SBMS0 legacy view not loading data.

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Jhon

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Apr 10, 2021, 2:26:15 PMApr 10
to electrodacus
Today I lost the data on the legacy view on the SBMS0, rebooting it, fixed the issue so there is no urgency.  Any suggestion on what I can do to prevent that happening again?

Dacian Todea

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Apr 10, 2021, 3:44:00 PMApr 10
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Not sure the reason you had no connection with WiFi. Also an WiFi  OFF (0) then ON (1) from the SBS menu will reboot the ESP32 there was no need to power cycle the SBMS0 if that is what you did.

Jhon

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Apr 10, 2021, 8:08:48 PMApr 10
to electrodacus
Sorry, I should have provided more information.

I could connect to the SBMS0 via wifi as usual (in my setup I have the SBMS0 connected via my router and the router assigns it a static IP#.)
The home tab was updating as normal, I could also open the settings and the about tabs.
When I tried to look at the legacy view tab, the page was flickering as if it was updating, but showing half or one quarter of the static page, but no data.
I tried with both my laptop and phone, cleared the browser cache on both devices.

I tried downloading the html file you suggested in another thread, changing the IP# to the one I had assigned to the SBMS, that did not work either for me and still does not work, but I am not concerned about that.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 11, 2021, 3:45:30 AMApr 11
to electrodacus
Was that Legacy page still not working correctly after a WiFi reset (set to 0 press OK then set back to 1 and press OK).

Jhon

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Apr 11, 2021, 8:46:42 AMApr 11
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I have only experienced that issue once Dacian and it cleared after a reboot.  Hopefully it won't happen again, but when it does, I will try resetting wifi,  (Does resetting wifi restart the web server as well?) 

I have experienced something similar, those times, I left the "Legacy SBMS" open in my browser tab and walked away for a few hours, but clearing cache (by closing browser and starting a new session) always solved the issue and I never gave it much thought.

Btw, at work (unix sysadmin) when testing out software, I would manage to break things that none of my colleagues would break, you could say I am an unconventional user.  I know you are under a lot of stress and if no one else is experiencing it, give priority to things that are less obscure (It only happened once and it isn't a big issue for me right now.)  Raising it is meant as feedback, not a complaint, I think your products are awesome.

Ninlee Joseph

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Apr 11, 2021, 10:57:43 AMApr 11
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Sorry to hijack this post but i cant seem to find a way to create  a new post and this seems to be the closed to what i am experiencing.
 
I would like to know how to fix this... this was once working. I changed Mqtt servers and when i tired going back into the settings to input the new server settings this is what i saw. I tired setup back up the old MQTT server to see if that solves the problem but still didn't work. Is there any way to reset this?
Screenshot_20210411-104412_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20210411-104419_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20210411-104406_Chrome.jpg

Jhon

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Apr 11, 2021, 12:23:02 PMApr 11
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No problem with me, but if you want to start a new topic, you can start a new conversation (in my laptop browser it is on the top left)  And I think you might want to try what Dacian suggested, try WiFi reset (set to 0 press OK then set back to 1 and press OK) on the SBMS0 screen itself.  And then report back.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 11, 2021, 1:04:02 PMApr 11
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Ninlee,   Yes try a reset of the ESP32.
John,  I'm not involved in the development on the ESP32 as that is not open source and it is very limited on what you can do so I do not like that. In the past I used the oficial AT firmware from Expresif and now Robert offered to do a custom firmware the one used on the new SBMS0 and he works to improve this and add futures.   The SBMS0 firmware works inside the STM32F373 microcontroller so completely separate from the ESP32 that is only in charge with the WiFi connection.
Also as I mentioned I tested for a week or two and during that time everything worked but had not played with the MQTT as I did not had the time to setup a MQTT server and I do not use the WiFi in my installation. (I'm always no more than 2m from my SBMS so all I need is to rotate may head to see the SBMS screen).

Jhon

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Apr 12, 2021, 6:08:37 AMApr 12
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It is ok Dacian, mine is sitting in the far corner of my garage, will go into my campervan next year (or the year after).  It is all still very new to me and I am babysitting my battery bank, I have one cell that holds only 75% of capacity after top balancing 3 times.  Supplier is sending a replacement and I am buying another 8 cells in a 2p8s configuration.

This winter I might play with MQTT, would like to be able to make intelligent decisions on when to charge the battery overnight using low rate grid power if there is little sun in the forecast for the next day.  (If you or any one else knows of free solar forecast for specific locations in Canada other than the regular envirionment Canada forecast, I would love to hear) I also pulled some data over the wifi, will just have to parse it to take state of charge by the looks of it.  Also thinking about playing with a raspberry pi next winter, I didn't enjoy electronics at all in school, but I might be able to cope with things like relays and simple inputs like push buttons and water levels.  Wife and son are programmers, work full time and will be able to answer most of my questions.  I have not looked into what I am going to do exactly, but I can see a whole lot of fun possibilities.

For me the SBMS0 is not just a tool, it is something to play and have fun with and again, thanks for making it.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 12, 2021, 1:53:59 PMApr 12
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What do you mean by top balancing 3 times ? Have you done a manual balancing by charging all cells to 3.6V ?
Weather forecast is so bad (at least for my location) that is worse than useless. Even with just random guess it will work better :)

Bernd

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Apr 13, 2021, 2:50:29 AMApr 13
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regarding weather forecast: I´m using (already for nearly 4 months now) iobroker with http://www.daswetter.com/ plus weather underground https://www.wunderground.com/ and it is fine for me.
I combine both sets of data into my personal forecast.
I´m using forecast for expected snow and clouds. Depending on the results, I set the "comfort level" of my house and will (future) not turn on e.g. garden lights during the night.
The data includes sun hours during daylight, clouds, snow for different periods up to 8 days with different details level (up to hourly)

Any other running systems that seems to work

Dacian Todea

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Apr 13, 2021, 1:29:45 PMApr 13
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I live off grid quite far from any large city so that may be one of the reason forecast is much worse.
There are many extreme when they mention one hour of sun and is sunny all day sort of the opposite of their forecast. Also many time I noticed forecast was correct when done 3 to 5 days in advance and then they change the forecast a day before and it was wrong.
Like for example about a week ago they showed 15cm of snow for this Sunday and sunny on Monday but as the weekend got closer they removed the 15cm of snow completely and then as it got even closer they showed 4 to 5 days of completely cloudy with snow each day about 5cm each day and that seems to be the case now with the winter storm yesterday 60km/h gusts and probably around 5cm of snow (hard to say as wind moves that snow) and even while it was snowing all day panels remained clean and I produced a bit over 30kWh from my 8.5kW PV array. Reason for that is that ground is white and it was not that dark during the day even if it was snowing and now the day is fairly long.
The 30kWh where useful as it maintained the house fairly warm since outside is not that cold just around -5C
Today seems similar to yesterday maybe a bit worse as there is more snow and looks like a bit stronger wind but even if it is before noon I got already around 8kWh (total battery charging plus heating). So it is possible it will be close to yesterday.
And just checking it is no longer saying snow for next two days as it was saying on Sunday when I last checked.

Oberon Robinson

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Apr 13, 2021, 1:53:47 PMApr 13
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I use the Meteogram app and widget - it's insanely customizable and almost freakishly accurate, using the Norwegian Meteorological Institute model by default as its data source.

Jhon

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Apr 14, 2021, 11:36:03 AMApr 14
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"What do you mean by top balancing 3 times ? Have you done a manual balancing by charging all cells to 3.6V ?"
 Yes, reassemble and top balance to 3.65V and then reassemble to 24V.  Vendor agreed the cell needs replacing and is sending a replacement.

"Weather forecast is so bad (at least for my location) that is worse than useless. Even with just random guess it will work better :)"
Over here it works reasonable well if I check the evening before.  Long range, especially this time of year is not very good, I tend to look at the radar maps.  With a big enough system and/or low enough load, I wouldn't have to worry about any of that.

Jhon

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Apr 14, 2021, 12:17:04 PMApr 14
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Thanks Dacian for the update to your system and performance.  I am averaging about 4kWh a day from my 1,200 W panels since I installed them.  Would love to see how you cope in winter there, I can't imagine trying to heat with solar where you are unless you have some serious heat storage.

Thanks Oberon, it seems to work for my location as well.  I will bookmark that and see if I can filter out the expected solar power for the day.

I could dump the excess power in the hot water cylinder, which makes the most sense to me and I have one other option.  wife and son have been pestering me for a hot pool for years, I like the hot pool, I really dislike the bubbles, I believe they are overpriced and I REALLY don't like the looks of them.  So I will see if I can power that with any excess solar on sunny days.  Will have 3.6kW in solar panels and 544Ah 24V battery.  So just don't use the hot pool on a cloudy day and charge the batteries overnight when rates are lower.  (But if it was up to me, I would use wood fired rocket stove to heat a self made hot pool)

Too many choices, which actually makes the whole thing more fun.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 14, 2021, 2:16:44 PMApr 14
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John,

I do heat the house here in winter but the house is super insulated and I have decent amount of thermal mas 96kWh at the moment but will need to increase that to deal better with November and December.
Here is a photo from yesterday. It is still winter but I hope this is last snow.  It was only -5C so very easy to heat the house +23C inside even if it was cloudy all day I still produced around 25kWh and about 30kWh the day before as the snow helps reflect more light. In a sunny day I can get about 50kWh from the 8.5kWh PV array in spring time less in summer and middle of winter as then the day is shorter.  House needs about 1000kWh/month in coldest month (January)
P1310531.JPG

Jhon

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Apr 17, 2021, 6:33:37 AMApr 17
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I think insulation would be the first step regardless of where we live.  We had flurries yesterday that didn't even stay on the ground for a minute which means my fishing will have to wait as I like it warm.   Been looking at building my own home for years, from advanced framing to insulation, to ground heating/cooling.  (With the high water table, cooling would be really simple)  My only concern with insulation is moisture and how to prevent mold growth.  My water table is high, about 30cm below the grass.  Your in floor heating makes me think that a concrete wall with a heating element inside would be a possibility.  It would only have to be just above inside temperature in winter.

What you have done is pretty impressive.  In my days as an electrician in NZ they still had "night storage heaters" who used a similar concept.  The relay would make a loud CLANK sound when it came on whenever the plants had too much spare electricity.   The owner could open them up or close them to control the temperature somewhat.  I was only doing commercial buildings, office and factories and then mostly mechanical, so I never worked with one.  How do you control the temperature, or are you ok with letting it fluctuate depending on how much solar you have?  And what did you use for insulation?

Solar+ storage is getting to the point where it makes financial sense for people to go off grid, house price, even here 2 hours from Toronto have increased in price so much that a 30k system is only a fraction of the cost of a home.  Add starlink to the mix and it makes sense for people to move to cheaper locations.   A self driving electric car would allow you to sleep on the way to the office if you have to attend in person once a week or less and can be charged at home.

It is hard to predict the future, especially when all of it depends so much on personal preference. My new neighbours sold their house in Toronto, she works as a teacher and he works from home as an engineer they have young kids who they spend a lot of time with, it is perfect for them.   My wife is a city girl who works from home and she likes a big house, which we could only afford here.  While I prefer to be even further away from the city, in a small house (but in a nicer climate, a (push)bike ride away from the ocean)  New solar equipment is finally coming down in price, with all in one systems going to give some serious competition to the DSSR20.  (Not because they are better, but because they are cheap and convenient) Combined with rack mounted batteries those are going to give the powerwalls a run for their money.

I love what you have created, the fact that it does not waste energy as heat, which has to waste even more energy by trying to get rid of the excess heat and the external IO made it the perfect choice for me, the diversion, while not an option for me, is brilliant.  And like all nearly all brilliant solutions, logical in hindsight.  I am glad you chose to share it freely.

Below a picture of my 4 panels installed on the shed taken last month. I get sun on them from about 11:30 as there are some large trees to the Southeast, yesterday I got about 2 kWh from them but it was a dark overcast day.  I need to paint the ends of the horizontal 2*4's and cable tie the wires   (Still testing output per panel as the trees behind partially overhang the shed.)

Next 8 panels will go where the green tarp is, wife wants more shade there, but while I will be building it alone, this time I will get some one to help me lift them up onto the wooden structure.   Angle will be far from optimal, even worse than the shed, but I do have to compromise with her and the trees that throw shade on the shed, won't be in the way.  I told her don't expect much production over winter, but she is ok with that.

processed.jpeg

Dacian Todea

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Apr 17, 2021, 1:39:40 PMApr 17
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The temperature will not fluctuate much in average no more than 2 or 3C over a 24h period because the thermal storage capacity is fairly large. That 96kW is for a concrete max delta temperature of 12C that will be 18C to max 30C but this are extremes and I will not be there most of the times.  That is concrete floor temperature but ambient air will be lower in the 17C to 26C range at extremes
I recently got a device to measure radon but that also measures and logs the temperature and some other stuff. I got this relatively recent not that much more than one month so I took a few screenshots showing the temperature fluctuation
You can see average temperature is 22C and fluctuation over last month, last weeks and last 48h so you can have a good idea on the fluctuation. On the week graphs you can see best how it peaks every day to about 25C as it is heated during the day and then drops during the night.
Screenshot_20210417-110858.png Screenshot_20210417-110836.png Screenshot_20210417-110822.png

For anyone that is curious here is the graph for radon with an average over past 30 days of 27Bq/m3 well below standards but higher than I expected. The house is fully insulated from ground with a plastic radon barrier so the only way radon gas enters the house is trough windows and doors so there is no way for me to reduce this levels. I seen peaks as high as 70 about two weeks ago (average was 57 in that graph but it peaked around 70). Curious what levels I will have in summer when ground is dry not wet or frozen.  I was not aware that outside air contains that much radon in this area and not sure if there is anything I can do about that. 

Screenshot_20210417-111029.png

I also way for self driving car services to be available but it may take some time especially here. A house with 4x the size of mine will only require about 2.5x the energy so energy needs do not scale in a linear way and a larger house can be more efficient when energy per livable space is considered.
The problem with the all in one systems if you refer to inverter + solar charger they are not usable with Lithium batteries as they do not have separate remote for charging and inverting. 
Regarding the way my foundation is made see the old video I made of how house was build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3g4gmRvgko&t=220s

Plamen

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Apr 17, 2021, 5:25:35 PMApr 17
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Hi Dacian,
 What's the radon device model you've got. It's been some time since i'm looking for one and i can't choose.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 17, 2021, 5:30:14 PMApr 17
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I use the airthings wave plus as on top of Radon also has CO2, TVOC, temperature, humidity and pressure.
It is a bit annoying on the initial setup as it needs to be updated but after that I use it with a mobile phone that has no internet connection so is just a monitoring screen and I can keep my data private.


Thomas Varney

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Apr 17, 2021, 9:04:39 PMApr 17
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Hi,
I've mitigated radon for the last twelve years. I recommend the Wave to all my customers. Radon is a noble gas and can find its way up through concrete and into a house because of the slight pressure difference caused by the stack effect. Your level is very near the ambient outside level for your area. To lower it further a heat recovery ventilator can dilute the radon but not below outside levels. Maybe put the Wave outside to check?  I've used an HRV on several jobs and it can be used with the Wave to adjust the radon level to an acceptable level considering heat loss.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 17, 2021, 9:36:11 PMApr 17
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Thomas,

Yes my level is the same as outside level as when ground is frozen or there is snow level drops to below 10Bq/m3 so within the measurement error.
I'm curious if average will increase in summer when ground is dry to an average of 60 or 70Bq/m3 as that seems a bit high as an average. I will maybe move the wave outside but currently is new I want to see how levels indoors change in the next months as is just a bit over one month since it was installed.
I have a radon barrier under the concrete slab (6mill plastic) that is continuous with only one penetration that was well taped. Also that penetration is in bathroom and that has negative pressure ventilation to outside so air from bathroom can not get in to other parts of the house where the wave plus is installed.
Ventilation will only help those that have levels higher than outside but that can not be the case in my house. I was surprised that levels outside can be that high as I did not looked that much into this topic before. It also seems that levels here in the middle of the continent are much higher in average (guess there is much more uranium in soil).

Chris Card

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Apr 18, 2021, 1:10:00 AMApr 18
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The wave device looks very interesting, as when I previously looked into the radon issue, the only option seemed to be to have a “dumb” measurement device which had to be left for several months in one position, then returned by post for analysis.  How long does it take the wave device to provide an accurate radon reading? Can it be done within days or for it to be useful, must a long term measurement be carried out over weeks/months?

Mind you, I am a bit scared to test in case I discover we have high radon and have been breathing it for years!

Dacian Todea

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Apr 18, 2021, 1:50:47 AMApr 18
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Chris,  There is a 7 day calibration period but you can still see the data.  There is quite a bit of fluctuation so for meaningful results you still need to wait for a few months to get an idea of what the average radon level is. In my case up to now it fluctuated for 8Bq/m3 up to 75Bq/m3 so there is quite a variation depending in my case mostly on soil condition and maybe wind direction as it is mostly related to outside radon level.
So because of seasonal fluctuation you will still need to wait for months to get a good idea of what sort of levels you have but you can see the results every hour.
The good thing about wave plus is that it also offers some other useful data like CO2 and TVOC so you know if there is enough ventilation thus is not just the Radon level as that after a few months will become boring to check.  I did had another device that measured CO2 and TVOC but it is good to have another one that also logs the data. 

Chris Card

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Apr 18, 2021, 2:06:08 AMApr 18
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Thanks Dacian. I suppose it’s a useful thing to have, although I could spend the money on improving my house ventilation instead, since this will be the only practical measure one can take should poor air quality be discovered.  When you release your first solar powered ventilator with thermal recovery and integration with SBMS software for monitoring, please let us know! :) 

Dacian Todea

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Apr 18, 2021, 2:22:29 AMApr 18
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Yes I seen some reviews on this devices that mentioned it will not cost much more than this device to buy the things needed for Radon mitigation. So if you suspect you have high radon levels then better just do the mitigation than buy the device.

Plamen

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Apr 18, 2021, 4:40:27 AMApr 18
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     Thanks Dacian. But now as Cris says i'm getting scared what results might be. Just looked at the Spain radon map and if it's correct there is no place in the green zone!? It starts up from  100 Bq/m3. FDE-02.17 Cartografía del potencial de radón de España_Page_2.jpg 
Is there a way to lower at least the indoor level below the outside? 

Thomas Varney

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Apr 18, 2021, 7:26:38 AMApr 18
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Hi, 
Another way Radon enters a house is from the water. I'm in the US so I'll be using piC/l. When water is aerated some of the entrained radon is released into the air. The rule of thumb we are given is for every 10,000 piC/l in the water 1 piC/l can be added to the air. Aeration happens when you take a shower, use a faucet or a dish washer. Several companies make water mitigation equipment which is all based on blowing air through an unpressurized tub of water and venting that air to the outside. It is then repressurized by an internal  well pump and fed to the house. If your water has high iron, manganese or hardness you will need to install a water softener ahead of the mitigation equipment to prevent fouling of the valves.  With the water being pumped twice into the house and a water softener using 50 gallons of water with each backwash your electrical use will increase significantly. My cost for a BubbleUp from RE Prescott is three thousand dollars and a water softener is fifteen hundred. An installed system would be around seven thousand. This equipment will then need to be maintained. I'm often asked what is the safe level of radon. I use the answer given by RadonAway that no level of radiation is safe. This is a good answer for their sales but leaves it up to the individual to decided how much they are willing to spend.

Jhon

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Apr 18, 2021, 11:23:41 AMApr 18
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Thanks for that video Dacian, looks like some serious insulation and this is the first time I have seen 2*4 used horizontally like a log hut.  I watched a second one regarding your arguments of MPPT controllers and the life of the hardware.  Makes sense now.  You now need to make some more video's, explaining how to install  the parts, maybe 10 - 15 minutes each and how to configure them, maybe using some graphics.  You can do the same with your in floor heating and a water heater etc.  I wonder if it would be possible to power an electric car just using solar without the battery with the car absorbing all it can.

As for the Radon gas, It is all a bit of a worry, I already painted my floors or put a plastic underlay between the sub floor and the finished floor, the only benefit from having this house that has bad insulation is that there is lots of outside air diluting the stuff.

Jhon

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Apr 18, 2021, 1:34:31 PMApr 18
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Was meaning to ask, the DSSR20's are doing 25Amp each at the moment, and have gone up to 28Amp each, is that ok?

Dacian Todea

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Apr 18, 2021, 3:12:01 PMApr 18
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Plamen,
That map you show refers to radon in buildings.  So for example if you are in the yellow area houses (buildings) there 90% of them are in the 100 to 200Bq/m2 but is not necessarily due to large outdoor levels but maybe the way the buildings are constructed and radon can easily accumulate in to homes. It is also possible that some of the radon comes from water source if you have an underground water source.
Seems that EU regulation has limits set higher than in North America with old houses below 400Bq/m3 and new constructions should be below 200Bq/m3.  In Canada the max recommended levels are 200Bq/m3 for both old and new homes and in US that limit is set at 148pCi/l (148Bq/m3)
I was not worried at all but I like understanding all environmental factors and wanted to have a radon sensor. I was surprised as I expected levels close to zero since I had no idea ambient levels are also fairly elevated so I learned something because I got the sensor.
According to WHO there is no safe minimum level so ideally it should be zero but that is not possible in most places around the world.
As Thomas mentioned mitigation can get expensive if water is one of the main source of radon inside the house

Jhon,

Yes I wanted a more solid house that the typical 2*6 used here and cost of horizontal 2*4 is about the same as 2*6 + OSB but OSB and even the more expensive plywood have all sorts of glues that will outgas overtime so I tried to avoid them. The main difference and reason people build frame house is that it can be done much faster (less labor).
EV's theoretically can be charged directly from a PV array but EV's do not allowed that as they were designed for grid charging where the charger converts grid AC to DC either on board or large fast DC chargers and then Car asks for a current limit and charger needs to provide that else the car will think something is wrong with the charger or cable and stop the charging.
We also talking about very high battery voltages 400 to 800V DC and so PV array with open circuits in the range of 600 to 1200V may be needed and that is definitely not something for DIY.
Are you sure you have 25 to 28A from a single DSSR20 ? What sort of panels do you have connected to them ? As standard panels with 6" cells will not be able to get to those current levels.


Jhon

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Apr 18, 2021, 5:03:08 PMApr 18
to electrodacus
I am one of those people who makes so many mistakes, that I can never be sure Dacian, but with 2 * 300W panels per DSSR20 I thought I was reading peaks of nearly 25A each of the DSSR20's on the clamp meter as well as close to 50A on the SBMS0.  It is a cold day (10C) with some small clouds and it was going up and down a lot.   But on the graph it shows only as a peak of nearly 41A for the two DSSR20'sScreenshot_20210418_170014.png

Dacian Todea

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Apr 18, 2021, 5:08:55 PMApr 18
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John,
Yes 41A from 4x 300W panels is what is expected so that seems correct. Maybe in better days you may see 42 to 44A but that is still no problem for DSSR20 as it was designed to deal with that.
50A is possible with edge of cloud effect but it will be just for a few seconds so not a problem.

Jhon

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Apr 18, 2021, 5:43:40 PMApr 18
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Thanks Dacian, again learned something new today.

Soggy Paws

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Apr 22, 2021, 12:32:58 AMApr 22
to electrodacus
Wow, did this thread go off topic!  :D
Funny, that after about a month or more of operation as normal on the Electrodacus SBMS0 with wifi, with really reliable connection with the wifi, I had the same symptoms this morning.
I am using MQTT from the Electrodacus to a Mosquitto Broker on a laptop to a node-red server showing the data.  I also have another browser tab with the Electrodacus legacy page up.  I mainly monitor the node-red page, because it has a nice graph of what's going on.  But right at charge termination, I like to see the Electrodacus legacy page because it updates faster than my node-red display (which by design only updates every 5-10 seconds).  On the legacy page I can see clearly what's going on with balancing.
This morning, the MQTT publish was WORKING, but the "legacy" web page was not.  I could display all the other pages and they appeared OK (I forgot to notice if the home page data was actually updating).  I tried refreshing the page, I cleared browser cache.  I tried a different browser (on same computer).  Before clearing the cache it was showing some data but not updating, and not all the data (maybe only the SOC).  After clearing cache it was all blank except the basic framework of the page.
We used the "turn wifi on and off" mechanism on the Electrodacus to cycle power on the ESP32 and everything worked after that.
I will report again (and be a little more attentive to details) if it happens again.  May open an issue on Robert's Github page.

Jhon

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Apr 22, 2021, 6:15:46 AMApr 22
to electrodacus
Yeah, it did go off topic, sometimes it is ok with me.  Thanks for bringing it back on topic :P

Seems like you experienced exactly the same symptoms as I did, but good to see that resetting wifi at least temporarily resolved the issue, so I will not need to reboot if it happens again.

And now to go off topic again, do you want to share the setup of your Mosquitto Broker, I am thinking of putting something like that on a Raspberry Pi, but I have not looked into it in any detail.

Don Fukushima

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Apr 22, 2021, 1:29:34 PMApr 22
to electrodacus

Confirming that toggle wifi setting in SBMS0 menu fixed the loss of updates to the legacy page. 

Plamen

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Apr 22, 2021, 4:48:05 PMApr 22
to electrodacus
  I have SBMS120 hardware 0.3d and software 3.4k. Every few days i have to toggle on/off/on the wifi because it's not refreshing the data, though pc is connected. 
 Seems that fixes the problem always. It's not a problem at all for me. But maybe (till it's fixed) if it's possible to add in the wifi menu 'auto restart option' (every 12 or 24 hours) will solve it.

Dacian Todea

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Apr 22, 2021, 5:18:55 PMApr 22
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Plamen,

Your SBMS120 has totally different ESP32 firmare than SBMS0. The one you have has the default AT firmware provide by Espressif the manufacturers of those WiFi IC and modules and the SBMS0 uses a firmware put together by Robert.
I was not going to write my own firmware for ESP32 as that is not open source and details about hardware are not available. Not sure if the problem can ever be properly fixed (maybe improved) so if anyone wants a stable connection then use the serial UART (needs optical isolation on SBMS40/SBMS120) or simpler using the USB on the SBMS0 that already has build in isolation and UART to USB conversion.

Plamen

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Apr 22, 2021, 6:02:56 PMApr 22
to electrodacus
   Hi Dacian,
  Could UART be used to view the data on a browser as with wifi?

Dacian Todea

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Apr 22, 2021, 6:32:05 PMApr 22
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You should be able to do that but a bit more complicated. You will need to save the data from UART in to a file on your drive and Edit the html file to link to that file instead of an IP address.


Soggy Paws

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Apr 22, 2021, 10:29:23 PMApr 22
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I have not actually set up a Mosquitto broker on a Raspberry Pi (yet), but I assume it is pretty simple, and would use the same steps as on a Windows computer.  I published what I know in a PDF you can download from here:
I am still playing with my node-red implementation.  There is a fairly recent copy of my Electrodacus flows file at the end of the document, but if you really get into it, I would be happy to provide my latest and greatest.  Mostly I have been working on logging to a CSV file, rather than trying to implement Influx and Grafana on Windows (it's possible but more complicated than on a Pi).  Plus I added some daily highs and lows so I can tell at a glance if everything is about normal.

Jhon

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Apr 23, 2021, 9:01:21 AMApr 23
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Thanks Soggy Paws, I have no time to play with that right now, I have a few projects this summer, including adding more solar and doubling the battery.   I also want to spend a lot of time fishing.  I like to get out early, sit at the spot for half an hour before sunrise, and witness the world come to life.

Plamen

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Apr 23, 2021, 2:13:46 PMApr 23
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Thanks Soggy Paws. I've done my set without any troubles but that part ( have no idea what MQTT for Node-Red is) with the programming is uncharted territory to me. I'll have to read Your guide several times and then will ask for help. I'd really rather not bother Dacian with it so I appreciate it and Thanks again for helping!

Plamen

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Apr 23, 2021, 2:38:44 PMApr 23
to electrodacus
 I can't edit my messages here. Started with Your guide and now i know that Soggy Paws is Your boath so Thanks Sherry!
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