Generic Trigger Wiring Diagram

[Elsa Hoelscher]

SBDhave now produced a modular wiring harness system. This allows the user to immediately select the main engine harness and then choose the type of coil and crank adapters they wish to use from the list of options available.

We have a range of pre-designed adapters, which suit the coils that we sell and know all the characteristics for, so when purchasing a new ECU or upgraded map, these settings can be loaded. They are available for wasted spark coil pack or coil on plug*

Relays

The relays have been designed to use a standard type relay available from any motor factor, in the picture shown you use a special base with locking terminals. These are designed to prevent issues that could occur with vibration when standard type relay bases were used. Each terminal locks itself to the pin of the relay and will only unlock when the base is pulled back, this makes a perfect vibration proof connection.

Note: older designs had individual locking terminals, each wire is colour coded & you will receive a simple diagram with the harness to show the colours.

Coolant Temperature Sensor

We have fitted a mini-timer connector for the coolant sensor, this allows the use of the more commonly available & more widely used Bosch/Lucas type sensor. If your engine is not fitted with this sensor, they are available from us, part number WTS1.

Air Temperature Sensor

The air temperature sensor connector has a two-way mini-timer, which will connect to the Bosch/Lucas type sensor. We normally recommend that this measures ambient air temperature as opposed to being fitted to the air filter back plate which normally suffers from heat soak in most installations particularly rallying, sprinting, etc. where the car is kept stationary with a hot engine for periods of time. Only forced induction system must have the air temp sensor in the intake or engines where they are used for endurance events where the sensors are continually cooled by passing air. NOTE: a sensor once heat soaked takes on average up to 5-10 minutes of running in fresh air before it begins to measure a true incoming air temperature. There are various air temperature sensor options; AT1, AT2 and AT3, for more information please see the links below.

Does anyone have a picture of how to wire up link g4+ storm blue? I have the link install guide. What I want is a picture that I can run my eye down the lines to the sensors like ect and tps and cam and crank ect. It's going on a 3sge beams without the electric throttle body. My Ecu only has an "A" plug. Kind regards.

The engine is a 3sge beams out of a Altezza going in a Lotus 7 style car with a Link G4+ Storm blue. It will run Naturally Aspirated and in stock form with a single mechanical throttle body. I will run all the oem stock sensors I can use that came on the engine. I also purchased a Link Can Lambda. I think the diagram below is going to help. Here are my questions I have just to confirm what I have read in the manual:

The engine has two cam angle sensors one on the intake and one on the exhaust because it has vvt on both intake and exhaust. Which cam angle sensor do i connect? Do I connect both? Do I need two? Without two how does the ecu know how advanced or retarded either cam shaft is?

When I suck on the onboard map it shows no rise and fall. I have only done this statically on the test bench with the ecu live to my laptop and without the crank trigger turning. How do i configure the software to connect to the onboard map?

I have used the Link supplies base map for the sxe10 Altezza and because I am not running Electric throttle body in the top right corner of PC Link there is an error saying the rpm has been limited to 1800rpm as there is a error concerning unmatched voltages of the throttle and the pedal. How do i configure the software to look for one single throttle body and one normal TPS to get rid of this error?

I have the whole setup in a suitcase with a battery drill spinning the trigger wheel. I will take it with me to Taupo for Christmas today. I really appreciate any of the knowledge you guys can share with me. Thanks Rex

You will need both cams and the crank connected to the ecu. All the ground wires and all the shields splice together and connect to pin A7. Crank signal gets connected to trigger 1, Intake cam signal to trigger 2, exhaust cam sensor to DI1.

My car will have a non E throttle. I am wiring up my Toyota Throttle Position Sensor. It has 4 pins on it. Where does pin 2 on the below TPS which is labeled "Idle switch signal" go? I have the 5v and tps signal and ground connected.

I have another question. I just wanted to take time to thank you for your volunteer labour. You are appreciated. Have a look at the below picture. It is a 3sge single wire knock sensor. I understand it get its ground by being screwed into the block. I understand the shield goes to the "A7" Where does the single wire go to?

The single wire Toyota sensors usually aren't very useful due to the high output voltage. I would suggest getting a two wire wideband sensor if you want knock control, although probably no need for a stock NA 3S.

Hello everyone....My wife bought me a second hand moped for my fortieth birthday, as I could use it to get about the local area and leave her with the car, it was also a thank you for me running the family home whilst she was in hospital for three months last year, anyhow she was ripped off and the bike was not useable, I got a friend of ours to look at for me and he put running the best he could.

It lasted only a little while and yesterday the whole crank seized, I have sourced a replacement engine that fits the frame, but the main four wires from the magneto are different colours to the plug on the bike, can anyone help me please and advise me on a way to work it out please?

Sorry i am new to this...it's a generic trigger sm50cc and the engine I am putting in it is from a derbi senda which is the same engine they put in the aprilla 50cc all based on the minarelli engine the colour codes are as follows

i have a link thunder ecu and i'm trying to make an engine harness for a 2jz in an r32, i have purchased the club level wiring course and am finding it quiet useful however this is my first time attempting a harness and i'm so overwhelmed by it all so rather then continue to hassle people i thought i would ask here to see if i could gain a little more knowledge, although the questions i have may have been covered in the video, for whatever reason i probably haven't picked up on them or the info just isnt sticking.

so far i have ran rope from the ecu mounting point through my engine bay and have began labeling where which branch point will come off and i have began labeling the wires on both of my fly looms, so i have made a reasonable start.

where can i find definitions of each wire on the header, i don't totally understand what most of them mean - EG which wires do i ground injectors with? are the two black earths in each header for a sensor or are they to ground the ecu to the vehicle? what is di1 and di2? i'm looking at header pinout in the help section of pclink but still not getting it.

There is a whole section of the help file on wiring. Wiring Information > Power and Ground Wiring will show you how the power supplies, grounds and various relays are done. Injectors, ignition drives and Aux outputs are covered in Wiring Information > Output Wiring. Analog inputs, digital inputs, triggers and knock is covered in Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring.

These instructions cover the Megasquirt MS3X and MS3-Pro. If instead you are installing MS1/MS2, then you want to read the MS1/MS2 wiring instructions.Now the fun stuff can begin when we actually start wiring the Megasquirt harness into the car. This is going to be the most involved section of the writeup and most of the work will take place here. Everything having to do with wiring up the Megasquirt will be covered here including the fuse box, actual Megasquirt wiring, fuel pump and wideband.As these instructions cover both MS3X and MS3-Pro, there are times when there will be some options in wiring depending on the ECU you are installing. For the most part, the connections are exactly the same except that the MS3-Pro uses more generic terms for some of its I/O. For example, the MS3X "boost" output equivalent on the MS3-Pro is "high current out 3". I will include an MS3X and MS3-Pro wiring diagram and put MS3-Pro equivalents in brackets when referring to MS3X wire names and pin numbers.Preassemble and Prepare The Megasquirt MS3/MS3-Pro HarnessesPull Spare Wires from Megasquirt HarnessesSome of the wires on the harness don't need to be run into the engine bay so you can pull them back through the split loom tubing so they exit close to the connectors at the MS3/MS3-Pro. There are a load of wires which will not be used in the installation I describe here (as it is a basic installation). Many of these wires are for the unused injector and ignition outputs, as well as the other I/O (for example: boost control). You should put some thought into what you might want to do in the future and consider leaving some of these wires in the harness so they are available in the engine bay. For example, if you have a turbo car you will probably want to leave the boost output (MS3-Pro: high current out 3) in the harness because at some point you will probably want to use the boost control feature. Since unused injector outputs can be repurposed as generic on/off outputs, you may wish for example to leave injectors G and H in the harness to control future items (A/C compressor perhaps, or blink the headlights when you go WOT). Don't forget the inputs. SpareADC (MS3-Pro: Analog in 1) can be used with 0 - 5V pressure transducer for measurement of fuel or oil pressure, for example. Or datalog the temperature of the left turn signal if you desire.I'm presenting a basic installation here to keep things straightforward. If you want to look at some of the features I've just mentioned, take a look at the MS3 hardware manual for info. For MS3-Pro, the manual is available as a PDF download from DIYAutoTune.For MS3X users from the DB37 end, pull the following wires back:DescriptionPinLocationColour (Typical)12V Power28MainboardRedGround8-9MainboardBlackGround17-19MainboardBlackO2 Sensor23MainboardPinkIgnition Output36MainboardBrownFuel Pump37MainboardPurpleFIdle30MainboardGreenGround17, 12, 8, 3, 2MS3X ExpanderBlackSpark Outputs D - H34 - 37, 18MS3X ExpanderYellowAux Inputs (D/log In, Launch In, N20 In, Tablesw In)28 - 30, 11MS3X ExpanderGreyPT4 Logic Out31MS3X ExpanderBlueAnalog Inputs (SpareADC, EGO2, EXT_MAP)21 - 23MS3X ExpanderLight BlueFlex Fuel Input5MS3X ExpanderOrangeAux Outputs (Nitrous 1, Boost, Nitrous 2, Tacho, VVT)24 - 27, 6MS3X ExpanderGreenInjectors E, F, G7, 4, 1MS3X ExpanderWhite w/stripeMS3-Pro users need to pull the following wires back to the connector ends of the harnesses.DescriptionPinLocationColour (Typical)High Current Out 1 - 31, 2, 5White Connector Injectors I, J3 - 4White ConnectorWhite w/stripeKnock In 1, 27, 31White ConnectorOrange/Red, Orange/PurpleLogic Ground16White ConnectorBlackAnalog In 1 - 319 - 21White Connector Tach Out24White Connector O2 In25White ConnectorPinkFuel Pump Relay Out28White ConnectorPurplePWM Out 2 - 329 - 30White Connector Digital Switched In32White Connector CAN L, H33 - 34White Connector 12V Switched Power In35White ConnectorRedPower Grounds3, 5, 7, 9, 18Gray ConnectorBlackInjectors E - G8, 10, 11Gray ConnectorWhite/Purple, White/Dark Green, White/BlueSpark Out D - H26, 24, 13, 14, 16Gray ConnectorYellow/Brown, Yellow/Green, Yellow/Dark Green, Yellow/Purple, Yellow/BlueDigital Frequency In 1 - 328, 17, 21Gray Connector Digital Switched In19, 20, 29Gray Connector Stepper Outputs30 - 33Gray ConnectorBlue/Red, Blue/White, Green/White, Green/RedWhat to do with the extra wires is up to you. In most cases I don't recommend cutting them out of the harness because you may want to use them later. As mentioned above, you can run a few of the extra I/O wires to the far end of your harness for future use. The ones left in the car can be coiled out of the way with their ends insulated by about an inch of heat shrink tubing. Then tucked under the ECU bracket or wherever. If you want to get fancy, you could group the unused wire according to function and then install a connector on each group so that you could make sub-harnesses if you decide to use those wires in the future.Pass Megasquirt Harness Through Stock Wire GrommetWrap up the loose ends of the Megasquirt harnesses with electrical tape and then pass it through the stock wiring grommet which used to be occupied by the EFI harness. Put the connectors through the hole in the firewall and feed the harnesses into the car. It helps to have someone else inside the car to pull on the harnesses and make sure they doesn't get hung up on stuff. When the grommet reaches the firewall, push it into hole. Feed the Megasquirt harnesses down to the Megasquirt panel but leave enough slack so you have about 12 inches of extra harness. Reconnect the stock orange connector in the passenger kick panel as well as the wiper motor connector.Run Wires In Engine BayInstead of having a rats nest of cables exiting the firewall it helps greatly to roughly position the wires near where they will eventually end up. There are three main groups of wires which connect from the ECU to the engine: injectors, sensors and coils. Additionally there is wiring for the BAC valve, electric fan and main power feed.Run the harness up along the firewall just above the lip, keeping it behind any emissions plumbing that may still be in place. Run it behind the brake booster and then down under the trailing coil (you will need to remove the coil) and finally all the way along the frame rail until it reaches the battery/leading coil area. Leave enough slack so that harness can follow the contours of its path without being stretched or pinched. There is a lot of harness if you have MS3X so don't worry about running out. MS3-Pro users have a shorter 8 foot harness which requires a bit more care in placement so you don't run out of wire at the far end (leading coil, electric fan).Now you can start pulling wires from the harness that will be used to connect to the sensor and other components. Pull the Injector A - D (white w/stripe) and thin green Idle (MS3-Pro: PWM Idle Out, green) wires out of the harness around the fuel rail area of the engine. In the same area, also pull the yellow coolant temp (CLT) sensor wire. Run a 12 gauge red wire from the injector area along the harness and fish it back into the car to terminate near the fuse box. Leave plenty of slack. This will provide 12V power to the fuel injectors. To provide a ground for the CLT, run a 16 gauge black wire from the CLT area to the harness along the firewall with a bit of slack. This will eventually tie into the sensor ground wire (black/white). Finally, a 16 gauge red wire needs to be run from inside the car up along the harness and to the BAC valve area. If you have an S4 NA, then the BAC is on the other side of the manifold (mounted to the dynamic chamber) so run those wires while you run the wires to the throttle body.The picture below shows these wires being run on a TII. This is an "in progress" picture so not everything is in place yet. It is also an MS1/MS2 installation, but you get the general idea of what has to happen with the wires even though the colours don't match.

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