Hooked Pdf

[Pricilla Igoe]

Thedilemma is real. You just caught an undersized fish and the hook is embedded deeply down its throat. You know that if you grab the hook with pliers and pull that hook out this fish will probably die. But worse in most locations if you are caught releasing a belly up fish you could be fined for "wanton" waste of wildlife. But if you keep an undersized fish, well that's another problem because you could also receive a big fine if you are stopped by a game warden. You are between a rock and a hard place!

Did you also know that cutting the line and leaving the hook in the gullet is a terrible idea. In the past we were told that the hooks rusted out in a few days and the fish would survive. Nothing could be further from the truth! Studies at the University of Maryland that were done in the 70's showed that nearly all gut hooked fish that were released using non-plated rusting high carbon steel hooks died. Not from location of the hook but from the toxins released during the slow rusting process. Strangely enough when they did this same experiment leaving stainless steel hooks in the gullet those fish had a 99% survival rate. Cutting off and leaving the hooks is no longer an option if you want your released fish to survive.

Before I show you a solution to this gut hooked problem I wanted to tell you a strange but true story. One morning I was fishing a Canadian Shield lake for smallmouth bass using a 5 inch plastic worm rigged weedless with a 3/0 red worm hook which I had bent the barb over to the side in an experiment testing hook up ratios. I had a really hard strike off the side of a large boulder which resulted in a short fight and a disappointing broken line. The next morning I was casting to that exact same spot with the exact same weedless rigged worm and hook rig and bam, I caught a big fat four pound smallmouth. Hard to believe as it was that hungry smallmouth still had my hook from the previous day deeply lodged down his gullet with about six inches of the broken line attached! I weaved the line out the gill to maneuver the hook and was able to release that smallmouth none the worse for his experience.

Fortunately there is an answer to the gut hook dilemma. Once you have learned this 99% effective method for removing the hook from a gut hooked fish you should teach it to your friends. It's simple to learn and you will use it a lot once you see how effective it is at saving the life of the fish.

2. Cut the line leaving about 10 inches of line still attached to the hook. Feed the 10 inch length of line through the gills so that it is hanging out and then pull the line down the side of the fish to reposition the hook with the bend facing out instead of the eye.

An example of getting unhooked with the same situation and the same internal experience could look like this. You still have the same story show up in your head. Maybe your mind is even imaging all the worst-case scenarios happening and how horribly your boss will react, which is causing you to feel anxious.

All right, guys, if you like this post, check out my blog for more posts on mental health and different tips that could help. I encourage you to continue nurturing your mind, body, and soul, whatever that looks like for you. Have a good one!

Where are you on that spectrum of being hooked or unhooked? You may be in difference places on that spectrum in your work, your personal life, your creative life. Take stock: where are you now? What would be possible if you were more unhooked?

After having ridden a few hundred kilometers on my MTB, I realized that I have mounted tires marked as Mount only on hooked rims... and the rims are hookless. Common sense tells me that the tires may blow off, or at least the vendor does not guarantee otherwise.

For decades, before the rise of hookless tubeless-compatible (often carbon) rims, many tire sidewalls of all sizes and genres said "hooked rim only" or some variation thereof, meaning don't put them on the other kind of hookless rim. This includes many tires with beads of the traditional clincher, non-tubeless style, and also some tubeless tires, which may or may not have had that warning built into the mold before hookless tubeless became popular.

The other kind in question is usually associated with older or cheaper rims, plus some traditional designs that are still common in some parts of the world. This is mostly a cost-saving feature for low-performance, low-pressure applications. (There is all sorts of other history here but it's a digression).

If it's a contemporary tubeless-compatible MTB tire and it says hooked only, that is an explicit recommendation against what you're doing, i.e. it wasn't designed and tested for hookless, or it was tested and failed. Or, it could be low-hanging-fruit avoidance of liability exposure on the manufacturer's part. You could consider second-guessing the manufacturer here, possibly making a judgement based on how strong the bead lock is when you deflate it and try to remove it by hand. Personally I would heed the warning in this case and just not do it.

There is a permutation to the above where the tire is tubeless-compatible, possibly an older one, but is labeled in a way that's oblivious to hookless tubeless rims and could be fine on them, i.e. it predates them, and the intention was only to keep it off of old cruiser rims etc. Barring further clarification from the manufacturer I would take the cautious approach there and still not do it, because you can't reliably discern anything further with what you have.

If it's any kind of non-tubeless-compatible tire, it doesn't belong on a hookless tubeless-compatible rim in any circumstance. Your teeth are worth more than that. Tubeless hookless rims rely on the tubeless bead lock for security. You might find the bead lock is providing some retention anyway, but I wouldn't risk it.

MTBs are a much lower pressure application, and MTBs and cyclocross used to run unofficial tubeless setups with non-tubeless tires and not-necessarily-tubeless rims. You could take a chance on this. I would not.

I have a tire for hooked rims that I run tubeless on a hooked rim, but the tire bead is damaged (long story how). Half of the rubber that normally sticks out to the side and engages the hooked part of the rim is missing on one side in a section about 7.5 spokes long (700c diameter). Despite having good tread and all punctures patched from the inside, the tire was unusable. It can't hold even 50 psi without blowing off the rim, and it's rated for a max of 90 psi!

I was about to throw it away when I realized that MTB ghetto tubeless is hookless, so there should be a way to set up my gravel tire tubeless without functional bead hooks all the way around. I'm not a mountain biker and I've never played with ghetto tubeless, but from what I remembered reading ghetto tubeless basically involves adding 2-3 layers of gorilla tape (0.432 mm thick per layer) to increase the diameter of the rim's beads. If you do the math you'll see that tiny increase in diameter corresponds to a substantial increase in circumference.

Once the rim's beads are thickened up enough it will be impossible to install the tire without an air compressor and maybe wetting the bead too. But once it's on there, having the bead that tight means it's not coming off. I moved the tire to the back, installed it with extra tape and it's holding 60 psi no problem. I ride with 60 psi or less so problem solved.

You can also add a tubeless foam insert. That can make seating the bead far easier by decreasing the volume of air. You might not need a compressor anymore. It also seems to prevent the tire from unseating at any PSI. I think the Vittoria Air-Liners are a good example. They have versions for gravel, MTB, CX, etc.

I conducted tests on three different types of foam lately (not bike products, this is DIY crap), and not once in my testing have I seen a tire with foam in it unseat, even while riding (carefully) on it at 0 psi. And I don't just mean the tire stayed on the wheel, the beads of the tire actually stayed on the beads of the rim, regardless of which direction the tire's sidewalls were pointing at the end of the test! I rode 1/4 mile with 0 psi on all three and took the winner on a destructive 2 mile run-flat test.

That was a normal tubeless setup using the tire with the damaged bead and without any extra tape. I do suspect that I could pull a tire off the rim if I cornered really hard at 0 psi, but I haven't actually tried. YMMV with all of this.

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