Magic Bullet 7 Piece Set

[Nu Alessio]

Meetthe original magic bullet that started it all with everything you need to get started making home cooked nutrition a breeze. Enjoy hundreds of fresh, healthy meals, snacks, smoothies and desserts, all prepared in 10 seconds or less!

You know and love the nutribullet and how easy it makes drinking nutrition. Now with this magic bullet 4 piece Kit you can get started preparing nutritious, delicious meals and snacks easily, with a Flip-Top lid for sippable nutrition on the go, too!

We recommend washing the blade by hand with warm soapy water immediately after use. You can use a nylon brush to reach hard to reach areas. The blade, jug and motor base are not dishwasher safe. The cups are dishwasher safe. When cleaning the motor base, unplug from the socket and wipe clean with a warm soapy cloth.

We recommend using frozen fruits such as berries, bananas or mango to make the smoothies cold. If you do use ice, do not exceed 25% of your total ingredients.

We suggest smaller cubes or crushed such as those from the refrigerator ice maker so that it disperses thoroughly in the smoothie. Also chilled liquid such as spring water, herbal or ginger teas, almond milk can help to make the smoothie cold without over watering.

If you load your bullets as I often do with grease grooves exposed, you need to remember that if you load that cartridge into a hot barrel and leave it sit for very long that the lube will begin to melt and run down to the bottom side of the bullet and puddle up in the bottom of the barrel in the rifling grooves. When the cartridge is fired that bullet will once again bump up, but not bump up properly on the lower side where the puddle of lube is and will be out of balance and will shoot out of your group.

On the other hand, every once in a while I have seen rifles that had the chambers off center by a few thousandths of an inch and while that seems bad, it really affects the accuracy of the bullet very little even though it will affect the balance. The trick is that it is affecting the balance in exactly the same way each shot, so the bullet will fly off in the same direction each time. It is still not a desirable situation, but may well not be worth the effort to repair for the accuracy improvement you may not receive.

Here is a good place to discuss the case separations I mentioned that can happen with black powder cartridge loads once in a while. With the bullet pressing out onto the inner surface of the case mouth with several thousand pounds per square inch pressure, it tends to grab the case and tries to pull it along with the bullet.

If you have a problem with cases stretching forwards or breaking, the answer is simple. You either decrease the tension inside or increase it outside. To increase it outside, you make sure the chamber and outside of the case are dry and clean with no oil, lube, or water from a blow tube that can prevent the case from getting hold of the chamber. To decrease it inside, you make sure the case mouths are not rough inside, the bullet has some lube on it with no dry lead showing that can stick to the case and in some cases a little change like using a different wad material or powder granulation can help.

If the bore were perfectly smooth, clean, consistent, and lubricated from here to the muzzle, the story would be about over; but therein lie the problems. Surface finish of the bore, consistency of the bore diameter, and rifling dimensions all make a difference; as does lubrication and fouling management. Each one deserves a little discussion.

The answer is simple. The secret to a great barrel is consistency; consistency of diameter, groove depth, groove width, consistency of twist rate, and even the surface finish. The absolute best barrels I have used have all been lapped for consistency and smoothness.

The actual land and groove design matters little. Some barrels have square cut grooves, while others have sloped or rounded lands to help prevent fouling build up. Some have a straight twist while others have a gain twist, or increasing twist to the rifling. About everything you can imagine has been thoroughly tested in the last hundred and fifty years or so. Everything from deep sharp rifling, to shallow rounded ones, and even oval bores were developed and proved to work just fine as long as they are well made and consistent.

Like I said before, what does matter when it comes to barrel quality is that no matter what size or shape it is, it needs to be that size and shape all the way through the barrel. Generally speaking, the more precisely it is the same, the better it will shoot. Tight spots, loose spots, and rough spots can and will cause problems.

At some point though, the bullet will no longer obturate quickly or not at all and the bullet will be minutely loose in the bore. In my experience, bad tight spots will cause a barrel to shoot badly from the beginning, while lesser tight spots will often times allow fouling to being building up on the bore just forward of the tight spot. This holds true with black powder, small bore and to some extent high power rifles as well. Tight spots are why some barrel manufacturers air gauge their barrels to sort out the good ones from the not so good ones. Other manufacturers only sell the best barrels and find that they do not need to air gauge that bore.

I need to mention that jacketed bullets and smokeless powder will often times work well in a barrel that will not shoot well with black powder and lead bullets at all. That said, if you purchase a rifle that was manufactured with factory loaded ammo in mind and you decide to shoot black powder and lead bullets in it, do not be surprised if it does not work well. Black powder and lead bullets just require a higher quality barrel to shoot better than your average hunting rifle.

A perfect example of this would be if the person that chambered the barrel used a solid pilot reamer and did not keep it clean, but pulled it out to clear the chips, and then pushed it back into the barrel and chips got over the cutting edges. This can cause a series of scratches across the top of the lands just forward of the chamber for the first inch or more. These scratches are almost always deep enough to cause fouling and leading problems because they simply work like a file on the bullet as it passes and create roughness where fouling can build up quickly. Very minor surface irregularities are often not a problem because the bullet lubricant simply lays down a protective layer that is thicker than the irregularities are deep.

Now that I am on the subject of bullet lubricant, I might as well elaborate on that a bit. Bullet lube simply has one heck of a job to do. It must have the ability to be applied to the surface of the bore at the speed of a bullet under great pressures without fail, and lay down a layer of lubricant that is thick enough to allow the bullet to slide across the surface of the bore without allowing the bullet to touch the steel. When the surface irregularities are deeper than this layer of lube is thick, you will run into problems.

A good lube will apply a thin layer of lube evenly to protect the barrel not only from the touch of the lead bullet but also to protect the bore from the flame and heat of the burning powder that is coming down the barrel behind the bullet. The lube I have been using for years was tested many years ago by firing, then catching and inspecting bullets; starting with a clean lightly oiled bore and continuing on with the use of a blow tube between shots.

Lubrication is simple really. If bare lead touches bare steel, it will begin the leading processing of the barrel. If you take a clean cast bullet and rub it on a clean dry surface like it was a piece of chalk, you will get the idea of how easy it is for lead to be applied to the surface of the bore. At higher speeds and pressures, it is almost like applying solder to the barrel.

If the lubricant layer left behind the bullet cannot stand the flame and heat of the burning powder then the burning powder residue will be applied to bare steel and can stick there and begin the process of fouling a barrel. On the other hand, if the fouling lies on top of a layer of lubricant, then it is easily swept away by the next bullet as it passes.

I mentioned in a previous article about how little lead in the bore it takes to move a shot quite a distance on the target because of how it affects the balance of the bullet. In reality, we seldom see a shot go that far off with the first sign of leading because a rifle that leads tends to lead in more than one place at a time and the leaded spots tend to counter one another to a certain degree, but leading still affects accuracy from the very beginning. Fouling will also affect accuracy from the very first speck for the same reasons, but we generally do not notice the accuracy either one steals from us until it causes accuracy problems large enough to be outside our comfort range.

There have been two tests done that I know of along that line. The first was done over a hundred years ago and the second more recently was done for a bench rest magazine. Both tests experimented with various muzzle designs and found no difference between them as far as accuracy was concerned. Both tests went on to try a barrel that was just hacked on the end. The one from a hundred years ago used a muzzle cut with a coarse rasp at a five degree angle across the face of the muzzle with burrs left in the bore; the later one used a milling machine at a three degree angle across the end of the barrel.

Amazingly enough, the best groups were fired in both cases with the muzzle cut at an angle and left rough. So much for fretting about muzzle design, I guess. In both cases the groups moved on the target in direct relationship to the angle of the cut on the barrel, etc., but they shot fine.

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