Wrong All Parts

[Patrice Mieczkowski]

HelloI found that some parts of my assemblies are exported with wrong rotations. Could someone please verify this problem? Both babylon and blender files can be found here.

Link to github issue.

One thing, from a practical perspective, is that for fixed stuff like this the performance advantages of join all the meshes (ctrl-J) prior to export are significant. On the JS side, there are just few meshes to iterate thru every frame & get the world matrix of, etc. On the GPU side, meshes which are joined that have the same material are done in a single draw call.

The exported STEP opens correctly in Autodesk online Viewer for STEP, but in Solidworks some of the parts are messed up - some of the parts are replaced by parts which have same SOLID-*.step names in a sub-assembly. So for example the first level subassembly has a correct part name - like R_0603-1608Metric.step, but the part in that subassembly is called SOLID-4.step, which is in Solidworks rendered the same as a SOLID-4.step from a completely different subassembly - like PinHeader_1x04_P2.54mm_Vertical.step

I think renaming the SOLID-*.step parts to something unique to that specific part would fix this issue for Solidworks. This is not an issue creating assembly from two different KiCAD exported boards, but within one STEP exported board from KiCAD.

Someone reported Clear getting overcured with latest firmware, i believe, but getting an overcure of 1mm would be crazy. And obliterate all detail on the object. Besides the dimensions being off, did you notice any other artifacts?

Orientation of the part can cause dimensional inaccuracy. If you import, say, a cube, in PreForm and rotate 20 degrees X and Y and then 45 degrees Z, and then generate default supports, you may see a slight variation in size toward the corner facing up and away from the build plate.

I think this is due to lack of supports on that far corner. Supports are only added in PreForm to ensure the part will peel correctly and is connected to the build plate, but they also have a side effect of holding things in place.

If you are building with supports and your part has areas that are unsupported but still safe to print (e.g., because the area is within tolerances for maximum overhang angle), it might be worth trying a print with supports added manually (I think what this is doing is helping to keep the layer in place during the peel).

Finally got somewhere.

On 1 machine we downgraded the firmware to 1.15.4, went back to an older Preform as well, and it is the correct size.

On the other 2 printers, the 2 latest firmware versions, and printing the wrong size.

Print speedups in recent PreForm versions did seem to be causing issues for some users. Can you try the latest PreForm version (2.15.0) and the latest firmware version to see if that corrects this? Both are available on the release notes page.

Any way to keep the old settings? Everything was working great for me; I use the default support settings, etc., and never had a problem. And I liked having my prints run 25% faster. Am I now the one who has to refuse to upgrade?

Either the X-Axis Lead Nut (Bag 31) or the X-Axis Lead Nut mount is not the correct part for this machine. The X-Axis Lead Nut mount has 4 holes. Measuring two holes diagonally is about 2 1/8". The X-Axis Lead Nut has two holes, which measure 2 3/8". It appears, from looking at the assembly photos from both machines, that the X-Axis Lead Nut mount that I received was actually for the Crossfire, not the Crossfire Pro.

Note: langmuir-reilly. I have purchased other CNC machines (X-Carve, Shapoko, etc), 3D Printer kits (back in the day), etc. and the bags of parts have printed labels adhered to the bags. Perhaps waterproof oil-resistant labels, purchased pre-printed by the roll, would be the way to go. I was able to guess what parts I needed for what tasks through the process of elimination, but I am also a mechanical technician. Someone who has never built something like this would have surely been more than mildly annoyed. I do appreciate your very prompt back and forth emails to resolve this issue with me, though.

I realized the issue on the 24th, but with Christmas I waited until the 26th to email them and post to the forum. After some emailing back and forth the issue was resolved quickly. The parts were picked up by USPS later that same day. The parts have moved from NY to ME and are currently a few towns away and should be here tomorrow so that I can finish assembly.

This will be a bit of a delicate task but this is how I would approach it. You need to release the z-carriage that floats up and down. the rod on the left is held in place by two set screws. Once loosened, gently twist the rod to free is up and it will be able to be slid out.

Once the carriage is free, you will be able to easily reattach the wire. I would suggest a drop of blue loctite on the machine screw to resist it becoming loose again. Angle the electrical connector so the heat shrink collar is pointing upward at about a 45 degree angle so it avoids the limit switch (that is how I bumped mine loose - hitting the limit switch).

Edit: If you need to use force on that rod, take care not to scar any part of the rod where the roller bearing might contact. The very top would be a safe area to use a small channel lock pliers to twist the rod. If you do end up scarring it, be sure to smooth it out before reassembly.

Edit2: If you find that rod to not move easily, you may need to abandon that method and do what I did: removed the top left roller bearing completely. Loosen the lower left roller bearing to the point that the bolt is about to fall out. It is the same amount of tediousness to put it back together but getting the bolt lined up on the roller bearing was a little challenging. I suppose the foam blocks would help.

I bought 2 shocks for 89.00 got the wrong part, returned part and was only refunded 23.00 they charged 66.00 for shipping highway robbery I would have kept the wrong shocks and resold them myself rather than loosing 66.00 for nothing very disappointed that there is not a basic return fee to let you know how bad the sellers mistake is in the description. So its a win win for a sellar because they are going to make the money even if the sell ,box wrong or just send the wrong part because they dont have the rite one it s easy money but very wrong.I believe I will have to start taking my purchases elsewhere to avoid this,its not like i lost 10 dollars I lost 3/4 of the whole purchase very disgusted after 190 purchases through EBAY.

I studied the ad after he sent his reply of (Well of course they don't fit the ad clearly states for RWD rear wheel drive ) to which I replied it is a 2003 dodge 2500 truck which all are rear wheel drive. My truck is a 4 wheel Drive which was not in the ad ,Returned both shocks and still lost 66 dollars.

I share your frustration. my tolerance has also come to an end now.

A certain wife has now supplied me wrong items on more than four hundred occasions, I was willing to give a bit of leeway initially but not anymore.

I am always very specific in mentioning the exact particulars of what I want before requesting anything, but despite this, over last thirty two years have been handed: wrong meal, wrong clothing, wrong drink & wrong tool. It is always the same woman and so I see it as a basic 'not listening' issue that is unfortunately widespread (according to my friends), because to listen properly just takes that little bit more effort that the lazy wives won't do. Pre marriage training needs to shift its focus. I will say they are always apologetic but no point apologising if you are not interested in changing your ways.

Looking to taking my loving elsewhere now. Still looking.

Yes that can happen, The numpty at the factory puts the wrong part in the wrong bag, and all the numbers line up but it doesn't fit.I saw a lot of that over the years. In the late 70s a dealership I was working at had an issue with rebuilt V8 performance engines grenading. It turned out that the bearing shell and the number for the bearing shell had nothing to do with each other. Shells of 5,10,15 and 20 thou over, each had a separate number. It was a lottery as to weather or not the shell and the number matched.The issue was eventually solved by an old school mechanic who measured EVERYTHING, before it went into the rebuild he was doing. He copped some shit for that too.A day later he was down in Spare Parts measuring EVERYTHING again. This time he found the problem.

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