Filius Download Windows 10
Priamo Gregory
One year later, I replaced the 1.5TB had drives with brand new Western Digital RED WD30EFRX 3To hard drives, keeping the same array data, using the XRAID option to automatically expand the array size, which was 2.7To, and working perfectly well (70-100MB transfer speed, depending solely on which switch is used.)
The available space shrank dramatically recently, so I bought two brand new Seagate IronWolf 8 TB, ST8000VN0022 hard drives, tested it on windows (and speed was greater than 100MB/s on both drives). So I changed one drive, waited for resync, changed another drive, waited for resync and expand, and voila, 7.2TB available.
Last chance, destroying the array and rebuild a brand new one, which is possible since the WD 3TB hard drives are readable on Linux, but will be extremely long and painful to transfer all the data from the old drive to the new ones. And the speed may stay at 40MB/s...
A RN102 NAS is the entry level NAS. I am actually surprised that you got 70MB/s + speed before. I had one a while ago for testing various things but I would typically be in the range of 30-50MB/s and that was with a 2TB RAID 1.
Expanding the volume size to 8TB is going to take more processing for the single core ARM CPU and 500MB of ram, housed in the NAS. It is not really unexpected that the speeds are going to drop as a result.
Perhaps it is time to upgrade NAS since it seems your data needs have increased? I reckon that if you monitor the NAS via top command (or similar) while transferring data you will probably see the unit being flat out.
FWIW, with my own RN102 I was seeing 70 MB/s read speeds after the reset. I was using it as a backup NAS - configured as jbod with 6 TB and 8 TB disks. That was a few years back though, and the memory footprint of the current firmware is bigger now than it was back then.
I decided to benchmark my own RN102, and I discovered that my speed depends on the SMB protocol version. I tweaked the the max protocol with SMBPlus, and tested the results with NasTester 1.7. The measured read speeds are:
The RN102 is running 6.9.5, and the volume is XRAID (two 1 TB Ironwolf disks). Bit-Rot protection (CoW) is off on the share; Volume Quota is enabled. Strict sync is disabled, and SMB 3 transport encryption is set to "enabled". Antivirus is off. SMBPlus is the only app running on the NAS.
I used the unit solely as a dedicated storage with no apps or whatsoever, I didn't know there is some tweaks available. So, before destroying the array, I did some test by tweaking SMB daemon with SMBPlus, but it didn't goes well: still 35-40MB/s
I tried to write the same 36GB file from a linux computer, through NFS, and like @Retired_Member said, this is bad: it spawns a lot of nfsd daemons, and the ARM single core can't cope: the speed is below 40MB/s
But I tried the windows 10 computer hooked on the switch 2, and still got 52-55MB/s with a 70% system CPU Usage. I check SMBPlus and the setup was 2.0 minimum and 2.1 maximum, like I setup before destroying the array. On linux, the mount is set on version 2.1.
Since the linux computer have a windows 10 system as well, I rebooted on windows 10 on this computer, and try to read the 36GB file: I got the EXACT same speed, with a 70% system CPU Usage. It looks like the way Windows 10 read the file on the NAS put a lot of system stress on it. There is something I don't understand on the way Windows 10 read the file on the NAS.
But, I need to have a RAID 1 NAS as soon as possible, so, having sorting speeds out, I have some data to compare between JBOD mode and RAID1 mode, let's try it! I will dig up the Windows 10 read performance later.
I created a new RAID 1 array, it is resyncing right now and it may take a while, since mdstat stats a 100MB/s speed, lead to a 22 hours syncing time at current speed. But speed usually plummets as it goes near the end of the disk.
Although I planned to disable NFS server, I found out that you can set the number of nfsd forks. On a single core ARM CPU, the default number (8) of forks seems utterly stupid, so I changed this value to 1.
I'm quite surprised by this. CIFS Write speeds are the same on both OS - and top shows similar CPU usage - but read speeds are really different, and CPU usage shows differences as well. When a Windows 10 reads a file, there is no CPU idle (using my old linux computer shows CPU idle), CPU sys and CPU si is very high (usually 70-30)
The beauty and message of the ten large windows on the north and south sides of the nave have been part of the ministry of the congregation since the present church was built in 1889. The images in the windows depict a variety of theological statements from sacraments to symbols of faith to statements of how we understand God.
Use the custom actions based on scripts or batch files. Silent install builder supports windows batch files (bat, cmd), windows scripts (vbs, js), and Powershell (ps1). Include directories with dependency files.
Sťov simultor Filius je OSS multiplatformn Java aplikace dostupn pod svobodnou licencGPLv2 nebo GPLv3. Simultor je nainstalovan na počtačovch učebnch, kde probh vuka kurzu, aktulně použvan verze je tak nahran na projektovm disku v adresři /PROJEKTY/4IZ110/PODKLADY/filius/ .
I think the best part of the filius blue is the plant itself. It is extremely compact, growing about 6 inches tall and about 8 inches wide in a terra cotta pot. The leaves are a lovely green with a purple tinge on the edges and purple veining. The flowers are white and purple. And the peppers themselves are very small, medium/dark purple and ripening to a bright red. Unlike the Chinese 5 Color, these peppers start out purple, turn a little orange and then directly ripen to red. And the peppers are abundant. I threw them into tacos (it should be mentioned that they lost any traces of heat after being cooked) and into fresh salsa.
Storage of Seeds:
Store seeds away from children, sealed in their packaging in a cool, dry, dark place, or in a fridge. Never store them in a freezer as the sudden temperature drop is likely to kill them. Don't leave the seeds in direct sunlight as the heat generated may kill them.
Sowing: Sow from mid February to mid July
Fill small cells or trays with a good sterile seed compost and sow the seeds on the surface. Just cover with a fine sprinkling (3mm) of soil or vermiculite. Keep the compost moist, don't let the top of the compost dry out (a common cause of germination failure) If you wish, spray the surface with a dilute copper-based fungicide.
Cover the pot or tray with plastic film or place in a heated propagator, south facing window or a warm greenhouse. The ideal temperature is around 18 to 20C (65 to 72F)
Transplanting:
When the seedlings have produced their first pair of true leaves they can be potted on into individual 7-10cm (3-4in) pots. Use good quality potting compost and mix in some organic slow release fertiliser. Pot the chilli on again before it becomes root-bound.
Water the seedlings regularly, but don't let them become waterlogged as this encourages rot. Don't let them dry out as they rarely recover at this stage. Water the soil, not the foliage. Once the plants have established, it is better to water heavy and infrequently, allow the top inch or so to dry out in between watering.
Seedlings should be grown in good light, but should not be exposed to direct sunlight from late spring to early autumn. Weaker sunlight from autumn to spring is unlikely to do them harm. Once seedlings have put on some growth they need lots of light. Growing them under a grow-light produces excellent stocky plants, as will a warm sunny windowsill. Adult chilli plants need lots of light. However, more than 4 hours or so in hot direct sunlight will dry them out quickly.
Acclimatise to outdoor conditions for 2 to 3 weeks before they are moved permanently outside. Plant them into rich moist soil. Flower do not form and fruit will not set if the temperature is much below 17C (62F) for most of the day, so wait until June/July for best results with outdoor planting.
Pollinating Flowers: (optional)
Chilli plants are self fertile and will generally pollinate themselves. However, if you want to give them a helping hand to ensure that lots of fruit are set indoors, use a cotton wool bud to gently sweep the inside of the flowers, spreading the pollen as you go. The flower's petals will drop off as the green middle part of the flower starts to swell slightly. This is the chilli pepper beginning to grow.
Harvesting:
Chillies will take a few weeks to develop and a further couple weeks to turn from green to red. You may pick them off the plant any time after they are fully developed but the longer you leave them on the hotter they will become. Do not leave them on for too long, as delaying after the chili is ready for harvest will result in a decline of further yields.
Storage:
After picking, if you aren't going to eat them fresh, dry the peppers by putting them into a mesh bag, hang the bag up in a dry, airy, but not sunny spot. When they are completely dry, you can make paprika by grinding the peppers. Don't grind the stalks. You can regulate the spiciness of the result by including more or less of the seeds and veins.
Etymology:
Chilli terminology is confusing; pepper, chili, chile, chilli, Aji, paprika and Capsicum are used interchangeably for chilli pepper plants in the genus Capsicum.
The word Capsicum comes from the Greek kapto, meaning 'to bite' (a reference to pungency or heat). In Mexico a Capsicum is called a Chile pepper, while Chile enthusiasts around the World often use the spelling Chile or Chili.