Iuse raw wick for a few different reasons. I first bought zinc and htp raw for use with gel candles. For other wick types, I've also purchased it raw as I like to use wick tabs with longer stems and I don't have as much waste, i.e., can cut more to size needed.
I've only seen raw wicking used for pillars. Maybe others use them but I am guessing most people use primed wicks. When I first started making candles I primed the wicks myself. Now I buy them primed so I have one less headache to worry about. However, the type of wax used to prime your wick can make a difference.
Priming your own wicks gives you the advantage of using the wax of your choice to coat the wick. This can effect the stability of the wick, the temperature of the wick burn, and also the candle burn. It can also give you a proprietary wick system if you prime and tab your own wicks. Some suppliers will also do this for you; let you choose your priming wax and wick tabs and assemble them for you.
I used to prime my raw wicking for my pillars, until I decided to do a couple tests with primed vs unprimed and there was literally absolutely no difference in the burn at all, so I eliminated that step altogether and now use raw wicking for my pillars.
I WISH I could find raw CD wicking, because the longest I've been able to find is 6" and my palm pillars that use a CD wick I always have to either short wick, or short pour to be able to use that wick. So if anyone knows of anywhere that sells raw CD wicks, I would love to have that resource.
I know that Andrew tries to enter his ORB based on the body of the 5 min candle and not the extremes of the candle wick. This seems logical to me based on the fact that this is where the candle has closed. That being said, I know of another successful trader who enters his ORB's based on the end of the candle wick, sometimes resulting in somewhat overextended entries but possibly more confirmed ones?
I think you said it yourself, there are different ways of trading, none is better than the other. If you think about it, trade ideas scanner calls out for orbs after they break above the wicks, most of us here including Andrew take it after the break of the body(cuz it's the place where the candle closed as you mentioned, and as you said, getting in after the break of the wick can be so far, bigger room for stop, less size, and more difficult to get to the target.
In my own opinion, ORBs are more difficult than they look like, it sounds easy to trade them, take the break of the 5 min, 1 min, 2 min, or whatever time frame you wanna take, but it's not that easy, you've to analyze the price action, the power of sellers and buyers, and have a bit of bias according to premarket action or the ma's/daily levels below, above, or from which the price action bounces
The best for me is to see an abcd on the 1 when taking 5 min orb, abcd on 5 when taking 15 min orb, or seeing the price action holding some kind of ma and according to it take the orb with stop below that ma, basically it comes up to an ORB, but with a mini setup. Not to forget the main rules for an ORB which are small body candle, small wicks, closer to vwap
So bascially, if the setup on the 1 (abcd) is completed, and the C is visible, new 1 min high is the break of the body of the 5 I'll take it to the long for the break of the body. If the mini setup is completed with a perfect entry but above the wick of the 5, then I'll take an ORB when it breaks the wicks, it all depends on the indicators we've, what they're telling us, and the bigger picture we see after combining the small details!
My small jar has a diameter of 47mm and height of 62mm, and I am currently using a wood wick with the measurement of width 0.375" (9.5mm), and I trim my wick to around 1mm - 3mm above the wax which allows it to pick up the flame easily, because I realized if I dont trim it short enough the candle cant be lit at all.
The test I did today, my wick was about 1mm-2mm above the wax, and while the flame isnt as strong as some of my other tests, it still kept burning, but half way through as I saw the flame getting weaker, I thought I would trim it to see if that helps the candle to burn better, but it didnt. The flame went extremely weak. Should I not have done so?
I use 464, and I know wood wick would be the best wick for 464 if I can make it stay lit. But, some wood wick will perform excellent while many other same size & model wood wick just want stay lit at all.
sometimes the FO clogs some of the wood types more than others. The pale colored smooth wicks did better in some fragrance and essential oils. Sometimes the dark wood type was better. They are of different wood types and likely different chemical treatments also. Sometimes I need to mix a crackly with a smooth to get things rolling. Smaller jars are more difficult than bigger to combine.
Wooden wicks are wooden wicks..... nothing you can do about it. I spent an entire year staring at wooden wick flames burning, trying to get SOMETHING to burn completely consistent with these Wooden Wick Co types and there was nothing after testing 7 waxes. Even if you got a good batch of wicks then the next time you'd order them they could be completely off. The slightest variance of thickness from their Sunshinee QC determines if your candle will fizzle to nothing when you light it, or flare up to oblivion.
Priming them in wax does help some for when you first light it, but the way the wick burns is not the same after burning it a couple times, which again throws the whole consistency out the window. I miss the old wicks...
Thanks for this! do you know any other companies that supply wood wicks? I mean so many other candle places do wood wicks so I suppose there must be other ones we can try other than woode wick co. Also This is only happening to my small candles, my big jars seem to work perfectly fine so ya....
Thanks for the assistance, I primed my tonight one worked and one didnt, so what I did was putting the wicks into the oven to 'dry' them and then coated them. Dont know if this works? Are there any other suppliers for wood wicks that you can recommend?
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