start sequence.
With two built-in 2.1A USB ports, you can power multiple devices at the same time, such as smartphones, tablets, action cameras, wireless headphones, wearables and more. With over 266 watt-hours of lithium power, the GB500 can provide endless hours of operation and recharge your devices multiple times before needing a recharge.
Integrated Voltmeter / 60 Second Countdown Timer. The Boost MAX GB500+ is equipped with an integrated voltmeter to help pinpoint battery issues. The voltmeter doubles as a 60-second countdown timer, which shuts off GB500+ after 60 seconds to help preserve internal battery charge.
This is a 12V/24V jump pack that can boost just about anything! Very compact and the entire kit is only 4 pounds. This jump pack uses the technology of lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4) chemistry, not Lithium Cobalt (LiCoO2). LiFePo4 is the most powerful, safest and most robust of all the lithium chemistries, plus double the life span of lithium cobalt packs.
Examples of what it can jump start: automobiles, diesel trucks, motorcycles, boats, construction equipment, experimental and certified aircraft, tractors, snowmobiles, ATV/UTVs, riding lawnmowers, and so much more.
mdnelson86 - 9/25/2014 23:31 Can someone explain to me exactly how the 12 volt/24 volt system works on the newer Steiger tractors? I have a 2010 385 and a 2011 335 that both have this system and I'm having a little trouble with the 335. I just put a monitor in the 335, and now I have a battery drain over the course of a few days to where the tractor won't start. I wired the power for the monitor up to the extra battery posts for jump starting the tractor since they were much easier to get to. I've done some more reading recently and it seems to me like pretty much everything runs of of one 12 volt battery. The second battery only gets hooked into the system when starting. The alternator only directly charges the primary battery, then some form of equalization circuit keeps the second battery charged the same as the primary battery. Is this all correct? I'm starting to wonder if having something wired to the jump start posts is causing a problem with the equalization circuit or the relay that hooks the 2 batteries in series for starting, causing something to stay powered up when it shouldn't be. Do you think this could be my problem? I unhooked the power for the monitor tonight and hooked it directly to the primary battery, but haven't had enough time to fully test it out.
You have the basics about right. The "12V" battery (rear) receives full charge from the alternator. The "24V" battery (front) only receives a 10 amp maximum charge rate through an electronic equalizer mounted in a somewhat less than convenient location on the front side of the battery box. The 10 amps available to the "24V" battery is adequate to replenish cranking loss and maintain a full charge but not adequate to charge a discharged battery. The 24 volt system cranks the engine and supplies the DeNox unit.
The jump studs are connected to the "12V" battery. If the "24V" battery (front battery) is discharged it must be boosted or, preferably, charged directly. Positive clamp on the positive post, the negative clamp can still be connected at the negative jump stud to charge the "24V" battery.
Fuse 5 (15amp, in the 24 volt fuse block mounted at the batteries) is the fuse that carries charging current from the equalizer to the "24V" battery, if this fuse is blown the "24V" battery will not charge. There is a 30 amp fuse mounted in a separate holder that powers the equalizer. There is an LED on the equalizer that indicates power to the unit and increases brightness when charging. Good luck finding and seeing it as there are harnesses in the way.
Simply switch to the required voltage and connect the 1 metre cables to deliver up to 1000A of current at 12 Volts or 500A at 24Volts. This feature-rich unit includes a 5-bulb worklight, audible warning when incorrectly connected and low battery alarm.
The jumpstart charges from mains and 12V with the adaptors provided so you can always be sure that it is ready when you need it and also has a 12V DC outlet to power electrical devices while on the move.
Welcome to this post. Today we look at jump starting a 24 Volt system using a 12 Volt ordinary vehicle. There are a few things to keep in mind and a few mistakes that can cost you big time, so, read carefully and make double sure you have the connections correct!
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