Ncontrol Tweak

[Cecelia Seiner]

Manyagree that console-based gaming is significantly more immersive than mobile gaming on an iPhone or iPad, and one of the primary factors to be considered in that is having access to a gaming controller that feels good in your hand.

Upon installing nControl, you can pair any of the following with your iOS handset for gaming purposes, so long as the game supports third-party controllers. Much like other Bluetooth devices, you can manage your list of available devices:

Depending on how much mobile gaming you do, nControl might be worth checking out. The tweak is available from the Chariz repository for $9.99, but at that price, we only see serious mobile gamers taking an interest; furthermore, the tweak supports all jailbroken iOS 7-12 devices.

Another good aspect is simply how well documented the tweak is. It has its own wiki page, with a detailed changelog, planned features and even a section dedicated to controllers the developers attempted to support but had no success with. No tweak I can think of has documentation this detailed and thorough, and succinctly answers so many frequently asked questions.

Disclaimer: nControl was purchased outright by me, for personal gaming use. This tweak was chosen to be highlighted by me, and the screenshots were provided to me by the developers either directly or via the repo listing. This editorial was produced prior to the announcement of iOS 13 and with it, native support for the DualShock 4 and Xbox One S Wireless Controller.

For wireless MFi controllers, put the controller into pairing mode, then connect it via Bluetooth. How exactly you put the controller into pairing mode will depend on the specific controller you have. Consult the manual or Google.

If you are running iOS 12 or your controller is not supported by iOS 13 (for example, a Nintendo Switch Pro Controller) then you will need to install the nControl tweak. Buy it from Packix here: Please note that we are not able to help with nControl or Packix issues. If you have any problems, contact nitoTV or Packix support.

Selecting your controller is very straightforward. You have the option to load a default configuration profile that should work on most controllers. If you are having problems or you dislike the button mappings, you can always change it.

Changing the bindings of your controller is also very simple. To change a binding for a button or axis, tap what you want to be changed and then press the desired button or move the desired stick in a direction.

Back on DolphiniOS, switch the DSU Client to enabled. Change the device for the Wiimote or GameCube Controller to the DUALSHOCK 4 and rebind all of your buttons and sticks. (Motion sensors are automatically bound once you select a DSU Client device.) You should now be able to use features like the built-in gyroscope on your DUALSHOCK 4.

Using Rednet PCieR Focusrite with Lynx Aurora (n) 32channel. Something changed with the Nuendo 12 update. Previously Dante was much faster than the generic ASIO driver. But now the generic driver is about the same CPU usage as before but the Dante driver with the PCIeR card is slower than the generic driver in terms of the usage meters and dropouts. Even the VIA version is about the same efficiency as the PCIeR version.

Since posting I have done a lot of trial and error experiments. With N12 on a new empty project with an empty audio track and an empty instrument track, the peak jumps up and down with 25% being the center point. Now with N11 doing the same experiment it runs about 1/2 of that reading.

On both N12 and N11 adding just one effect plugin in the audio track doubles the peak reading.

N12 will not tolerate a full project with a dozen tracks and a few plugins. Peak keeps going to redline and stopping audio. N11 will run that same project with snaps and crackles and occasional audio dropout but randomly will stop audio for a few seconds.

Now with the generic Asio driver (non Dante) there are no peaks or dropouts. I can run larger projects within limits as I would expect to have with the generic Asio driver.

I have the most recent Dante driver for the Aurora (n) Lynx. Also the most recent Dante Control app

The buffer size make no difference for Dante settings. I have ran it up to max .5msec without any change to dropouts. (normally it is set to minimum without problems- .15 msec)

I have sent a trouble ticket to Lynx support to see if they can help. I was hoping someone would be using the Lynx Aurora (n) and could share results.

This is a PCAudioLabs custom computer with i9 processor and tweaks performed by them along with the Windows10 Pro installed and Nuendo also installed by them. No problems with N10 and before just the last 2 versions have been progressively worse. Now unusable.

There are quite a few such programmes. Some are free, such as Razer Cortex: Game Booster or Wise Game Booster. Others cost money: Ashampoo WinOptimizer or GameBoost.

Some are better than others. And some even come with bloatware, which ironically slows down your computer even more.

So if you have found a piece of software that you are sure will help with the problem you are describing, you should share your knowledge. (If you have a guilty conscience, you can also share your advertising commission with us. )

Finally I now have audio in Nuendo even with an incorrect project sample rate. This was not possib;le before. And now when I do audio warping I no longer get the weirdness I had with the Focusrite card. I am wondering if there was a driver that I was missing with the Audinate card??

nControl is a jailbreak app allowing you to play games on iOS using PS4 Dualshock/Xbox/Switch controllers. The tweak supports iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch running iOS 7.0 - iOS 13.6. Jailbreak required. nControl is available for $9.99 from Packix repository. This tweak is dedicated to serious mobile gamers.

nControl allows you to use Sony Dual Shock 4 / Slim, XBox One, Evo VR Pro / Mini controllers, and Nintendo Switch Joy-Con controllers in any application that offers support for MFI controllers (including emulators like Provenance). Connect the controller to the device and start playing games. Now also with iOS 13 support.

You can always buy dedicated for iPhone MFI controllers, but when you have already at home a supported console controller why not use it. nControl will easily allow you to connect your hardware to your iPhone and other supported Apple devices. Will you be installing nControl? Leave a comment in the section below.

Almost all gamers agree that console-based gaming is significantly more immersive than mobile gaming on an iPhone or iPad. The primary factor is a gaming controller that feels good in your hand. Now with nControl you can play any game on your iOS device using a professional controller. Using a pad gives you a much better game experience than taping on a flat-screen.

Now I do not understand the theory behind what I have done, but it seems to be working well now, stable house temps, and sensible boiler duty cycles.

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Key observation here, is that the blue line (midpoint temp) is tracking closely , the target temp (horizontal pink line) Note: I just turned it up moments ago to test something else , hence the sharp rise on the rightmost side. You can see how I started to tweak all this around 07:30ish upto now, 18:30.

I think I was just completely doing all the wrong I could possibly do, and trying to fork and knife my old setup, into your explanation and model , then trying to defend my completely inappropriate approach. Not a good strategy

In order for your heating to work you actually need 3 values, current temperature, target temperature and valve control.

You only have 2 values in your set up, current temperature and then target temperature that was directly linked to the valve control.

In order to get the 3 values you need to use HA to split up the linked values.

You do that by having HA control and store the target temperature and the use the target temperature on the valve as a valve control by giving it target values that fits the valve setting you actually wants.

You may lose the ability to adjust the temperature directly on the thermostat, since its not actually the real target temperature that is on the there, but the target temperature that give the right valve setting.

To remedy this loss of control you can buy cheap wall thermostats that can be linked to HA, which then can be used to control the valve thermostats. The benefit of this is that these wall thermostats usually comes with a thermometer too and these measure the room temperature better than the one on the radiator, which is highly influenced on the current valve setting.

I have the Thrustmaster TX and have not had any issues at all with oversteer or issues with the TX at all. For Forza 5 and 6 it is always best to set the base of your wheel to max sensitivity and DOR 900 and make all of your adjustments to DOR and force feedback in your advanced controller/wheel options settings in game.

Quite funny enough I actually had a rather big improvement today as well by turning simulation assist of and drop back to normal steering. And suddenly your zero outside steering deadzone started to feel better as well. With assisted steering the force feedback was acting really weird and unpredictable. It feels to me the amount of force feedback you set under advanced settings also influences the weird behaviour of the TX in general.

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